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I haven't checked up on the forum for a while but when I do I love these projects. I sold my MK1 last summer for something that feels a little more solid and comfortable and got a 94' GT4... I had a lot of niggly issues with my MK1 when I bought it as it was basically the first car I'd ever bought, ...

Definitely isn't a 1998 though ey?

I had a pair of those put on my MK1 in 08'... fit pretty well and still going strong. I'd say they were good for the money!

Look awesome!! Is it likely that if you park anywhere near a tree the scoop might let a whole lot of leaves down nito the back of those fans? Not a prob I imagine as soon as you start moving, they'll probably get blown out, otherwise they might get a big clogged up? Maybe a bit of mesh in the gap? J...

I'm just at the end of my time as an apprentice fabricator/welder for a structural steel company :D MiG welding (AKA 'spark and splat') is the easiest form of welding to pick up, but as someone else said, it takes a long time to perfect. I mostly work with 6mm+ thickness, anything up to 15fw on 65mm...

Thought I'd post in this as it's a similar issue by the sounds of it. I've got a fair bit of oil around the bottom of the sump, and there has always been a bit coming from the bottom of the dizzy. I don't have any blue smoke under load but when I do accelerate hard up to high revs, there is a fairly...

Might be too obvious, but I had something similar which turned out to be one of the anti-roll bar brackets on the front had rusted through in the centre and the bar was moving about a bit too freely over bumps and around corners... £3 for a new one and an easy swap over

Quick question, I noticed someone said a Rover 216 Honda engined alternator will fit... this one I've spotted on ebay is a reasonable price but doesn't say what engine it's using, looks the same though. Can anyone confirm this alternator will be alright to go on my N/A? bearing in mine has started m...

It's most of the things you've said that have made me keep it so far. I bought it with the intention of it being a project and gradual restoration, it needed some bits here and there done and it's ended up having a hell of a lot more; stainless exhaust, all new calipers, discs and pads, throttle cab...

Been in the same thought process for a while now but I'm leaning more towards the giving up and buying another one now. Any thoughts of how I can get this lot done... thinking the total cost will be better spent on a replacement! Things to do - front A-post NS and OS need grinding down, welding plat...

Decided it might be worth changing the gearbox oil as this MIGHT help with some of the minor gear change issues which are occasionally far from smooth (usually into 3rd, and pulling out of 3rd when going up through gears fast), I'm assuming it's the synchro thats worn but I'm saving that for the sum...

Yeah if you could take a piccy that would be great, no rush though it's on the cards for the summer atm! Just thinking of ways to bring the price of what I need doing to it down. Best way would be to do it all myself idealy, but with no experience messing with bodywork fitting I might make a horribl...

Just ordered one of the Honeybourne wings (FG), will report back on fitment/quality. :mrgreen: Was tempted by those, what was the final price? £56 + post but I may collect if I'm in the area. What was the fitment and quality like in the end, considering getting a a couple myself... dang ye rust! Ap...

Watching this one with interest, my 5th gear only has about 5-10mm of 'nod' at the moment so wont need dealing with immediately, but I think my synchro is worn as sometimes changing into 1st or 3rd takes a bit of a push... then again it might just be linkages, I'm yet to check there. When I get roun...

Ok that's interesting, as you say, it sounds like a normal occurrence, just that mine seems to be kicking in with my foot on the pedal when it shouldn't, though I have one question... what is the OP and how do I adjust the IDL switch? :roll: And just to clarify as no matter how many times I re-read ...

i even tried removing all of the t-bar hardware, replacing all of those clips and siliconing the new ones in, siliconing all the base plates back in place, and just completely overhauling the whole sealing system. with eccentric t-bar guides as well. and it still drips like a tap!! the only problem...

The bounce can be induced simply by having a stuck open waxstat and plenty of coolant in the system.The bounce is caused by the ECU seeing a shut IDL but the MAP sensor tells it throttle is being applied.... now on a cold engine it ignores the auxilliary bypass air, which is normal, but the ECU doe...

Also, with a trained ear you can hear a healthy mk1 MR2 hit fuel cut if you blip the throttle and let the engine resettle. The revs shoot up to about 3000rpm and once you lift off the throttle you can hear the engine revs drop 'quickly' with no combustion noise and you can hear the engine firing th...

Ok I've just discovered a new confusing issue with my engine to keep me on the learning curve. I just had a play and the problem seems to be; if I slowly rev the engine up as soon as I reach 1650rpm it suddenly drops to normal idle then bounces back up if I keep my foot in the same position, then hi...

Thought i'd stick my own problem I've just noticed in this thread as well :) I've noticed the past few weeks that when starting the car from cold in the morning and after work, the voltage meter on the dash is getting a little higher every few days, and today it looked around 16v. I just checked it ...