Engine Removal

[coverco]

I agree with Paul it is a bodge.......


It is a bit like cutting and welding drop links really but if it works is it then not a bodge? As a fully qualified engineer I admit I have used sealants and they have worked, I have also cut and welded droplinks. Suggestions are only that they are not compulsory. Bullying however is petty and childish and is definately not compulsory nor is it particularly clever.

[gon]

I have to say I had exactly the same opinion not so long ago.

In September 2011 I had a leak on my daily drive (not an MR2) and I have put a bottle of K-seal on it.
It has now done 22K miles with the k-seal and its still going strong .... no leaks....

I would still not put in my MR2 though

[Peter Gidden]

It is a bit like cutting and welding drop links really.

I see no similarity whatsoever.

Welding is a permanent action of joining two metals that has been used for centuries.

Propshafts are cut and shut. Driveshafts are cut and shut. Droplinks are cut and shut. All professional solutions to a problem of excessive length.

Tipping snake oil in coolant expecting it to seal a hole is at the best, fingers crossed.

ETA

One has been relied upon in engineering since the industrial revolution. One has not.

[SuperRedMR2]

Using a liquid to fill up a hole in an aluminium radiator is not my idea of any solution.

Thankfully my tractor doesnt run as high temperatures as the mr2.

Ollie they are £120

Coverco i would cut and shut my droplinks if i could but i cant.

Further to your description of welding Peter, the welding rod filler material often provides more of a yield strength than the material itself so itll be even stronger then originally.

[PW@Woodsport]

Question for you.... you have just tipped a bottle of radweld into your cooling system to "fix" a holed radiator, which it does by blocking the hole and drying on contact with air. What happens the very first time you crack a bleed nipple open to bleed your system, say the one on top of your thermostat housing or heater matrix bleed?

Doesn't take a genius to work it out.

Horrible horrible stuff and is a total bodge, it seems to have moved one step further as well, i noticed a can of "instant head gasket repair" gunk for sale in my local motor factors..... please.

[gon]

Its not the best solution, but if you are trying to make your 100 pound commuter last another couple of years it might be a good solution .... that is what I am getting at ...

[PW@Woodsport]

Sorry, it's not a "solution" at all, i causes more problems than it cures.

Fix it once, fix it properly.

Answer the bleed nipple question i posted above and the reason for never letting it anywhere near your cooling system will become clear.

[gon]

my point is :

Imagine you have a car that is worth 100 quid.
The radiator starts leaking.
What do you do :

Option 1 : buy a new rad , although its more expensive than the car is worth.
Option 2 : Scrap the car and buy another one
Option 3 : Drop a bottle of K-seal in (cost 10 pounds) fill it up with water (free) and drive it for another year.

I would choose option 3 , I would know however that I need to prepare financially to scrap this car and get another one, but now I would have some more money for the new one, because I managed to make my old one last a bit longer.

We are on the same side, I would never use unless the situation is the one above.

PS: regarding your question, I would first fill it in with water and bleed it with just water and the add the K-seal bottle

[PW@Woodsport]

In that scenario i would fit a second hand radiator, what £30-£40?

The only time i would ever consider using it is if i broke down with a holed rad, had no breakdown cover, couldn't give a toss about the car and all i wanted to do was get home, even then i'd hang my head in shame at killing a car.

My point is once you've added that stuff you can never bleed your system again, by its very nature it blocks holes in the cooling system, it also blocks thermostats, heater matrix, water pumps and funnily enough rad cores....awesome.

[gon]

no worries, we are entitled to have different opinions ....

My daily car has been running with K-seal on it for the last 22 thousand miles (and another 30 miles between now and my last post) with none of the side effects described in the last post.

[PW@Woodsport]

Hey if you're happy that's all that matters.

[Charged]

Ollie they are £120

shop around, that sounds expensive

[SuperRedMR2]

Peugeot want £175!

I've found one for £89 with a 2 year warranty now however so that'll be bought at the end of the month.

This is awfully off topic and not even about my engine removal so best leave this yeah?

[coverco]

It is a bit like cutting and welding drop links really.

I see no similarity whatsoever.

Welding is a permanent action of joining two metals that has been used for centuries.

Propshafts are cut and shut. Driveshafts are cut and shut. Droplinks are cut and shut. All professional solutions to a problem of excessive length.

One has been relied upon in engineering since the industrial revolution. One has not.

Peter have you ever studied metallurgy? Welding does of course join two metals together however the heat required to achieve the join does affect the metal surrounding the weld. This can make the surrounding area much more brittle which can under certain conditions fail (the weld will be OK but the surrounding metal will fail). The correct engineering solution for a drop link is to have one continuous piece of rod with a ball joint at each end, which is how they come from the manufacturer, shortening the metal rod is a bodge I am afraid.

As to the industrial revolution well you are wrong there as well, there were many "bodges" to seal leaking tanks and pressure vessels the most common being tar or pitch. Welding was used of course but it was at lower temperatures than modern welding techniques and so the metallurgical changes were not as extreme.

[PW@Woodsport]

.....CBA

[SuperRedMR2]

It is a bit like cutting and welding drop links really.

I see no similarity whatsoever.

Welding is a permanent action of joining two metals that has been used for centuries.

Propshafts are cut and shut. Driveshafts are cut and shut. Droplinks are cut and shut. All professional solutions to a problem of excessive length.

One has been relied upon in engineering since the industrial revolution. One has not.

Peter have you ever studied metallurgy? Welding does of course join two metals together however the heat required to achieve the join does affect the metal surrounding the weld. This can make the surrounding area much more brittle which can under certain conditions fail (the weld will be OK but the surrounding metal will fail). The correct engineering solution for a drop link is to have one continuous piece of rod with a ball joint at each end, which is how they come from the manufacturer, shortening the metal rod is a bodge I am afraid.

As to the industrial revolution well you are wrong there as well, there were many "bodges" to seal leaking tanks and pressure vessels the most common being tar or pitch. Welding was used of course but it was at lower temperatures than modern welding techniques and so the metallurgical changes were not as extreme.

Thanks for the history lesson but 'pitch' is what you find in a football match, its actually Bitumen or a substance called Belzona which can seal a tank if welding is not an option. Although you can hot weld a tank with product inside.

But thanks originally for helping me with the question about removing my engine

[elbon50]

I did not refer to Radweld or any other product apart from Bars Leaks

I have personal experience of Bars Leaks starting decades ago

Call it a bodge if you like but it does the job without any known side effects

Before rubbishing any product first research the science then try it

Having said that, I am aware that I have a knack of irritating some folk without intending to do so

[SuperRedMR2]

I've used Radweld in a Ford Focus and as people have quite rightly said, it makes the situation worse. A new water pump and radiator were required.

I don't like mentioning the F word as I hate them to my core, but you forced me

[elbon50]

I would only use Radweld as a get me home if absolutely desperate

Bars Leaks is different altogether

[SuperRedMR2]

I'm sure it is, but this is b0ll0cks now as this is an MR2 thread and I merely only touched on the fact my peugeot needs a radiator.

So enough or ill have the thread deleted as its no help to me.