Restoration .....56k Beware NEW PICS

[SuperRedMR2]

Looks gorgeous mate! I like red cars again now!

How much was your respray if you dont mind me asking?

[coverco]

Looks gorgeous mate! I like red cars again now!

How much was your respray if you dont mind me asking?

Front end was £300, back end was £450 but that included the supply and painting of the marmite scoop

[SuperRedMR2]

xxxx me thats good!

[coverco]

But I had to do all the welding, I stripped everything off (right down to the door handles) and had to put it all back together. Most resprays are more expensive because all that work takes a lot of time and time is money

The people who did the back end are cheap though, they did another IMOC members rear arches recently and charged £150 per side to fit the repair panels and paint the rear quarters now that is cheap, panels are £200ish so £500 all in for both arches replacing and painting. I have not seen the car since it was done but I will try and get the person who owns it to post

[firstmk1]

Some good work there, Tommy. Now you can get to work on the engine.

[coverco]

Some good work there, Tommy. Now you can get to work on the engine.

Speaking of engines Ian, is yours done yet?

[firstmk1]

The engine is rebuild but still lives closer to you than my car.

[coverco]

The engine is rebuild but still lives closer to you than my car.

This must be the longest engine change in history

When is Peter going to fit it? and is my old engine still running in your car?

[Booster]

A fantastic resto. Well done!

[Sharpfish]

Great job, i'm jealous of the result - looks stunning!

Can you tell me which MIG you bought. I was looking at the 151 clarke until I realised it needed a power pack and didn't work from the mains. The best I can see that works from the mains is the 110E 100 amp mig. I know it's more than enough for panels like the bodywork/arches but is it powerful enough for CHASSIS work? (Floor pan metal and sills)

Obv i've done my own research at sites like this:

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=661

but any tips are always useful. As I will be welding outside mainly but don't want to use gas(use)less what kind of problems occur if the wind picks up? and how best to shield from the wind?

and for reference does anyone know the actual metal thickness of the different metals needing repair on mk1s? bodywork metal, sills, floorpan, inner arch/chassis/structural etc? I read somewhere than DIY migs often don't weld what they say they can (ie a 5mm can only do 3mm for example, though this can be helped with a V cut and root join but not always practicle in hard to reach areas under the car).

I'm glad to say my top windscreen area wasn't even half as bad as yours was and was solid but had rust/bubbling paint (Now fixed but needs proper painting instead of my rubbish temporary job) and i've still yet to fit a windscreen (got to find the # for the kit from toyota with the gasket/sponge and clips etc).

Did you rust proof all those inner arch panels before putting the top quarter/wing panel on or did you squirt waxoyl down afterwards just so I know which is the best way to do it - i've got a few pots of eastwoods rust encapsulator (similar to por15 dunno if it's as good but it does have good reviews).

thanks in advance for any info and well done on the car.. another mk1 saved!

[bburn13]

Ahhhh -You decided to put the Tubby seats in too. Nice

You should stick your leather ones on ebay.
I got £165 for mine and they weren`t quite as nice as yours.

If you need a set of seats for your other mk1.
My SC seats are in the back yard doing nothing.
Free to you Tommy.
Would give me an excuse to come and see you again

Dave

[Sharpfish]

Rear quarters and rear screen are tinted, side windows are not, I am not going to replace the rubbing strips, I don't think it needs it, but that is just my opinion

Did you tint these yourself? I've got a spare rear window I've been wanting to test tint for years but heard bad stuff about self tint - though it's a fairly easy/flat piece of glass... I also want a silver 'SuperCharger' logo to sit centrally under the tint before I do it, which may end up looking completely horrible (only a small logo mind).

Any tips on the tint if you did it yourself and the quality of results? I take it it wasn't that cheap/nasty foliatec/boy racer stuff you can get?

BTW I agree with you about the side strips. I think it looks cleaner and more modern without them so it's a shame to go and stick them back on again after you've paid for a respray (IMO!)

[coverco]

Ahhhh -You decided to put the Tubby seats in too. Nice

You should stick your leather ones on ebay.
I got £165 for mine and they weren`t quite as nice as yours.

If you need a set of seats for your other mk1.
My SC seats are in the back yard doing nothing.
Free to you Tommy.
Would give me an excuse to come and see you again

Dave

I was hoping to sell my leathers on here, I thought someone might swap their seats plus £100 for mine, but it seems no one wants them

I will probably stick them on Ebay then and if the offer is still open have your old charger seats (I assume they are black?)

The Tubby seats were actually dead easy to fit, the rails are the same distance apart on MK1 and MK2 seats, so I took the runners out of my old blue pair and they just slide in, they really are so much more comfortable than MK1 seats

[coverco]

Rear quarters and rear screen are tinted, side windows are not, I am not going to replace the rubbing strips, I don't think it needs it, but that is just my opinion

Did you tint these yourself? I've got a spare rear window I've been wanting to test tint for years but heard bad stuff about self tint - though it's a fairly easy/flat piece of glass... I also want a silver 'SuperCharger' logo to sit centrally under the tint before I do it, which may end up looking completely horrible (only a small logo mind).

Any tips on the tint if you did it yourself and the quality of results? I take it it wasn't that cheap/nasty foliatec/boy racer stuff you can get?

BTW I agree with you about the side strips. I think it looks cleaner and more modern without them so it's a shame to go and stick them back on again after you've paid for a respray (IMO!)

They were tinted when I bought the car so can't help really. I did have all the glass out when I rebuilt the car and it is just stick on stuff, it is actually a bit dark for my liking

[coverco]

Great job, i'm jealous of the result - looks stunning!

Can you tell me which MIG you bought. I was looking at the 151 clarke until I realised it needed a power pack and didn't work from the mains. The best I can see that works from the mains is the 110E 100 amp mig. I know it's more than enough for panels like the bodywork/arches but is it powerful enough for CHASSIS work? (Floor pan metal and sills)

Obv i've done my own research at sites like this:

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=661

but any tips are always useful. As I will be welding outside mainly but don't want to use gas(use)less what kind of problems occur if the wind picks up? and how best to shield from the wind?

and for reference does anyone know the actual metal thickness of the different metals needing repair on mk1s? bodywork metal, sills, floorpan, inner arch/chassis/structural etc? I read somewhere than DIY migs often don't weld what they say they can (ie a 5mm can only do 3mm for example, though this can be helped with a V cut and root join but not always practicle in hard to reach areas under the car).

I'm glad to say my top windscreen area wasn't even half as bad as yours was and was solid but had rust/bubbling paint (Now fixed but needs proper painting instead of my rubbish temporary job) and i've still yet to fit a windscreen (got to find the # for the kit from toyota with the gasket/sponge and clips etc).

Did you rust proof all those inner arch panels before putting the top quarter/wing panel on or did you squirt waxoyl down afterwards just so I know which is the best way to do it - i've got a few pots of eastwoods rust encapsulator (similar to por15 dunno if it's as good but it does have good reviews).

thanks in advance for any info and well done on the car.. another mk1 saved!

I used the same site that you have looked at to learn about MIG welding. I bought the Clarke 100E from Machine Mart, it is a gas welder. They do not work very well outside, as I found out when welding the bottom of Dave's (bburn13) windscreen, but they do work. As to what thickness of metal it will weld, I really don't know, it did what I needed but I also have an Arc Welder if I do thick stuff

I did not use underseal on the inside of the new quarters I just sprayed them with Waxoyl, I did slap loads of underseal inside the inner arches, and sprayed loads of Waxoyl into the sills

It nevers hurts to fill anywhere you can get at with underseal and waxoyl.

Don't bother with the Toyota windscreen clips they are rubbish, stick the strip on with Sikaflex, I could not use my original strip as my profile was slightly different, I used a universal windscreen seal, which is glued onto the top edge of the screen.

[Sharpfish]

thanks (and for the PM info too).

[gforceuk]

How is this restored mr2 looking now? still looking as good I hope...