[Mk2] [Turbo] PUG_2_MR2: Plans On Tuning My MR2 MK2 REV 3 Turbo

[PUG_2_MR2]

Since I'm very new to the MR2 and a sports car anyway, I was looking into a lot of tuning theories and explanations to understand the 3S-GTE...and I was pointed to this site:

MR Controls:
http://www.mrcontrols.com/index.html

Not only does it tell you how to tune it safely it explains everything in great detail and reading it was a pleasure, I learned a lot.

I am only interested the 275rwhp or around figure that is discussed...and I did read 300bhp figures are quite achievable...I am not interested in forging parts spending big bucks on it, just gonna keep it as stock as possible with a little more power and keeps it as reliable as possible with regular servicing...and at the end of the day drivable on roads.

I already have a good stainless steel de cat HKS exhaust, 200mm HKS mushroom air filter and I will be changing the stock SMIC for a GReddy copy + ''gtschris'' SMIC kit, which I already have and a MBC also from ''gtschris''. I will also get foam to seal the IC face to the plate.

The SMIC kit was a pain in the ass as the hoses and clamps were the wrong size but I got the kit perfected and they won't be a problem...


Now, I read the whole MR Controls sections and a couple of times more...the write up is based on a REV 2. I also looked into the difference between the REV 2 and REV 3 and it appears a lot of mods done on the REV 2 can be skipped on the REV 3:

TVIS found of REV 1 & 2 has been removed on the REV 3 and altered from two holes per port to just four ports minus the butterfly valves. It talks about an MSD RPM switch to adjust the opening points and increase the VE...Obviously with the TVIS removed this step cannot be performed...and not sure if it needs to be by other means?

Also being a REV 2 it talks about a fuel cut and how it has to be manually raised to allow the turbo boost to be increased...but the REV 3's fuel cut has been raised from 12psi to 18psi so this step is eliminated...

One of the last things it talks about is installing a fuel pressure regulator and the S-AFC to stop the ECU dumping extra fuel to prevent deterioration past 12psi. So it talks about taking it to a dyno and hooking it up to a O2 meter so the AFR can be lowered from the stock ratio. But at the end it says that upgrading the CT26 to a CT20B will mean the ration will go back to stock and the pressure regulator and the S-AFC can be removed all together.

So was the 3S-GTE in the REV 3 deliberately redesigned by TOYOTA to allow easier tuning?
Will a SMIC and a MBC with boost upped really be all I'd have to do to get closer to 300bhp? I'll probably raise the boost 0.1 of a bar at a time...


Before starting work I will first carry out a full service, changing the oil and fuel filters, oil, sump washer, magnetic sump plug.
Once the service is done and the SMIC is in, I will get NGK 6097 Copper Spark Pugs and change the distributor cap, rotor arm and maybe get new spark leads just so it's all fresh.
If you got any more suggestions on what I should change lemme know.

Sorry for the big write up but I want to consult with you guys to make sure I'm understanding this right.
Again, very, very new to a sports cars and petrol cars but as you can see I read up a lot on it in the past few weeks.

Thanks

[Draven]

You can achieve 300bhp with breathing mods and decat and free flowing exhaust on a rev3+.

Sorry didn't read all of it.

[Keljon]

you are on the right road, use OE ignition components and i use the same plugs but change them every oil change (around 3k miles)

its your choice but i would fit an electronic boost controller and then get it booked in on the dyno so you can check air fuel ratios as you increase the boost

[Marf]

Give it a full service including all fluids, filters, dizzy cap, rotor arm, new leads

Fit

downpipe
exhaust
ST205 Chargecooler
Airbox/Induction kit
Boost controller

Set boost to 1.1bar

Enjoy,

[PUG_2_MR2]

Again, I know it's a lot to read so thanks for responding.

Just to clear things up:

The car already has improved 'breathing' minus the SMIC which will be going in shortly...

Marf, I looked into Chargecoolers too but decided to go with a SMIC with a 'gtschris' fan kit...plus I already have everything for it.

Keljon, I did look into EBC but they are x10 more expensive and in the end do the same thing, although EBCs can be adjusted from the cockpit...

I will be using OEM dizzy cap and rotor arm but I found:
NGK High Performance Ignition Leads in blue and 'gtschris' confirmed they will fit my REV3+. Only a little more expensive over OEM but I fancy trying them along with the grade 7 copper NGK plugs.

Another thing, I started reading about is Oil Catch Cans...as it happens REV3+ have one by default but hot gasses are still put back into the intake from the crankcase...me thinks with the new SMIC and new pipes going in I don't wanna dirty them so thinking of getting a Mini Breather Filter to vent it and cap the intake...ASH and K&N are the only big names I found, I used ASH for a custom IC and was pleased with the quality.


Another thing, my HKS 200mm Mushroom Filter is cracked as it's not secured and rattles...I was looking at a new HKS Super Power Flow Induction Kit.

On eBay, here they cost £150...and from Hong Kong $25...are these fake?

Thanks

[Nic]

Keljon, I did look into EBC but they are x10 more expensive and in the end do the same thing, although EBCs can be adjusted from the cockpit...

That's true for a basic EBC but a top of the range EBC with 'gain' feature and one that allows boost settings to be mapped against speed, rpm, throttle position, etc. can make a big difference to how quickly the turbo spools up and can maximise boost through each gear.

Another thing, my HKS 200mm Mushroom Filter is cracked as it's not secured and rattles...I was looking at a new HKS Super Power Flow Induction Kit.

On eBay, here they cost £150...and from Hong Kong $25...are these fake?

Yes they are fake.

[andy585]

hope your enjoying my old mr2 good to see your spending cash on it
SMIC will keep the temp down
The mbc is fine if all you want to do is raise the boost to 1.1bar
but make sure you dont overboost because you have a very freeflowing exhaust system even more so if you take the silencer out and weld in a 3" pipe then watch the flames and hear the pops

give it a good service before you even raise the boost oil,plugs

i fitted rotorarm and dizzy a year ago but mr2s are knowing for eating them

as for hks filter use tie wraps to secure the filter or fabricate a bracket to hold it

[jimGTS]

an ebc will be better than an mbc for boost control. its price is justified.

do NOT fit a foam filter

ditch the hks and get a paper one. blitz/apexi/KnN

[PUG_2_MR2]

Long time no post due to ironing out some issues but the car up and running.

So to update:
New T1R tires all round.
Engine coolant has been changed and ECU water temp sensor too.
Oil & oil filter changed.
Fuel filter changed.
PCV now breathing to atmosphere.
GReddy style SMIC, plate, shroud and fan in. (had to pretty much get new pipes and hoses)

Noticed a slight loss in power after IC swap not much. Checked boost pressure in 4th (just gunned it until it looked to reach the limit, very awkward to do) seems to be peaking between 0.8 – 0.9 bar, I read stock for a REV 3 is 0.89 bar so happy enough it's stock.
If someone could give tips on how to maybe do it better?

Next will be to upgrade the ignition side of things and install the gtschris MBC.
For you MBC owners, (if I back off the bolt and finger tighten it so it just clamps the ball) how much should I roughly turn the screw if I'm aiming for 1.0 - 1.1 bar?

[bobhatton]

GReddy style SMIC, plate, shroud and fan in.

So you have a fake Chines made intercooler then block off the air flow by fitting a fan shroud.
I am sure you will have less power.

[fingers99]

Remember that -- depending on where you are, who you know -- the de-cat (on a Rev 3) and the vent crankcase gasses to atmosphere (on anything) mods are a sure and certain MOT fail.

[Peter Gidden]

NGK High Performance Ignition Leads in blue and 'gtschris' confirmed they will fit my REV3+. Only a little more expensive over OEM

Err, i think not. OEM lead set from Toyota is around £120.

but hot gasses are still put back into the intake from the crankcase

That's how they work - on any car! With a proper (not to be confused with ebay baked bean tins) oil separator, gases and oil vapour are separated. Oil collected or returned to sump, and vapour recirculated.

thinking of getting a Mini Breather Filter to vent it and cap the intake...ASH and K&N are the only big names I found, I used ASH for a custom IC and was pleased with the quality.

Within a year, a mini filter will coat your whole engine bay in a fine mist of oil.

ASH stuff is cheap. But then so is everything from the land of special fried rice.

Another thing, my HKS 200mm Mushroom Filter is cracked as it's not secured and rattles...I was looking at a new HKS Super Power Flow Induction Kit.

On eBay, here they cost £150...and from Hong Kong $25...are these fake?

Do you really need to ask? Most branded stuff on ebay that is much cheaper than reputable sellers is fake rubbish.

[MR2 Rich]

Just to add EBC are a bit of a waste of money. A decat and a freshly serviced Rev3 turbo will boost just as well without an EBC and get a Fensport actuator.

[PUG_2_MR2]

Just to add EBC are a bit of a waste of money. A decat and a freshly serviced Rev3 turbo will boost just as well without an EBC and get a Fensport actuator.

Best advice I heard so far!
Up until now, just being shot down!

[Nic]

Just to add EBC are a bit of a waste of money.

If it's a basic EBC then I'd agree but a higher spec EBC can make a significant difference to how quickly the turbo spools and can also help maximise boost levels through each gear. They're not cheap but there are advantages having a decent EBC fitted.