www.imoc.co.uk

If they came up at the right price I would get a set. 100 quid is a lot to pay for window shades. I can't see them getting any Kudos from anyone but MR2 owners.

Is 100 quid a bit steep for these?

Did bridging out the sensor points remove the code 54?

I haven't looked into this but I presume bridging the sensor line to earth would produce the same effect, no?

If you cannot take it back for some reason just start by checking all of the ecu connections. Then go on to the sensors (IAT/MAF/O2 sensor). If they were spliced into the loom then check them over too.

jimGTS wrote:by default the butterflies are OPEN if not plugged in or working which they wont be on a rev3 ecu.

certainly wont have half of them closed!

This is what I am led to believe also.

If it was me I'd adjust the idle on the throttle body (screw), see if that makes a difference. Make the idle higher?

bolton wrote:What without abs? Lol!
If i go over a bump while braking it triggers! Its rubbish!

I get this!

To be honest I never thought it might be the abs. I'm going to disconnect it next time I go for a drive jut to confirm whether it is the ABS or not.

It's a rough quote which for the work looks fair. As mentioned you will need tuning and a stand alone ecu to go with it all. Add another 1200 perhaps minimum.

I am after a water/meth injection kit for my Gen 3 converted 3sgte. Stock ecu.

What percentage of water/meth would those of you with experience of these kits recommend? 50/50 seems like a popular choice.

What sort of timing advance could be used (roughly) with this setup?

Cheers guys!

It's not the kit or the wheels. Everyone to their own!

It's the fact that it's a fri88ing NON TURBO slow as a turd leaving a snail.

Yeah, red.

I paid particular attention to a red 3 series Beemer earlier. It is a cool colour.

Strange, I take it you are not losing any water? I am no mechanic but maybe check for exhaust leaks (around the turbo aswell) along with vac leaks around that area. Just to throw an idea out there, it could be the turbo spinning down and as the engine is off, the leaks are more audible. Vac or exhau...

Looks good. Its funny seeing only 100 hp at 3000RPM (but almost 200lbft torque!!!).

Before I converted to a Rev 3 ecu etc, I ran 1.1 bar on the same setup as you. The car pulled well. Maybe worth a try. You should be at 290+/- at those boost levels I would have thought.

Loque wrote:The T-Top is not all it's cracked up to be, even in the sun...

AWESOME in the sun. With a good wax and the roof off the car get looks even from the most privileged amongst us (in prime Cotswold pompous areas).

Kids love it. They always thinks its a Ferrari.

From what I gather, top feed distribute the fuel more evenly than side feed.

Yes it's the Rev 1/2 loom.

I spliced the wires at the ecu. I just poked the wires into the ecu ports and connected where needed to test. Made good later. You can solder or use crimps.

Al-sw20 wrote:Retard the exhaust cam 6 degrees.

Water/meth injection.

Power FC.

Maybe 1.3 bar.

320rwhp possible with a reasonable increase in torque.

What do you gain by retarding the exhaust cam? I keep reading it aids spool time. Would you lose any power throughout the rev range?

I have completed this conversion. Let me know if you have any questions.

Parts swapped on my car:

Rev 3 ecu,
540cc injectors,
Intake Air temperature sensor,
Manifold Air Flow sensor,
Manifold Air Pressure sensor,
4 wire O2 sensor,
Rev 3 Ignitor,

Optional parts from rev 3:

CT20b turbo,
Rev 3 Cams,

If you want to keep it simple, get a CT20b fitted. Much better boosting to redline (night and day from the CT26).

There is also the CT27 upgrade. Similar power levels to the CT20b.

I have just ripped out a fuel rail from a Celica 7afe engine. Does anyone know what size top feed injectors it takes?