Engine Removal

Discussion and technical advice for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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SuperRedMR2
Posts: 5494
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
Location: Wickford, Essex

Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

Right,

All my pistons and main bearings are out. Will put pictures up later on this evening to show conditions. Reckon I will get away with not having to buy any which will be an excellent result :)

Anyway, furthermore to an issue.

As the block is sitting in currently with the gearbox attached, I have no lifting hooks attached to the block. The crankshaft is obviously still in position, would it be okay to support the block on rope through the pots or is this a no-no?

Cheers
kaiowas
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by kaiowas »

It's traditional to remove the engine before you expose all of the shiny, critical toleranced inside bits and oilways to the vagaries of the outside world but now that you've gone that far.....

I'd put the sump back on (assuming you've removed it to get to the rod bolts), seal the top of the block with some plastic sheeting or similar to keep debris out then use the driver side engine mount to take the weight whilst you drop the engine and gearbox.

You certainly don't want to be lifting on the crank or with a strap through the bores. That's just asking to damage one of those nice surfaces that don't respond well to hamfistedness.
SuperRedMR2
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Location: Wickford, Essex

Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

Yeah I know its traditional to do it that way, but I wanted to learn about taking it apart in situ rather than out of the car.

Made taking the head bolts and conrod nuts off far easier IMO.

The block is going to be fully degreased anyway so debris not bothered about.

Since posting this i've had some rails fabricated to bolt to where the sump would go so the block can lower without the rest of the internals clashing with the ground, only crank journals I think.

I'll put a chain/strap round somewhere else. The alternator bracket is still attached and i'll prob drop box and block in one go.

Didn't think it was a good idea.
chrismanchr
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by chrismanchr »

maybe you could lower the car as much as possible (with no wheels on of course ) support the engine and gearbox (Ive seen a thread somewhere were they bolted legs onto the block so it could stand up ;-) genius ) then lift the car above it and drag it out ? the body will be quite light then and it would be just a case of lifting it a little higher than if you'd lowered the engine to the ground ,but you'll have to watch the front for hitting the ground and if youve got the headoff it will be much easier !

I know boxster engines and gearbox are removed this way but the engines are much lower to begin with
SuperRedMR2
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

Ill tie the ropes round the alternator, engine mount and gearbox mount and lower it down. Should be okay like that.

Cheers.

Problem I've got is removing the crank pulley.
pk_090
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by pk_090 »

Ohhh yes that baby is going to be tight. I had to air gun mine off in the car so it didn't wobble about all over the place. d get a few "big" mates to hold i while doing it! The actual pulley will be tight to so some kind of puller needs to be made. If needbe i have a slightly battered spare one you can have.
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kaiowas
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by kaiowas »

It's a good idea to loosen the crank pulley bolt before you strip it too much further as you can use the gearbox/brakes to stop the crank turning. Stick it in 5th, handbrake on good and hard and try to undo the bolt whilst hoping the clutch doesn't start slipping.
SuperRedMR2
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

My best mate had his £500 Snap On impact gun pinched after some crack head xxxxx broke into his car, so that would have been the weapon-o-choice to use to get it off!

Gearbox is still on so was going to chuck it in gear and put a long lever or flat head screwdriver in teeth of flywheel if it still won't budge!

Not sure how tight it'll be as it was put on 14k ago so it may be easier but i'm being optimistic as it's christmas tomorrow! lol
chrismanchr
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by chrismanchr »

an air impact gun/wrench is on my chrissy presents list as ive had a compressor for years but hardly any tools
SuperRedMR2
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

chrismanchr wrote:an air impact gun/wrench is on my chrissy presents list as ive had a compressor for years but hardly any tools


This was battery powered - very high powered.
SuperRedMR2
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

Managed to loosen the crank pulley but cannot remove it as got to drop block lower than chassis. But its almost ready to drop out completely apart from measuring journals in situ.

Unfortunately as I didn't have a puller or lever bar, an 1/2" long extension, towel and hammer knocked the pulley as far as it would go, demolishing bits of it - so will need another pulley :(
chrismanchr
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by chrismanchr »

would of been cheaper to buy a pulley puller ,I got one of ebay 7 quid
chrismanchr
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by chrismanchr »

so is the engine out yet?
PW@Woodsport
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by PW@Woodsport »

SuperRedMR2 wrote:
Unfortunately as I didn't have a puller or lever bar, an 1/2" long extension, towel and hammer knocked the pulley as far as it would go, demolishing bits of it - so will need another pulley :(


The crank pulley on the 4a-ge will actually remove very easily with the correct technique, which is a very slow but critically EVEN pull using two pry bars, no real force needed, but as soon as you exert more force on one bar than the other it will jam on the crank. Most people try to do it with as much force as possible which just makes the problem worse, in most cases i can remove them with light even pressure with just my hands.

It really is all in the technique.
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SuperRedMR2
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

I didn't have the patience and i've already budgeted for another pulley anyway as i knew this was going to happen. I've used cheap pulleys before and they have been xxxx. The pulley had been damaged slightly before anyway so it was always going to end up being replaced.

No it's not out Chris.
SuperRedMR2
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

Got some pictures of the conrod bearings and the main end bearings.

One looks a bit half and half, but will check the journals when the crank comes out as it's too cold and wet under the car to fanny around with a vernier.

ope people like my uncomplicated numbering system lol

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Lauren
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by Lauren »

Looks like new bearings then.
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SuperRedMR2
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Location: Wickford, Essex

Re: Engine Removal

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

The photos look worse than they are.
chrismanchr
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by chrismanchr »

it looks like very even smooth wear

there was a forum thread put up years back in 2007 where this guy (british also )did an engine rebuild on a 88 n/a ,he was a complete pro with so many pics ,it was essentailly a complete guide and everything you could ever wish for ,for rebuilding one of these engines and I wish I'd saved it because it was a fantastic forum thread ,can't even remember where it is ,Ive looked

anybody else remember it?
elbon50
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Re: Engine Removal

Post by elbon50 »

You need to know if the crank requires grinding before making any decisions about the shell bearings
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