Best way to store a GZE/SC engine? (oil etc)

[Sharpfish]

If I strip my SC conversion and store the parts until I can source a better shell/sell up, what is the best way to store the engine. I mean should I leave the oil in or out?

While it's still in the car I can turn it over (it won't start because fuel pump is dead from sitting) and get the oil moved around a bit, drop it, store it, but i'm sure I read somewhere once that it's better to drain the oil out for long term storage? Failing that is there something I can put in the engine before dropping to help before storage? (some long term oil additive or something)

I'm asking this because i'm finally convinced that the shell just isn't worth saving (Sills, floor pan and one rear arch gone!) plus no windscreen (I had planned to replace this with a new one after repairing the strip above the window between the t-bars) and then the Fuel Pump went (which is a pain of a job) so I just decided to call it a day with this shell/chasis and store the parts and see if anything turns up I can drop the engine/toys into (like I did before after my original 'true JDM SC' was written off by a idiot in an artic lorry). I've dropped/swaped engines before (got a hoist etc) so that's not an issue, I just want to make sure I've taken care of the engine in the best way possible before removing it from the car.

When I dropped it from the SC back in 2001 I only stored it for a month (with oil in) before fitting in new car and no problems at all, however this engine could potentially be stored for years if I don't get rid of it or have to 'wait' for the right shell to show up.

thanks for any advice.

[MartG]

I don't think whether or not theres oil sitting in the sump is going to affect the rest of the engine in any way while it's being stored. Of more concern would be keeping it free of moisture to avoid anything rusting

[spudgun]

I don't know if its the right thing to do or not, but if I was storing an engine for any length of time I would be tempted to fill any internal space with oil, the more the merrier.

The cylinders themselves wouldn't hurt being filled with oil as long as you blew it out before starting.

In an engine I can't see any situation where standing oil would cause a problem, but damp and rust will.

[Sharpfish]

Yeah, thanks guys. It makes sense that it will all be in the sump anyway I guess, but didn't want to leave anything in that could go funny on sitting. I wouldn't have asked if i'd hadn't seen somewhere someone recommending oil to be drained out completely (possibly to avoid 'bad' oil being distributed on refit/turnover should the mechanic/owner/new owner not change the oil first.

I also wondered if there was some magic liquid out there that can aid in storing engines/preventing corrosion (i.e it 'sticks' to the internals rather than draining, then is drained with another flush liquid before refitting).

Filling up with oil to cover the parts, then complete draining/new oil before any future start attempt (of course) sounds ok.

Rust forming on the inside of the engine doesn't sound good so I guess I can just drop it as it is. I'll prob loose some of it out of the oil cooler pipes if I remember from last time, esp if filled to the brim, so would prob drop it then plug up the holes then fill for storage/drain for refit/sale.

As it's in the car at the moment, I turn it over every week or so (as I said it won't start because of stupid fuel pump which gave up a few weeks back) but this does throw the oil around a bit, once it's out I can't do that....

thanks.

[DNOS808]

There is a company that produces corrosion inhibiting oils that you put into engines, gearboxes etc when they are stored. I have some of the products. I think they may be sold under the name enginewise. I would have to check that when I next go to my workshop. They are used by the people who rebuild the Rolls Royce Merlin aero engines.

[Sharpfish]

There is a company that produces corrosion inhibiting oils that you put into engines, gearboxes etc when they are stored. I have some of the products. I think they may be sold under the name enginewise. I would have to check that when I next go to my workshop. They are used by the people who rebuild the Rolls Royce Merlin aero engines.

Thanks, will have a search for it.

[Jim-SR]

there doesnt need to be lots of oil present to stop it rusting. if its been running recently then just the residue that is left behind will be enough to stop anything rusting if the engine is staying in one piece. i left a bare engine block unused for about 3 years without oil in it, just the residue from where it was taken apart, and it didnt rust at all. i cleaned it off properly and it was rusting the bores within 24 hours. but they are so work hardened that it doesnt really rust them, just sits on the surface. first time you run a scouring pad down the bores it all disappears, a DIY de-glazing hone would clean them up sufficiently for use later. its the internal cavities that are trickier, you cant clean them out no matter how hard you try. but the ones you need to worry about there are the coolant passages anyway, just run coolant with rust inhibitor in it through the engine and then drain it

[Sharpfish]

Well if I came to refit it, i'd probably do some kind of stripping down/renewing of certain parts anyway so I could see the conditon then. I did a compresion check a while back and it was nigh on perfect across the cylinders so I know the engine is good shape (~70k miles on it - 48k in 2001 when I bought it in the original SC).

If I end up getting rid of it at least I know it should be ok, but I wouldn't want to store it for long if I wasn't keeping it as I couldn't comment on condition then (after sitting) and would advise it have a good look over.

[dex]

Changing the oil before storing it is advisable as old oil will have acids and moisture in it, a synthetic oil is usually recommended. As said above, a bit down the spark plug holes and turning it over will help coat the bores (don't turn it over on the starter after refitting the spark plugs!). The is a product called CamGuard that is meant to be of use for long term storage, I have no personal experience of it though.

[Sharpfish]

thanks everyone. I think what i'll try and do, if I don't end up selling the SC engine/Parts, is keep it stored in teh shell and find a NEW shell/car before stripping. I guess that makes sense as at least I can turn it over while it's hooked up to the tank/electrics/coolant etc.

So basically if i'm keeping it myself i'll get another mk1 first for the swap, if I decide to sell then I will strip and store with the advice above thanks.


Oh and if anyone knows of a GOOD mk1 shell (underneath and around windscreen more than arches really) but with a rough/blown engine then let me know as I'd take a non runner/dead engine car with a good shell off someone's hands. As i've also got virtually brand new (lowered) suspension and many other bits i'd swap over the car really does just need to be a good bare shell, even engine lid, rear lights, interior etc can be rough as I have good parts already i'd be putting in.