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could it be the slave cylinder seizing up?

djpkins wrote:no...it's an old way of doing things and not too safe..better to get a mappable ecu,

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/Tuning.htm

worth a read.

not very consistant are they, will look at an mappable ecu

OK, staying away from them

any loud whooshing noises?

is there absolutly no boost whatsoever? maybe stupid but is actuator connected up? (past experience I have done this )

yeah I know what you mean, I do all the bits myself aswell unless its engine related, garages are total rip off in my opinion, I like the satisfaction of doing it myself.

good luck mate

I get you

ah right dont know then, something makes a noise like a bearing when mine isnt pressed anyway, goes away when pressed

anyone using a fuel computer, apexi neo or simular to reduce the AFR's on their turbo's ? I know the standard ECU runs very rich on my rev 3, a recent dyno shown low 10s on a run. the question is what kind of power can be had from trimming the fuel map down to a leaner mixture? is it worth it? I thi...

everyday is a school day

gear changes being a bit notchy could be the linkage bushes, quite common on these cars, can get a uprated kit from GTSchris which replaces the rubber for brass, also brings a much firmer feel to them. my clutch release bearing makes a noise but only when the clutch isn't pressed.... don't know what...

ah shame that mate, shouldn't be too expensive to fix, too much of a coincidence that the turbo went pop after you brought it though, any idea what caused it?

thought all 02 sensors were narrowband?

just going by what is says in workshop manual for 0-5v

found an interesting link the other day on differences between rev 1 2 and 3 http://www.mr2turbo.info/diff.html should help with the differences and whats involved in a conversion i think it would be more cost effective buying a rev 3 engine unless you have mechanical skill, the labour involved in a...

just to add as mine was stuck in the rich position the car was extremely hard to start and spluttered quite a lot, much like your symptom above

was the lamda sensor you replaced a genuine part? I replaced mine the other week with a non genuine one and it was faulty showing, done a reading via the diagnostic port and it shown that it was constantly giving a rich reading regardless of engine speed or temperature. might be worth a shot (genuin...

yeah it will be definitly be put back on the dyno :thumleft: with it being none interference and all that i wouldnt have thought i would have damaged anthing either cant get it lined up again correctly, done it three times and still got it a tooth out, going to bash at it again tomorrow now what you...

tooth out on crank, both camshafts are correct, could any damage have been caused? probably been like it since came in country.

see curve easier on this one

we swapping cars then ?

bet you cant make full hp at red line like me haha

gunna make sure cam + ign timing is correct, if they are gunna replace knock sensor unless any other ideas?

If the knock sensor had stopped working you would get an error code flash up on the dash when you bridge E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic port - see here: http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49912 Certainly worth checking the error codes stored in the ECU anyway :thumleft: just seen a strange ...