Looking for a Mk2, what to avoid?

[StealthSteve]

I've decided it HAS to be a Tbar - that is my only rule.

I've been negotiating with a couple of sellers online after 2 deals fell through and it's got me wondering what, if anything I should be avoiding?

About me:
Been driving for 7/8years, driven allsorts of cars from Corsa B's to M5s and so far not crashed anything.

I'm a spirited driver, but not yet picked up any tickets.. that said I haven't played properly in anything with an MR2 setup; RWD low down sportscar, just grew up with Go-Karts and am aware of the difference, 2 friends have MR2s and I know to be careful.

I wanted a Rev2, because I prefer the styling of them and they had the best mechanical stuff bolted into 'em, without much needing changing to be a decent daily driver.

I found a Rev2 with a Rev3 engine, just missed out on that thanks to a bloody eBay snipe *gutted*

But, I've been offered a Rev1 pretty cheap with minimal work required, so what should I look for when I go to see it at the weekend?

[MR2 Turbo Boy]

Moderator edit - Premium membership required to sell

[Rory]

Are you looking for a turbo or NA? If you've driven M5's then you're going to be disappointed with an NA. If you going turbo then rev 3+ is the best setup. Do a search on here to find out more. Its been covered plenty of times over the life of this forum. Also don't get too cocky...... "spirited driver, no points, driven everything and havent crashed yet etc"
Cocky driver + MR2 Turbo = Pain

[adaz]

Have a look at this article if you haven't already http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=116785

[bobhatton]

Try to find one that is stock and not been play with. No bigger that 16" wheels.

Rev 1 are the best handerling of them all as long as you have very good tyres. The brakes are smaller but with the right pads they are as good as the rest

[StealthSteve]

Moderator edit - Premium membership required to sell

Was that referring to my post? I didn't offer anything for sale.

Are you looking for a turbo or NA? If you've driven M5's then you're going to be disappointed with an NA.

Also don't get too cocky...... "spirited driver, no points, driven everything and havent crashed yet etc"
Cocky driver + MR2 Turbo = Pain

Sorry, NA, because I want to get a feel for a non turbo and make the change when I crave more power, in line with the 'dont get cocky' note I don't want to jump straight into a Turbo2 and mash it or myself up, I'm only 25.

Sorry I know 'what car threads' are often covered on forums over and again but I posted newly to ask what the cons were of a Rev1 over Rev2/3 and if they're really bad enough to stay away from.

[StealthSteve]

Try to find one that is stock and not been play with. No bigger that 16" wheels.

I've seen this:


(guess i need to up my count before hotlinking pics on.

And read that it's wise to put Yokohama S039s 205 on the rear.

[nathan.z]

My n/a rev 4 T bar is for sale.

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=172205

[KarlBristol]

If it was me I would suggest buying a well kept rev1 as they are the best handling. Also if you were to go for a converted 3sfe they are also the lightest by far. I went this route as I wanted a proper car without abs, traction control, power steering, etc..

As for engines that you should go for this is open to debate. IMO going for an na just to later sell it and get a tubby or V6 doesn't seem like a very economical way to do things.

I would buy a tubby or V6 and just treat it with the respect that it deserves and get to know it before being at all pedal happy. If your looking for a tubby then go REV3+ and as standard as possible with good service history. A V6 is just a whole different ball park with what to look for and there are entire threads dedicated to that .

When viewing various MR2s the only thing that I would emphasise is don't under estimate rusty sills - mine cost me a little over 1k to have sorted. Always check them!!

[KarlBristol]

What's your budget out of interest?
A well known member is going to be selling his immaculate and modified tubby although it wouldn't be cheap I wouldn't have thought

[laze]

Sorry to deviate from the op but I'm sure he'll be interested to know as well - what makes the rev 1 handle the best?

[StealthSteve]

When viewing various MR2s the only thing that I would emphasise is don't under estimate rusty sills - mine cost me a little over 1k to have sorted. Always check them!!

Noted..

Budget, not alot.

I'm a self employed driver and car issues have cost me ~5weeks of work recently, the last £500 i have reserved is going into a car I can get roadbound to get me about again from site to site - it won't be used "for work" but it will be a commuter.

I was going to buy a tidy one off here but the seller went very quiet as the deal was finalising so I decided to get something that needs a little work and I can put real effort into and take pride as I see the results.

- laze; crack on.

[bobhatton]

Sorry to deviate from the op but I'm sure he'll be interested to know as well - what makes the rev 1 handle the best?

The rear subframe and the way the track control arms work

[Gullzter]

Where did u find information that the rev2 has better mechanical stuff bolted to it out of curiosity?

Also its everyones preference to what they prefer handling wise.. Ive had a rev 2 and have a rev 3 now, IMO a rev 2- is good for natural drivers because of the steering it has.. I would have 1 as a track car.
The rev3+ on the other hand is better road driving for me in that respect
If were talking turbos, the rev3 has better spool through the mid range, i did find the rev2 had quicker spool though but id have a rev3 over my old rev2 any day

Also if u want a good mr2 that probably wont need alot of work id say try buy from here as it will be easier to trace the history if the car has a build thread but i wanted to have my own little project and couldnt find anything at the time of purchase so looked elsewhere and here i am stripping alot of it

[Rory]

£500 isn't going to get you much at all. With that budget you could be buying a world of pain. Not sure if I would buy a decades old sports car for that money and expect trouble free comuting in it. I picked up a t-bar anniversary model for 800 last year that was ok condition as the basis for a project. Maybe you should save a bit longer. 1k could make all the difference.

[StealthSteve]

There's a couple of places that say the Rev2 has better handling parts as standard but Rev1 has a better chassis layout for feedback and road feel.

PistonHeads
MR2oc
DriftWorx
and a couple less known sites.

I know £500 isn't alot but in fairness the 2 first deals that fell through were immaculate cars, one was on here and had a project thread. I'm no stranger to a spanner but have wanted one for a few years and my insurance just dropped so while I have to change cars it seemed a convenient time to get something I can invest in, there seems to be perfect cars around for 1/1.5K and a few more for half the price that need a bit of work and i'm wondering (just personally) if spending the extra is worth doing for a car that I don't need to touch and might not be as invested in.

[rs007]

I've seen "doable" MR2s in the 500-750 range, but there is a hell of a lot of dross so be careful. We all like a project, its why we are on this site, but theres a project, then theres a money pit that you will just resent, where your line is is down to you as a person and what you enjoy from a car.

Having said that, I'm the muppet that bid on mine on ebay without even seeing it. I had logic on my side tho, I had a strict max bid in mind, which to me was still inside what I could get for the car if breaking, so way I seen it, if it was a dog I'd just tear it down.

I got lucky, the car isn't without its niggles and is now a year later showing signs of needing the sills done at least on one side, but that doesn't faze me - and I won't be paying £££ to have it done either.

Totally depends on you and what you are willing to give up time wise, how handy you are, how much of that natural "fixability" you have, how much you enjoy getting in amongst it...

I'm not sure about the Rev1 to Rev2 suspension changes. TBH, I think its the kinda thing that your average driver likes to talk about, but will never really be able to tell the difference, on the road. Makes good forum/pub conversation.

What I would say, is the Rev1 has drastically smaller brakes up front than the Rev2; and rotor diameter factually makes a difference to braking performance, no question.

[StealthSteve]

I've seen "doable" MR2s in the 500-750 range, but there is a hell of a lot of dross so be careful. We all like a project, its why we are on this site, but theres a project, then theres a money pit that you will just resent, where your line is is down to you as a person and what you enjoy from a car.

Having said that, I'm the muppet that bid on mine on ebay without even seeing it. I had logic on my side tho, I had a strict max bid in mind, which to me was still inside what I could get for the car if breaking, so way I seen it, if it was a dog I'd just tear it down.

Been there, done that at 17 I travelled from York to Bognor Regis for a 125cc bike without anything more than a fuzzy 'garage pic' because it looked pretty. It turned out to be the wrong bike as listed but once I checked what it actually was, rather than a Honda NSR125 it was Honda NS125R and I kept it 6 years.

I'm seeing one (Rev1) I've spotted on Sunday, it needs a starter motor and front anti-roll bar mount? (possibly needs the mount welding) but other than that it's ready to go.

[Gullzter]

There's a couple of places that say the Rev2 has better handling parts as standard but Rev1 has a better chassis layout for feedback and road feel.

Id say the complete opposite, if ur not a really good driver and the thought of having the rear end pull out scares u id say the rev3+ are better set up to pull back in line, but thats just my opinion from experience of testing swinging the rear then trying to straighten up, i know alot of people think different though

[uglee]

I'm seeing one (Rev1) I've spotted on Sunday, it needs a starter motor and front anti-roll bar mount? (possibly needs the mount welding) but other than that it's ready to go.

Anti roll bar bracket, or the area on the chassis where the anti roll bar bracket bolts to?

If it's the latter run away, it will be a whole world of pain.

As a rule I'd rather buy a duffer with a good chassis, than a good car covered with tin worm, but other people may think differently to that.