Discussion and technical advice the SW20 MR2. 3S-GTE, 3S-GE, 3S-FE etc
Anything and everything to do with maintenance, modifications and electrical is in here for the Mk2.
dylan5084 wrote:So I had sneaking suspisions that My manifold had cracked, so I've took off the heat wrap, some of the heat wrap had turned into glass... Pretty hot! and yep it is cracked so I'll defo take your manifold mate means I can cut off the flange of both and weld my one into the other without feeling like I've wasted money that could have been recouped from selling the old manifold
Just won A tial wastegate on eBay too so it seals the deal for me
I'll weld the old one just now so I can still use the car, as the crack is accessible from to top anyway
Heat wrapped manifold will give problems with cracking, it will also be the cause of your over boost problems.
No need to do anything with the stock waste gate, it can be run with the external one as long as you feed the same boost signal from the manifold to both.
Right, so I'd be better not wrapping the next one? Was thinking I could put a blanket over it.
So to send the same signal to both gates, would just require a T piece and some vac lines?
Yes use a blanket over the turbine housing, they work well.
As long as the springs in the waste gate are less than the boost you want to run, just tee into one signel line from the manifold and away you go.
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
bobhatton wrote:
Heat wrapped manifold will give problems with cracking, it will also be the cause of your over boost problems.
No need to do anything with the stock waste gate, it can be run with the external one as long as you feed the same boost signal from the manifold to both.
Right, so I'd be better not wrapping the next one? Was thinking I could put a blanket over it.
So to send the same signal to both gates, would just require a T piece and some vac lines?
Yes use a blanket over the turbine housing, they work well.
As long as the springs in the waste gate are less than the boost you want to run, just tee into one signel line from the manifold and away you go.
so just leave the 4 branch exposed? i want to run a bar of boost, silly question i know but do i use a 1bar spring in the EWG or less like 0.9?
dylan5084 wrote:
so just leave the 4 branch exposed? i want to run a bar of boost, silly question i know but do i use a 1bar spring in the EWG or less like 0.9?
Yes, do not wrap the manifold or down pipe.
I would use a 8 or 10 psi spring and a boost controler to set the boost you want to run
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
dylan5084 wrote:
so just leave the 4 branch exposed? i want to run a bar of boost, silly question i know but do i use a 1bar spring in the EWG or less like 0.9?
Yes, do not wrap the manifold or down pipe.
I would use a 8 or 10 psi spring and a boost controler to set the boost you want to run
am i better to make up some sort of heat shield between the manifold and the hot pipe?
ive got a blitz dsbc to control the boost, willi need a fuel cut defender to run a bar?
boost creep nearly killed me this morning on the way home from work, had the controller turned right down but with the nice cold morning it boost crept when i was overtaking a lorry and fuel cut, had to turn the car off n on mid overtake with traffic getting closer n closer
dylan5084 wrote:boost creep nearly killed me this morning on the way home from work, had the controller turned right down but with the nice cold morning it boost crept when i was overtaking a lorry and fuel cut, had to turn the car off n on mid overtake with traffic getting closer n closer
Wait, what? You shouldn't need to restart the car just because you fuel cut! I'll throw up the CEL momentarily but otherwise you should be able to get straight back on the power (or at least part throttle)
dylan5084 wrote:
so just leave the 4 branch exposed? i want to run a bar of boost, silly question i know but do i use a 1bar spring in the EWG or less like 0.9?
Yes, do not wrap the manifold or down pipe.
I would use a 8 or 10 psi spring and a boost controler to set the boost you want to run
Bob my hks evc 6 says to choose from a popit valve (external) and swing (internal) how can you control both at the same time
dylan5084 wrote:Any positive pressure and it cuts again until the car is turned off n on again, so no power really
That's not my experience of fuel cut...
I believe Rev 2 and Rev 3 differ in behaviour. Rev 3 will just cut power until boost drops below limit and then allow boost again as normal. Rev 2 will prevent any boost until ignition is turned off.
dylan5084 wrote:Any positive pressure and it cuts again until the car is turned off n on again, so no power really
That's not my experience of fuel cut...
I believe Rev 2 and Rev 3 differ in behaviour. Rev 3 will just cut power until boost drops below limit and then allow boost again as normal. Rev 2 will prevent any boost until ignition is turned off.
Fair enough!
I'm running an ST205 ECU anyway, so I guess my behaviour could be different anyway...
dylan5084 wrote:
so just leave the 4 branch exposed? i want to run a bar of boost, silly question i know but do i use a 1bar spring in the EWG or less like 0.9?
Yes, do not wrap the manifold or down pipe.
I would use a 8 or 10 psi spring and a boost controler to set the boost you want to run
Bob my hks evc 6 says to choose from a popit valve (external) and swing (internal) how can you control both at the same time
Just feed the same signel to both, they will open up
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
dylan5084 wrote:
so just leave the 4 branch exposed? i want to run a bar of boost, silly question i know but do i use a 1bar spring in the EWG or less like 0.9?
Yes, do not wrap the manifold or down pipe.
I would use a 8 or 10 psi spring and a boost controler to set the boost you want to run
am i better to make up some sort of heat shield between the manifold and the hot pipe?
Yes, heat shielding is the way to do it.
Designer for turbo set ups on F1 cars, and Nitrous Oxide Systems of the USA in the 80s
Well I just went for a run with my internal actuator disconnected and my external running only on actuator pressure. I was creeping to 1.2bar in second and hit fuel-cut in third... so if the internal actuator was opening (and I can't say for certain it wasn't) it clearly wasn't letting much exhaust gas through!
