Changing front shock

[TheBaker]

Wondering, is it necessary to take off the calipers and wheel hub to remove and replace a shock absorber?

I understand the brake line needs to be disconnected so it can be taken out through the strut but apart from that is it necessary to take it off??

Some guides I've read do it but the one on here for the rear shock doesn't, is it just a space issue?

Spent about an hour yesterday trying to undo the caliper bolts but they wouldn't budge.(No access to blow torch, breaker bar etc)

If I don't need to undo them then that's good but the strut bolts are bloody stuck too.. Would a candle generate enough heat to help loosen it?

Also, is PB Blaster better than WD-40 for helping to loosen bolts? Any home conconctions that can do the same or better job also?

Cheers.

/broke

[toxo]

Remember rear hub has a driveshaft in it as well so the guides for front and rear will be different. Obviously you can't actually remove the strut without seperating it from the hub but I don't see why you'd have to remove the hub from the car. I can see why you might have to take a caliper off for access but it's been a while since I've been under there.

You don't have to split the brake line, you can cut through the tab that holds it to the strut and bend it open, and then just bend it back again after you're done.

[Blue_5]

Its not necessary mate, changed all 4 shocks recently.

If your planning not to cut the brake line brackets, i'd undo the lines from the calipers first to give enough freedom when the struts free, then the droplinks, loosen the top nuts and then the strut to hub nuts.

I had a strut fall onto my finger, hence leaving the top nuts on until your ready to take it off (yes it bloody hurt!)

Candle isnt going to give enough heat. The strut bolts/nuts will probably need a good bit of leverage - i used a couple of breaker bars.*

Once those are all free, the hub and caliper assembly can be pulled away and the strut can be pulled down and free (might need a bit of persuasion).

*well, not breaker bars as such, but two hollow dumbell bars from a weights set (and the barbell makes a good one too!)

Have you got a trolley jack? The handle on that is usually hollow - i have one that fits over a 3/4" ratchet.

[Mr2_NA]

Remember rear hub has a driveshaft in it as well so the guides for front and rear will be different. Obviously you can't actually remove the strut without seperating it from the hub but I don't see why you'd have to remove the hub from the car. I can see why you might have to take a caliper off for access but it's been a while since I've been under there.

You don't have to split the brake line, you can cut through the tab that holds it to the strut and bend it open, and then just bend it back again after you're done.

As toxo said, on the strut brake line bit, you will see a C-clip, pull this off and keep it safe.

get a dremal and cut a small section the size of the hose out (wrap up the line so you don't cut it!)

So then effectivly you can pull the line out the gap (away from the strut), re-fitting new shock, you will have to cut a gap if not there already, and then re-fit the C-clip holding the line onto the strut.

All mine were done making changing lines/struts so simple.

Modern coilovers already come with a gap.

and finally... You don't need to remove the hubs!

It is very fidily, the bolts are awkward to get to and when you do loosen them you may find that the caliper is in the way to get them out.

Whip caliper off and zip tie it up out the way and remove the disc, takes 2 minutes and will save your knuckles and a lot of swearing.

You'll need a socket and a spanner of same size to hold the nuts on the bottom of the strut once cracked it just takes some winding as they are large threaded.

May be worth having something underneath to support as it will drop when the top mounts undone.

Soak them in WD. They do come undone. i can't imagine a garage charging a fortune if you do get stuck though. Less than 30 minutes labour if they are not thick.

[TheBaker]

Cheers guys, I shall re attempt it, the dumbell/barbell bar is a brilliant idea, can't believe I never thought of that! GG

Hopefully that works..

Also, what about the spring, will that cause a lot of resistance when taking off and re fitting?

I'll have a blast again and report back.

Cheers again.

[TheBaker]

Well, so far so good, actually managed to get all the bolts loose with no major trouble..

But I've basically cut the bracket off that holds the brake line to the strut, should I saw it off completely?

Is this how it was meant to be done, seems like a pain in the ass if it was..

If I can't get the holder on can I just leave it on and put it in the new strut(I'll saw it through, bend it open, put the brake line in and bend it back into place?

Cheers.

[TheBaker]

Bump, how do I go about removing the top mount and spring from the strut and put it on my new one?

Hadn't researched this part now all this malarky of needing a spring compressor. Or to have done it before taking the strut off..

Any help appreciated ASAP please.

Thanks.

[toxo]

If you value your eyes and limbs, then you need a set of spring compressors. They are £15 from screwfix.

[TheBaker]

If you value your eyes and limbs, then you need a set of spring compressors. They are £15 from screwfix.

lol great, I took the 19mm bolt off at the top, isn't the spring meant to fly out?? How does the top mount/spring actually come off?

Cheers.

[JimmyTheKosh]

Presuming the shock is removed from the car now, just give the top mount a few taps with a hammer from the under side of it.
Oh and if you havent got the spring compressed, dont have the top mount facing you when your hammering it.

[TheBaker]

Presuming the shock is removed from the car now, just give the top mount a few taps with a hammer from the under side of it.
Oh and if you havent got the spring compressed, dont have the top mount facing you when your hammering it.

Cool, tried but it isn't budging, ill have a go again.

Also, the top mount is like loose and spinning about(even when the 19mm bolt was in) does this mean it's worn out?

Cheers.

[TheBaker]

Turning into a nightmare, top mount just won't come off(In one of the guides the guy says he had the same problem and just couldn't get it off so got new ones)

Not only that but I wanted to put the old shock back on but I can't even get it to align with the bloody hub(Sorry before when I said the hub I mistakenly meant the brake disc, got mixed up)

Tried using the jack to push up the arm and the strut but for some reason the hub won't align correctly with it.

Any ideas??

[Mr2_NA]

Undo the two bolts that attach it to the hub
Take brake line out
Undo drop links
Undo four bolts in the frunk

Sit on your ass and kick it just above the hub.

Falls straight out in one complete unit.

I didn't even touch the top mounts. Just the four bolts holding it to the strut top.

Is this an easier way? 6 bolts in total.

[JimmyTheKosh]

The top mount is supposed to spin so no problems there.
Seriously, if it doesnt wanna come off, hit it harder, top mounts are well known for seizing onto struts, plus i think its a tapered fit so its naturaly tight.
As for getting it back on the car, its fiddly but using a jack is the same way i did it, found it easier than using my spring compressors as they are a pain to undo once the shock is fitted.
Another method is jack the car up higher, prop something under the shock, or under the brake hose bracket on the side of the shock, and slowly lower the car untill you can get the shock lined up for the 2 big bolts.
Hope this helps

[Blue_5]

When i took a top mount off, i held the strut upright with a foot on the lower bracket, gripped the top mount with both hands, and wiggled it side to side while pulling, same method as getting a steering wheel off.

[TheBaker]

Undo the two bolts that attach it to the hub
Take brake line out
Undo drop links
Undo four bolts in the frunk

Sit on your ass and kick it just above the hub.

Falls straight out in one complete unit.

I didn't even touch the top mounts. Just the four bolts holding it to the strut top.

Is this an easier way? 6 bolts in total.

??

Falls straight out in one unit, including the top mounts... the four bolts are part of the top mount.

You were changing the whole shock inc top mounts with new ones??

I'm just replacing the shock absorber and putting the old top mounts on.

Not sure what you're getting at tbh.

Yeah the whole 6 bolts thing sounds easy in theory but it's not really the case and actually doing it provides a whole host of other issues. Doubt I'd have attempted it if I knew it was going to be this much of a pain.(And out the window goes thoughts of even trying a clutch change )



Good ideas again Jimmy , I'll have another blast at knocking the top mounts off, I was hitting it pretty hard with no luck, don't want to brake the thing lol.
Just seems as if I'm missing something, It's hard to believe the spring is meant to just fly out after the top mount bolt is taken off(which I didn't even know existed at first lol, I thought people were reffering to the 4 bolts, it was only after I investiigated further I found it and a bu88er it was to get off; much easier done when the strut is still on the car, indeed)

The main problem with getting the hub bolts to align in the strut is because the space between the strut bolt sections is really tight, I was thinking of hammering them out a bit of possible(if all else fails) ?

...So assuming I do get the top mount and spring off, will it be possible to get them on the new shock without the spring compressor?

Also, do I take all the materials off the old shock and put them on the new one, there is like a worn rubbery section at the bottom of the old shock and another rubbery bit that was up at the top mount that can be moved up and down the shock.

Be much appreciated if someone can answer these questions so I can get back to it and get it sorted...

If I do complete it, I shall write a noobs guide including the obstacles that may be faced upon the way.(Should do it for the ARB's too, they were a PITA)

Cheers guys and you're help is much appreciated.

[JimmyTheKosh]

If you havent got any spring compressors, its a good idea to get some mate, will make everything so much easier.
You can get the top mount back on without it, but like i say, will be easier with.
The rubber your refering to will probably be a split gaiter, would of origionaly coverd the whole length of the strut.

With the shock off, the hub should just drop down towards the floor, giving you enough room to get the shock back into position, get the 4 nuts loosly done up on the top mount so you can concentrate on getting the bottom end in place.
Personaly i used a hammer to get the 2 big bolt holes lined up again, but whether or not thats advisable is down to the individual.

heres a brief how to that might help

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&k=22

[TheBaker]

I see, so just so I've got this straight.

Now all I need to do is get the spring and top mount off the old shock and simply transfer them to the new one(and I should expect resistance putting the springs back on but once I get it on and the 19mm nut tightened it will be on completely and I simply put it into the car and put everything back together?

Basically, anything else not mentioned yet I should be aware of?

Cheers.

[Mr2_NA]

??

Falls straight out in one unit, including the top mounts... the four bolts are part of the top mount.

You were changing the whole shock inc top mounts with new ones??

I'm just replacing the shock absorber and putting the old top mounts on.

Thought you were doing it all as one!

no idea on just the shock

You will need a compressor though. Let us know how you get on.

Mine had holes in and were totally useless to replace any parts so put coilys on.

I've heard a few stories on springs launching into orbit and putting holes in roofs so watch out.

[gumbo_gts]

Undo the two bolts that attach it to the hub
Take brake line out
Undo drop links
Undo four bolts in the frunk

Sit on your ass and kick it just above the hub.

Falls straight out in one complete unit.

I didn't even touch the top mounts. Just the four bolts holding it to the strut top.

Is this an easier way? 6 bolts in total.

did it this way too worked fine for me on all 4 struts i then put the struts in a vice and used the spring compressor to put new ones on ..give the top mounts a little love tap and they will just come off,, just rem theres a pattern on the top mounts that needs to be facing the rear of the car

think its a triangle on the top mounts like i said needs to be faceing the rear