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Oil clearances should all be on the build sheet, i never put a motor together without and doing every single measurement even though it can take a while and making sure the client gets the copy of it, it helps prevent this kind of mistake. Sounding more and more like the bearing shells arent sized c...

Get them blasted with dry ice, no grit or residues to remove, then a good degrease with a suitable panel wipe, couple of cycles in an oven at 400f to degas the alloy ( allowing to cool and degrease again in between) and clear powder coat to keep them pristine.

Peter Gidden - SBITS wrote:Correct, 55mm

Thanks Peter!

Just measured the one sitting on the bench, ct26 off a 3sgte and got:

54mm outside diameter along the majority of the exit, beading at 55.60mm O/D and inside diameter is 45mm.
Hows that look?

Whats the engine build sheet say regarding the mains and big end oil clearances?
If it wont turn over at all, then that indicates it could be due to a tight bearing possibly.

Its always politic to dress the oil holes with a radius to prevent a crack like that from propogating, sharp edges are always stress raisers, couple that with the undamped assembly and youve got what you have there.
Gone like a good un too.

This is my current classic. 1983 Audi quattro turbo. http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/audiquattro/851153a2.jpg Original engine was pretty much shot to bits so i sourced a 20 valve turbo motor as a replacement. Thats now lodged in the engine bay whilst i rewire the vehicle harness to accept...

mark239 wrote:60 lb/ft

And only applies when using their assembly lube.

Jon Sole iirc, he made some inroads into it.

Thats gotta be some kind of rust record?
never seen a set of discs go so badly down the middle like before.

Just rest the gearbox on a trolley jack and let it take the strain while you get it located into position, always a possibility of dislodging the car from the stands if youre too violent trying to get it one the splines so be a bit careful.

Base it on a known good specification id say, at least you stand a good chance of achieving what you want rather than trying to guesstimate it.

Ive met Nathan, can also say he's a nice guy and knows his way around a two.

Had a similar fault on the corolla.

Started fine, drove to the destination, went back to the car -click then nothing.
Turns out the battery had failed (was a genuine toyota item) and could only get a minor voltage reading out of it, replaced it, no more problem.

bobhatton wrote:I hope you are all opening up the throats and cutting back the valve seats when you fit the bigger valves.

Not to mention fitting larger valve seat inserts as just boring thru them (seen that before) can make them crack if theyre too thin.
Lots of work.

You should consult the cam manufacturer for the correct spring poundage rate for that specific cam and use rev 3 followers. As above. Minimum spring rate to control the valve under its operating conditions is whats required. Excessive rates means valvetrain wear and parasitic losses ( drag) which l...

Possibly the rad cap. Toyota rad caps have two functions, one is to actually seal the system from atmosphere, the other is a pressure cap inside the rad cap to vent off expanding coolant to the bottle which gets sucked back in when cold. If the rad cap isnt leaking but its boiling up it means that ...

Possibly the rad cap. Toyota rad caps have two functions, one is to actually seal the system from atmosphere, the other is a pressure cap inside the rad cap to vent off expanding coolant to the bottle which gets sucked back in when cold. If the rad cap isnt leaking but its boiling up it means that t...

Gotya.

Why are you running different plug types and brands together??