I'm needing to change my top mounts. Has anyone done the fronts on a driveway with a basic socket set?If so how long did it take
& do I need anything apart from spring compressors & a torque wrench?? 
Top mount change
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BlackpoolMR2
- Posts: 269
- Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:10 pm
Top mount change
Since the weather looks good. I'm needing to change my top mounts. Has anyone done the fronts on a driveway with a basic socket set?
If so how long did it take& do I need anything apart from spring compressors & a torque wrench??
I'm needing to change my top mounts. Has anyone done the fronts on a driveway with a basic socket set?If so how long did it take
& do I need anything apart from spring compressors & a torque wrench?? -
going4the1
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 12:28 pm
- Location: Cleveland
Re: Top mount change
The main difficulty with be the drop-links. If original and in good condition they can be salvaged with care. The nut will probably be rusted but can be easily cut off from the ARB end. (they don't need to be removed from the strut end)
Do this first as otherwise you will definitely round the hex insert on the pin. The nut needs to be sliced using a junior hacksaw as shown. Slicing them like this works exactly like using a nut-splitter. the nuts can then easily be removed without damage to the pins. Obviously new nuts will be required.
It's possible that the inner race of the top-mount is rusted onto the damper shaft. Either a three-leg puller or a bit of heat will free it up easily. Aside from that make a note of the order of the felt pads on the tops mount and apply plent of grease.
You may need a breaker-bar or a short tube of scaffolding pipe to ease the nuts off the hub to damper connection.
Also the'cut out' on the top mount points to the rear of the vehicle when you reassemble.
The job will take you about 3 hours for both sides because of the rust difficulties. If the damper dust covers are a bit shabby then this is the ideal opportunity to swap them over (use originals from Mr T).
If original and in good condition they can be salvaged with care. The nut will probably be rusted but can be easily cut off from the ARB end. (they don't need to be removed from the strut end)Do this first as otherwise you will definitely round the hex insert on the pin.
The nut needs to be sliced using a junior hacksaw as shown. Slicing them like this works exactly like using a nut-splitter. the nuts can then easily be removed without damage to the pins. Obviously new nuts will be required.
It's possible that the inner race of the top-mount is rusted onto the damper shaft.
Either a three-leg puller or a bit of heat will free it up easily. Aside from that make a note of the order of the felt pads on the tops mount and apply plent of grease.You may need a breaker-bar or a short tube of scaffolding pipe to ease the nuts off the hub to damper connection.
Also the
'cut out' on the top mount points to the rear of the vehicle when you reassemble.The job will take you about 3 hours for both sides because of the rust difficulties.
If the damper dust covers are a bit shabby then this is the ideal opportunity to swap them over (use originals from Mr T).Re: Top mount change
Not sure if you can do it without removing the damper, possibly not.
So if you have to remove the damper you will definitely need a breaker bar to release the two bolts attaching it to the hub as they are torqued up something crazy, around 255Nm IIRC.
So if you have to remove the damper you will definitely need a breaker bar to release the two bolts attaching it to the hub as they are torqued up something crazy, around 255Nm IIRC.
Re: Top mount change
I have, took me 2 days the first time as I was a n00b and using basic tools. lol
Hardest parts for me were getting the hub bolts off(initially, until I got the leverage) getting the top mount nut off(mine was stuck on) and getting the damn hub to align with the strut when putting it back together, that was a nightmare spent hours on it, however the second time I had it off a mechanic mate came down and did it and we got it back on in 2 minutes lol, technique!
Add to your list some WD-40, you'll def want some of that lying about. 
Good luck. 
lolHardest parts for me were getting the hub bolts off(initially, until I got the leverage) getting the top mount nut off(mine was stuck on) and getting the damn hub to align with the strut when putting it back together, that was a nightmare spent hours on it, however the second time I had it off a mechanic mate came down and did it and we got it back on in 2 minutes lol, technique!
Add to your list some WD-40, you'll def want some of that lying about.
Good luck.
Re: Top mount change
Try and get the drop link off first as this will probably be the problem part as said before, soak them day before with plusgas or similar.
Lift the bonnet, try and loosen the center top mount nut while its on the car.
Then back into wheel arch undo the 2 x bolts what attach your suspension strut to the hub, both mr2's ive had ive put the ratchet over it or spanner and tapped it round with a hammer to loosen them worked every time.
So that leaves the brake line both mr2's ive had the bracket had a slit cut in it so could bend the bracket out of way to remove brake line.
Then that leaves the 4 x top mount nuts and it should slide out.
Never had to use spring compressors and managed to put them back together unaided suppose that just depends on the springs though.
If the centre top mount nut is stubborn take the whole suspension to a garage and get them to get the impact wrench on it it will come straight off and sure they will do it for price of a sandwich will only take them a few seconds.
Dont think ive missed anything but thats how i remember it, i managed it ok and im far from a mechanic.
Lift the bonnet, try and loosen the center top mount nut while its on the car.
Then back into wheel arch undo the 2 x bolts what attach your suspension strut to the hub, both mr2's ive had ive put the ratchet over it or spanner and tapped it round with a hammer to loosen them worked every time.
So that leaves the brake line both mr2's ive had the bracket had a slit cut in it so could bend the bracket out of way to remove brake line.
Then that leaves the 4 x top mount nuts and it should slide out.
Never had to use spring compressors and managed to put them back together unaided suppose that just depends on the springs though.
If the centre top mount nut is stubborn take the whole suspension to a garage and get them to get the impact wrench on it it will come straight off and sure they will do it for price of a sandwich will only take them a few seconds.
Dont think ive missed anything but thats how i remember it, i managed it ok and im far from a mechanic.
Re: Top mount change
Just buy some drop links and angle grind em off if there's no history of them being replaced. Trust me, you will save time and swearing!
Trust me, you will save time and swearing!Re: Top mount change
Agree with all above comments, the drop links can be a pain but a crack of the hammer on the joint (i was replacing them anyway) and a good soaking with WD40 worked for me. Lucky to have access to lots of good tools - this helps with drop links, top mount bolt and hub bolts (nice big breaker bar )
My pain in the backside was mounting the top mount and strut into the arch making sure top mount was correctly aligned with only one pair of small, child like, sausage fingered hands.
Make sure you know where the top mount'cut out' faces (towards rear of car iir) along with the spring cup facing 'out' (away from car)??
I think thats how it was? Good luck- one you have done one side you will be fine
(i was replacing them anyway) and a good soaking with WD40 worked for me. Lucky to have access to lots of good tools - this helps with drop links, top mount bolt and hub bolts (nice big breaker bar )My pain in the backside was mounting the top mount and strut into the arch making sure top mount was correctly aligned with only one pair of small, child like, sausage fingered hands.
Make sure you know where the top mount
'cut out' faces (towards rear of car iir) along with the spring cup facing 'out' (away from car)??I think thats how it was? Good luck
- one you have done one side you will be fine