[Mk2] [Turbo] running in/break in new engine

[mr2barri]

hi just wondering whats the best way to run in a newly built engine the specs as follows

forged pistons 86.5mm
eagle rods
arp bolts and studs
mahle bearings
fensport gasket
precision 5431 turbo .63ar
bmic with 3" pipework

iv been given a diagram off a freind but it seems a bit excessive any help is appreciated,cheers

[Steve-O 2007]

Dont do what my friends stupid old neighbour did, Bought a new Honda, sales man told him to run it in for 500 miles so what does he do.... Drives around everywhere in 1st gear for 500miles!!! And then when he hit 500miles he started using 2nd gear!!! What a idiot!!! Blew the engine up and now its in honda for a new engine lol

[mark239]

TBH, a few high gear foot flat to the floor runs to give a high load will do a lot

Good article here

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm

[swaggansway]

don't do it....ok 4 a race car but I believe it will shorten the life of your engine.

how did you hone your bores?

[^Trickster^]

First 50 miles are essential, give it some boost and highish revs, i like to use 3rd gear say from 3000 to 6000 and let it engine break back down, the rings need cylinder pressure to bed them in well.

Best thing is to throw it on a dyno straight away realy.

If it spins a bearing its because its been machined/installed wrong, your only running in the rings and that requires cylinder pressure.

I have tried a few break ins with 3sgte builds, best ones were my previous engine which i gave plenty of revs and boost on way to dyno and had it mapped to 470hp, the block cracked on the outside which is a common thing, this engine never had less than 180si on all 4 cylinders for 20k of hard driving 1.6bar boost 8krpm

Rebuild using same pistons with new block replacing the rings, same again, been running strong for 5k miles 420hp 8krpm 180psi on each cylinder

Graeme

[Shmed]

What about mapping? I'm gonna have to run mine in at some point, and although my injectors haven't changed, my cams, turbo and head all have. Would I be best off getting it run in and mapped on the rollers at the same time? (sorry for the thread jack)

[^Trickster^]

very partial throttle to pull some boost in should be fine, if you havent changed your injectors im assuming you changed to a td06 or something similar?

Graeme

[swaggansway]

hopefully will be: rev2 long block with ct20b tubby, acr shells, wossner forged pistons, commetic head gasket, 3'' de cat and exhaust, boost controller and charge cooler!


so yes good point, mapping will be required

thanx guys

[Shmed]

very partial throttle to pull some boost in should be fine, if you havent changed your injectors im assuming you changed to a td06 or something similar?

Graeme

I had it mapped with 800's, only running about 50% duty iirc. I've changed to Gt3076 since the map, to be honest, the whole engine is different though. New forged bottom end, 264 high lift cams and the turbo to name the main changes (and rev 3 head instead of rev 2 but that won't make a difference to the map)

[dawesy]

ive always run mine in for 500 miles. just driving normally, thats not caning it everywhere but as you would day to day like any other road user.
never had an issue, rings have always been sealed.
its important to remember that you are NOT bedding in bearings etc these should never make metal to metal contact any way.
the only thing you are doing is sealing the rings.
so make sure the car is up to temp (water and oil) before any boost
make sure that for the running in period you only use mineral oil, i use millers running in oil as it does help protect the turbo.
once warm dont sit at a steady rpm, vary the load and engine speed.
sitting at 70 on the motorway wont do it any good.
and apply a little boost every now and then half a bar is fine as this helps push the rings against the bores.
dont allow the engine to idle while warming up for any length of time.
also i change the oil and filter after about 250 miles as well.
most of your ring cutting is done in the first 50 or so miles after that the hone in the cylinder looses its edge and the rate the ring cuts is slowed down.
thats what i do and i have had no issues with it but every one has their own way

[^Trickster^]

If its just a standard long block with a ct20 and stock ecu/injectors you wont need any mapping, just run it in and kick its head in.

Shmed: It doesnt matter about the bottom end unless you have change the compression ratio, the head will make a difference especially combined with cams and turbo as your completely changing the volumetic efficency of the engine.

Id still give it some partial throttle boost 7psi or so, just not wide open throttle, it should be fine, if you have a AFR gauge or a knock indication just keep an eye on it.

I changed to a GT3076R ages ago from a td06 which was mapped on 800s and I ran it low boost partial throttle until it was mapped, I run 1000cc injectors now.

Graeme

[Shmed]

I think I'll invest in an afr gauge, protect my assets! I have knock detection in the PFC, just need to remember to keep an eye on it. I think I will have changed the cr slightly as the pistons are 86.5 and apparent give 8.5:1, coupled with a skimmed head, decked block and rev 3 gasket. I thought the ve would change with the cams and turbo. I'll see how it all goes when I finally get it back together.

[^Trickster^]

Knock detection is pretty ok on the PFC, thats what I have, i generally see a max of 40 which is just noise not actual knock.

It will be fine get that baby running

Graeme

[swaggansway]

can someone pls explain 'knock sensor on pfc' I don't follow....I mean I know what knock sensors are for etc, but do you have a gauge ?

[swaggansway]

can someone pls explain 'knock sensor on pfc' I don't follow....I mean I know what knock sensors are for etc, but do you have a gauge ?

[Shmed]

You can view the knock level using the PFC commander, just reads it from the stock sensor

[swaggansway]

but wow they are expensive....is there any other way to keep an eye on knock?

[Century Motorsport]

Short bursts of throttle in early gears. No sustained loading.

After the first 50 miles most of the important stuff is done. After about 250 miles she's ready to go!

[Shmed]

but wow they are expensive....is there any other way to keep an eye on knock?

The PFC isn't a knock sensor/detection system, it's a fully programmable ECU with the function to show knock levels.

You wouldn't buy one just to detect knock.

That said, there are a few for sale at the minute, which, if they get their asking price, make my car worth 20% more than I paid, if you catch my drift. Expensive, yes, should be about £500-600 tops.

[Shmed]

And I think this will just detect knock:

http://www.mocomracing.com/product_deta ... =15&sub=33