Well for the second time now my rev 3 tubby wouldn't start earlier. I had just driven home from work, and I went out probably 20 mins later and it wouldn't start. I switched the ignition on and switched the immobilisor off and immidiately a clicking noise started from the engine bay. Under further inspection it appeared to be comming from under the inlet manifold area. On turning the key not alot happened apart from a bit of wurring. I was thinking maybe the starter was jammed, but then about a further 20 minutes later after unsuccessfully trying a few things it started without issue??
I'm still really new to these so any help would be appreciated!
[Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Dodgy starter motor relay?
I was going to say dead battery and dead alternator but then you said it started again when left for another 20 mins
I was going to say dead battery and dead alternator but then you said it started again when left for another 20 mins
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
this happened ta me aswell and it turned out ta be the battery.
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Hmmm i wondered about the battery, although it looks fairly new. I was gonna stick a multimeter on it last night but i couldn't bloody find it!! Lol
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Check the battery terminals to make sure they are tight and don't have crud build-up. Wouldn't have thought the battery was goosed if it started later. Otherwise the starter motor solenoid can give grief - poor design by Toyota. Just swap the motor for a 2nd hand one or, if feeling flush, have it refurbed. Don't think it will be the relay otherwise you wouldn't get the clicking of the engagement at all.
Jon
Jon
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Definately no build up of crud on the terminals. They look mint.
How much of a job is swapping the starter?? Also how much should i expect to pay for another/a refurb?
Thanks.
How much of a job is swapping the starter?? Also how much should i expect to pay for another/a refurb?
Thanks.
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Easy job to change starter motor - 30min job. Used ones go for around £25-
£30 and reconditioning costs around £50
£30 and reconditioning costs around £50
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
As above, it's an easy job. If you get stuck again before you get it swapped, stick it into gear and rock the car - hopefully the solenoid should align.
It goes without saying to rule out the battery first - check the voltage drop when cranking.
Jon
It goes without saying to rule out the battery first - check the voltage drop when cranking.
Jon
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Thanks alot for your help. I was gonna rock it last time but It was on my drive which is on a incline and i was worried if it wasn't that i'd not be able to get it back on the drive! Lol
I'll let you know how I get on over the weekend providing the MOT goes well today!
Ed
I'll let you know how I get on over the weekend providing the MOT goes well today!
Ed
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Passed the MOT with a new set of wipers!! Happy days!
Will have the starter off over the weekend and have a quick inspection!!
Will have the starter off over the weekend and have a quick inspection!!
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Ah yes, the old wiper trick (to keep their failure rate in the right ballpark).
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Lol... to be fair the wipers were pants i was gonna repace them anyway. And they were only £6 each!
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
The clicking noise you hear is because the voltage at the starter is dropping when you turn the key...
EG
Turn to Crank, Starter relay switches on and Energises the starter solenoid.
Starter solenoid pulls the starter gear into contact with the flywheel ring gear (That's the click).
The Second function of the starter solenoid is to activate a high current contactor that energises the starter motor when the gear is in place.
What's happening to you is that when the starter is energised, the voltage across the solenoid is dropping, causing it to disengage the gear and the contactor.
Of course once the contactor is open again, the voltage at the solenoid rises, and so it closes again.
The result is a rapid clicking as the starter gesr is pulled in and out repeatedly.
The usual cause is a flat battery, or a dead one (where a cell or two is short)
The other cause is a loose connection either at the Battery+ or the B+ bolt on the starter.
Also loose connections from battery- to Chassis, or Chassis to Gearbox.
Even 0.1 Ohms resistance at 100Amps results in a 10v drop out of 12!
If it's the Battery, the Battery+ or the Battery-Chassis -ve connection, the interior light will go out or flash when you try to start.
If it's a loose connection at the starter or Chassis-Gearbox, the interior light will not be affected.
Final word,
If you end up replacing the battery - GET IT FROM TOYOTA.
Not only will it be the correct size / way round
But in my experience, it will be noticeably cheaper and have a better guarentee than the likes of Halfords!!
EG
Turn to Crank, Starter relay switches on and Energises the starter solenoid.
Starter solenoid pulls the starter gear into contact with the flywheel ring gear (That's the click).
The Second function of the starter solenoid is to activate a high current contactor that energises the starter motor when the gear is in place.
What's happening to you is that when the starter is energised, the voltage across the solenoid is dropping, causing it to disengage the gear and the contactor.
Of course once the contactor is open again, the voltage at the solenoid rises, and so it closes again.
The result is a rapid clicking as the starter gesr is pulled in and out repeatedly.
The usual cause is a flat battery, or a dead one (where a cell or two is short)
The other cause is a loose connection either at the Battery+ or the B+ bolt on the starter.
Also loose connections from battery- to Chassis, or Chassis to Gearbox.
Even 0.1 Ohms resistance at 100Amps results in a 10v drop out of 12!
If it's the Battery, the Battery+ or the Battery-Chassis -ve connection, the interior light will go out or flash when you try to start.
If it's a loose connection at the starter or Chassis-Gearbox, the interior light will not be affected.
Final word,
If you end up replacing the battery - GET IT FROM TOYOTA.
Not only will it be the correct size / way round
But in my experience, it will be noticeably cheaper and have a better guarentee than the likes of Halfords!!
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Non-Start and clicking from the rear
Thanks alot for the reply. Will be having a good look at the battery and starter this weekend and will post up the results.
I've always used a local place for batterys and never had any trouble but if i go down that route will be carefull. Thanks.
I've always used a local place for batterys and never had any trouble but if i go down that route will be carefull. Thanks.