Lauren's 4AGE build by Tom (Icunonsove)

[Icsunonove]

The injectors that came off the engine are part number 23250-16010, have a grey square plug and are 2.0 Ohms.

The spare injectors I have are part number 23250-16070, have a pink rounded plug and are 2.4 Ohms.

I don't know if they are close enough?

[jimi]

T

The spare injectors I have are part number 23250-16070, have a pink rounded plug and are 2.4 Ohms.

I don't think that number is correct, it doesn't show up in the EPC, nearest number I can find is 23209-16070 which is a UK 1b injector

[PW@Woodsport]

On my EPC the 23250-16010 injectors come back as JDM AE86 high impedance ones, so they are the original equipment for that engine, however what is unclear is why they are showing virutally the same resistance as a Mk1b pink injector which is definitely a low imp type with the need for a resistor pack.

It comes back to that ECU, i think that needs to be tested to see what ampage it's putting out at the injectors, if it's 1-2 amps then you're good to go with pinks, but if it's 3-6 amps then it definitely needs a resistor pack wiring in which is pretty simple, you could rob one off a Mk1b for that.

[Lauren]

Cylinder head! Tom's words and pics:

Mismatch between valve pocket valve seat


Horrible lip with mismatch between pocket and seat


Two or three rotary tools makes the job easier


Inlet port blended seat to pocket






Exhaust port


Exhaust pitted valve seat


Really need a bigger parts washer....


Thermostat face




Need a bigger sink too!




Roughly cleaned parts awaiting final clean


It takes quite a while to clean everything properly


Parts washer has been retrofitted with a 500w pond heater, makes a big difference with water based degreasers


All components cleaned and ready to go


And the roughly cleaned cylinder head


This is actually a degreased inlet valve. The valve stem seal has obviously failed on this particular valve


This is what all the exhaust valves looked like


All the ports are slightly mismatched




On the right is the modified inlet ports on Cylinder1. Cylinder 2 is yet to be done




Engineers Blue used to check seat




Midway through lapping. Some pitting remains, more lapping required


Pocket casting imperfections



Power tools can't be used for everything. The donkey work begins....






Exhaust port original


Exhaust port smoothed


Exhaust ports done, pockets not done.




Detritus from hand sanding




Exhaust face. Note mismatch. This will not be corrected because the exhaust manifold will need changing at some point in the future


Face cleaned


Deburring the sharp edges. Top water gallery done, bottom yet to be done


Tools required for deburring


Facing the cylinder head face


Rudimentary valve lathe






he surface finish of a fully cleaned valve




This bar has been ground perfectly flat.

[pk_090]

Arise Sir Tom of Perfect engine builds, please teach me your ways! This is fantastic!

[coanda]

Nice work Tom.

I'm cleaning up a set of throttle bodies from a blacktop 20V, and the degreaser I'm using isn't touching the ingrained muck (melts latex nicely tho!) - what products/process do you use?

[Lauren]

He's using a water based de-greaser heated to about 50C I think. He's spent a lot of time on it too.

I really am blown away by the kind of job Tom is doing!

[mk1 dal]

excellent write up and loving the detail , makes an interesting read on these cold winter nights .

[tommundy]

Amazing attention to detail. Top job Tom!

[boondougal]

yep, really is a very detailed and meticulous rebuild that he is doing.

Very jealous that he even has the patience to do it like this let alone the know how.

[coanda]

He's using a water based de-greaser heated to about 50C I think. He's spent a lot of time on it too.

I really am blown away by the kind of job Tom is doing!

Ok, thanks - I'll see what's out there. Yep, the attention to detail is lovely.

[Lauren]

More great work from Tom:

Block has previously been cleaned and the exterior painted but now it's time to clean it properly externally and internally for rebuild.


It's simply amazing how quickly rust forms. Thus was previously cleaned and sprayed with WD40 (obviously not thoroughly enough)


Bottom face flatted and cleaned with ground flat gauge plate and 400 or 600 grit paper.


Bottom face done


Removing dowels. Drill is used to prevent dowel collapsing when gripped.


Dowels removed ready for flatting off.


Main gallery and main bearing gallery inspection.I ground a small square section of aluminium to have a 45 degree chamfer on the end. The torch will be at one end of the main oil gallery and the mirror stick passed through from the other end.


This is what you see without the aluminium mirror. The main gallery is brightly lit but the walls of the port are too dark to inspect properly.


With the aluminum "mirror" in place there is plenty of light illuminating the ports walls for inspection.


Checking the port is completely clean.


The plugs of the main oil gallery have been removed both ends so that the cleaning is open ended.


Cleaning the main gallery.


Main bearing uppers fitted.


Plastigauge cut into sections for the main bearings.


Plasitguage in place....


.......and extruded....


Measuring the clearance range.


Taking up the endfloat one way.


Put the thrust bearing in the right way!


Lower thrust bearing.


Torquing down


Crankshaft end float (crank forced hard one way)


Insert piston ring square in bore for ring gap measurement.




Measuring ring gap


Cleaning pistons


This hole is a cross drilling into the outer diameter of the gudgeon pin bore.


1200 / 1500 / 2000 grit paper and a needle file, cleaning the piston ring grooves


Final piston ring groove clean.


Piston crown marked for positions of ring ends


Piston assemblies under assembly.


Fitting the first piston


Make sure you don't spin the rings when fitting the compressor


Piston held at correct height ready for piston ring compressor


Big ends plastigauge in place.


Big end nuts are tightened to 39Nm and then....


..an additional 90 degrees. Marking the position prior to final 90 degree tightening.


Mark will face each other when tight.


Fully tightened down.


Plastiguage check.


Don't scratch the crank when removing Plastigauge. This is an aluminium scaper which I have removed all the sharp edges.


Put to bed properly till the next time...

[elbon50]

WOW ! Tom you're an absolute ultra perfectionist

This job is clearly a labour of love

What I don't get is why have this wonderful rebuild done when you're not going to use the car yourself afterwards Lauren

Wouldn't a more basic build be sufficient if you're gonna sell the car ?

[kaiowas]

WOW ! Tom you're an absolute ultra perfectionist

This job is clearly a labour of love

What I don't get is why have this wonderful rebuild done when you're not going to use the car yourself afterwards Lauren

Wouldn't a more basic build be sufficient if you're gonna sell the car ?

You don't know Tom very well do you? He was asked to do a basic rebuild, he's just not capable of it :p

[SySanguinary]

^This. Very much this.

[Lauren]

I knew Tom would do a brilliant job, so I asked him to do it.

[SuperRedMR2]

Satisfaction it is rebuilt properly perhaps Peter.

[elbon50]

Satisfaction it is rebuilt properly perhaps Peter.

Oh absolutely so Alex

I'm not criticising; T is doing a wonderful job

He may be doing it at a special price for a good friend

But at say £35 an hour, the total labour cost of the rebuild must far outweigh the resale value of the car

One thing I'd like to see is the contents of this thread in the Knowledge Base

I wanna refer to it when I do my first 4A-GE rebuild

[SuperRedMR2]

I think the best way to do a rebuild is to do it yourself and learn from scratch and look at a guide to double check what you have done like me.

But that is an awesome build

I won't be being a perfectionist when I find some motivation to get my engine out, though my pistons are coming soon and I can get a discount on the Cat Cams, so that is motivation

[boondougal]

The only downside of this thread is the fact that its highlighting all the things i didn't do when i rebuilt mine!

Agree on the best way to learn is to have a go but the beauty of the internet is that people like Tom are sharing their experience making it so much easier to be confident to have a go when you have non of your own