The fact its showing that you have 1.2 bar of boost on both runs where you have power or not would suggest its not a boost issue to me as its reaching what I guess is your regular boost amount? Unless the gauge is whacky. Wastegate movement wouldn't have anything to do with that. An open wastegate y...
The bolt below is quite fiddly to get to
I ended up removing the air conditioning unit which gave me much better access (it didnt work so i was removing anyway)
ringslayer wrote:Does this one really raise boost pressure or did you need a boostcontroller?
This does not raise boost pressure... It increases the fuel cut.
You still need a boost controller to increase your boost as its mechanically controlled.
Gonna be that guy who bought an 'ebay' downpipe in my MR2 infancy and have had no problems for the past 2 years with it.
Took it off last week whilst I was doing some other bits and its still holding up fine no cracks and went back on
Maybe I just got lucky.
Hi If the actuator arm had disconnected from your wastegate your wastegate would just be flapping around. You would be seeing the car spool really slowly and it would take a long time to get to your peak boost of 0.9 bar. as the wastegate would be opening immediately causing some exhaust gasses to b...
If its overboosting chances are it will be your vacuum lines. tear in a vacuum line going to the wastegate is like a free uncontrolled bleed valve.. If your setup has been running fine for so long then I doubt it would be the other parts listed, I initially ran into boost creep issues when I install...
Think you just confirmed below but yes without that plumbed into your actuator the wastegate would just not open and you will have spooled up until you hit the fuel cut.
When you say you could not drive and boost through the rev range what do you mean?
I cant be sure. I mean it was new out of the packet and into the car but it could potentially be bad I suppose. I know it is supplying fuel as the car is running and I can empty my tank by removing the return line but maybe its just bad and not able to keep up with the fueling. Cant seem to get a re...
Okay so tried another FPR and still the same thing is occuring, it is a known working regulator but i guess i do need to still try and read the fuel pressure properly Seen as this is the tvis model could it have anything to do with that maybe being stuck and not opening to allow more air flow? even ...
In regards to all the vac lines I have changed those. Does make sense what you've said its a lot of fuel to just be recirculating, I think I will probably end up changing the fuel pump back, although not a real fun process dropping that tank out on my garage floor just on axle stands. I do have a va...
Thanks for the reply Funny you should mention fueling i was thinking that, The fuel pump unit i used to replace was a walbro 255 unit i had laying around for my turbo mk2. But my thoughts are that the FPR would return any excessive fuel to the tank via the return pipe and the pressure would be the s...
[quote="PW@Woodsport"]Very first port of call is pulling the fault codes, bridge T and E1 in the diagnostic connector, switch ignition on, count check engine light flashes, fault code 4 will be 4 flashes etc, no codes stored will be constant single flash. So just done this and i am getting...
Don't know why I didn't think to do that in the first place, i'll have a go when I get back from work and post the results.
Yes the previous owner had it driving around fine and then just parked it up, this is the first time I have had it on the road, I noticed this on the way to the MOT station.
Hello Been working at getting my mk1 back on the road after not being mot'd and sat for 8 years before i bought it. Im having an issue at the moment with the car bogging down after 3k RPM in any gear except first which will allow you to accelerate to about 5k then it will also have the same problem....