Pinking/spitting??

james123 · Post by **james123** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 9:53 pm

I've recently changed the headgasket on my mr2 and I've got it running and it pulls nicely but it's pinking on acceleration and spitting abit when I back off the throttle, I've tried tweeking the dizzy abit but no change... Also it smells and uses quite abit of petrol quite bad when running and the idle bounces abit... Everything gets abit better when warm.

LimeyMk1 · Post by **LimeyMk1** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 10:47 pm

Pinking may indicate too high a compression ratio for the amount of advance you have on the ignition timing. But if you've retarded the ignition that should have sorted the pinking.

How much was taken off the cylinder head when it was skimmed?

1st thing I'd do is check the compression on the cylinders, on my high comp build it was 210 psi. (I think) That was a skim and a thinner head gasket. I had issues with that pinking.

Then make sure the fuel system isn't leaking anywhere, it's odd to have overfueling and pinking at the same time as usually the extra fuel helps stop that happening.

The hunting may be due to coolant needing another bleed.

Any error codes on the ECU? That'd indicate any sensor issues.

Post by **Lauren** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:19 am

What Chris says. Also check your timing properly.

SuperRedMR2 · Post by **SuperRedMR2** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:01 am

After mine was changed my EFI sensor connector broke and I had the same issues you are having. Stinking of fuel, bad, rough and bouncing idle.

Is your green connector plugged in properly?

james123 · Post by **james123** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 4:31 pm

Checked compression, it's 170 in all cylinders and thy with standard hg...
Retarding the dizzy just makes it run abit worse and burns alot off fuel (black smoke)
Is the efi connector underneath the coolant filler neck?? If so I checked it seems ok and it's defiantly plugged in, is there anymore I can do with it to see if it's working???
And no I haven't checked for error codes should this be my next step?

elbon50 · Post by **elbon50** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 4:35 pm

james123 wrote:Checked compression, it's 170 in all cylinders and thy with standard hg...
Retarding the dizzy just makes it run abit worse and burns alot off fuel (black smoke)
Is the efi connector underneath the coolant filler neck?? If so I checked it seems ok and it's defiantly plugged in, is there anymore I can do with it to see if it's working???
And no I haven't checked for error codes should this be my next step?

Yes, definately check for error codes James

Results could point you in the right direction

Peter

SuperRedMR2 · Post by **SuperRedMR2** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 6:40 pm

The EFI sensor is bolted onto the cylinder head, no.4 pot side.

james123 · Post by **james123** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:12 pm

Oright got you, I've tried in plugging then plugging it in when it was running and it didnt change the way it ran, does this mean anything??

james123 · Post by **james123** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 12:41 pm

Anyone know if that would be the problem if I un plugged and it made no difference? Could it just be a fuse or just the connector?

LimeyMk1 · Post by **LimeyMk1** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:55 pm

Is that with a cold or hot engine?

From what I recall unplugging when cold will result in no difference, doing it when hot will result in overfueling.

SuperRedMR2 · Post by **SuperRedMR2** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 2:04 pm

Cold or hot it had bad affects with mine. But when I plugged mine in it sorted it all out.

Is it undriveable with this current problem?

Ask Paul Woods as he helped me get to the bottom of my bouncing idle and over fuelling.

LimeyMk1 · Post by **LimeyMk1** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 2:12 pm

Ah, ok I know they're resistive sensors (resistance decreases with heat) but wasn't sure about the cold/hot map on the ECU and how it switched.

Have you got any error codes James?

elbon50 · Post by **elbon50** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 2:18 pm

Have you checked for error codes yet James?

Are you absolutely sure your valve timing is correct ?

Try a PM to Paul, as Alex suggested

Peter

james123 · Post by **james123** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:26 pm

It was when it was cold I did that, it's drivable just using to much fuel and sounding unhealthy....
I'll look for an error code tomorrow, never do it before but iirc correctly you just short the terminals and count the flashes on the dash??
Cheers

LimeyMk1 · Post by **LimeyMk1** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:46 pm

Yep bridge T & E1 terminals in the diagnostics box (or is it T1 & E).

elbon50 · Post by **elbon50** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:24 am

Limeymk1 wrote:Yep bridge T & E1 terminals in the diagnostics box (or is it T1 & E).

Yes E1 connected to T James

One flash every 4.5 secs is normal

Peter

jimi · Post by **jimi** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:27 pm

james123 wrote:
I'll look for an error code tomorrow, never do it before but iirc correctly you just short the terminals and count the flashes on the dash??
Cheers

How to and codes are here CLICKY

james123 · Post by **james123** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:16 pm

Thanks for the guide I'll get it done tomorrow!
What sort of wire do I need to short the terminals? Or can I use anything else??
Cheers james

LimeyMk1 · Post by **LimeyMk1** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:23 pm

Pretty much anything, I've used a hair clip before (not that I make a habit of wearing hairclips).

Post by **Lauren** » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:30 am

We have a paperclip that is used solely for that purpose.

www.imoc.co.uk

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