useing spray cans

[redmr89]

ive never really sprayed anything, but im fairly good with my hands so thought id try spraying my bodykit myself. searched the web for tips and found this....does it sound about right? any other tips?? cheers

step 1
Start by removing the part that needs to be painted. (You can also tape around it, but be careful about overs pray)

Step2
Sand the part with the 300 grit sand paper until the surface is a little rough. This is necessary for the primer to bond with the surface. After sanding wipe down the part with micro fiber cloth.

Step3
Lightly spray the part with primer. A few light coats are better than one heavy coat. Make sure to allow proper drying time between coats.

Step4
After a few light coats of primer have been applied, wetsand with the 800 grit sandpaper. After wet sanding, wipe again with micro fiber cloth.

Step5
Now it is time to apply the color. When spraying the spray paint make sure to use smooth even passes across what is being painted. Do not start painting on top of the part because the paint will be heavier in that area. When painting you want to press and release the button to the side of the product being painted. Again a few light coats are better than one heavy one and make sure to allow proper drying time between coats.

Step6
After you are satisfied with the color, wetsand with 800 grit sandpaper and then wipe with micro fiber cloth.

Step7
Now it is time for the clear coat. Spray the clear coat the same way as the spray paint. Only one or two light coats are needed. Allow the clear coat plenty of time to dry as this is the layer that you will see most. You don't want any fingerprints on your final surface!

Step8
After the clear coat has had more than enough time to dry, You now want to wetsand with the 800 grit, then the 1000 grit, then 1200, then 1500, and finally the 2000 grit sandpaper. This should remove any heavier spots in the clear coat and will polish your painted product up very nicely.

Step9
Next you need to remove the scratches left by the 2000 grit. For this you will need to buff the surface with rubbing compound.

Step10
Now you need to buff the surface with a medium cut polish to give the surface a nice glassy look.

Step11
Whether it be exterior or interior parts that have been painted, I always add a couple coats of wax to the surface. This acts as a protectant to the clearcoat and gives it a nice smooth feel and also helps repel dirt.

[redmr89]

nobody knows anything about spraying?? i was sure someone would hep me out.

[RST]

There's quite a few threads on here about DIY spraying. Search is your friend and turns up quite a few, just remember to click "searck for all terms".

[mattymr2]

good body work takes time and patience. using a spray can's a waste of time. i wouldnt bother.

[RST]

Well I wrote this the other night but sure I said it before (never finished it or edired it by the way so here it is).....

There’s a WHOLE heap of write-ups on using rattle cans on here, but here’s what I’d do….

Rub the panel / part down with a medium grade wet and dry to provide a key for the primer. Use a sanding block for flat surfaces, use your fingers round edges –or use one of those abrasive pads which look like brillo pad type pan scourers (can’t remember the name of them –they are NOT made from steel wool)
Thoroughly wash the panel using warm water, sponge and some mild soap or detergent.
De-grease the panel either using panel wipe or thinners. Do NOT use white spirit or turps.
Wipe the panel using a tack rag to remove any surface dust immediately before you start painting.
Make sure you are painting in a dry environment, air and panel temp between 20’odd and 25oC.
Always use an etch primer first, start spraying round the edges and any detailed parts. Then start filling in the large areas:
Always start spraying before you hit the first edge of the panel
Always stop spraying after you pass the last edge of the panel
Try to get an overlap between passes
Observe the flash-over time, I would put one layer, then wait accordingly and start the next layer with passes at 90deg to the first, then wait and repeat etc.
When you have a decent layer of primer you can apply a tracer, which is a very light spattering of a dark colour over the top. This is used so you can cut the primer back and you should have a smooth surface after the tracer has all gone. Leave it for 24h minimum to sure.
Choose a fine grade wet and dry, and get yourself a bucket of warm water and a bar of mild soap (plain –nothing else in it). You want to flood the panel with water, then soap it all up and start cutting back using the wet and dry paper using a block for the flat parts again.
When you have a nice smooth finish, stop, wash and de-grease again.
Applying the base or colour coat is the same as for the primer.

It’s up to you whether you want to cut the base coat back or not –I have always been told not to but I think it’s largely down to personal preference.

Apply the lacquer on top –but leave a minimum of 2 weeks before touching it as rattle can stuff seems soft as crap compared to 2k stuff.

..Thats where I’ll stop as I still haven’t mastered lacquering either with cans or HVLP.

Do NOT use sand paper or wire wool, and using soap with the water means all the dust just floats off the panel and you get a much smoother result. It makes life allot easirer. Using a sanding block helps keep even pressure when you’re cutting back.

Rattle can paint is very thin in comparison, so personally I’d want maybe 3 or four coats of primer and up to 5 coats of the colour. You just have to take your time, if it’s too cold you run the risk of it flaking off. If it is too damp the paint may cloud. If you rush, you run the risk of runs so hold back on the number of layers you apply at one time.

I always find I need to shake the cans for a few seconds every 3 or 4 passes on the panel (so maybe after 15-20secs spraying a 3 sec shake). You also need to make sure the cans are warm before you start. Part used cans can also be boosted by putting them in a bucket of warm water. As soon as you see a can spit just ditch it as it’s all over by then even if there’s paint left in it.

Spend 60% of your time prepping, 20% of your time spraying and 20% of your time getting somewhere decent to do it in IMO.

[craig]

good body work takes time and patience. using a spray can's a waste of time. i wouldnt bother.

I sprayed a rev 3 center panel with spray cans to a bodywork finish.

Wouldn't say they're a waste of time, good for small bits if you know what you're doing. I'd never spray car panel work with them though.

[mattymr2]

good body work takes time and patience. using a spray can's a waste of time. i wouldnt bother.

I sprayed a rev 3 center panel with spray cans to a bodywork finish.

Wouldn't say they're a waste of time, good for small bits if you know what you're doing. I'd never spray car panel work with them though.

fair enough for something like that if you can get a good finish. but its defo easier to acheive a decent finish with a gun. bigger than that you will struggle and it would of taken longer with rattle cans to do a center panel than it would with a gun.

[big_ron]

good body work takes time and patience. using a spray can's a waste of time. i wouldnt bother.

I sprayed a rev 3 center panel with spray cans to a bodywork finish.

Wouldn't say they're a waste of time, good for small bits if you know what you're doing. I'd never spray car panel work with them though.

fair enough for something like that if you can get a good finish. but its defo easier to acheive a decent finish with a gun. bigger than that you will struggle and it would of taken longer with rattle cans to do a center panel than it would with a gun.

I'll second that....my lad started off with cans, but eventually went on to buy himself a compressor and gun, lots of practice and swearing later he managed to do a very good job....have a look at spittinflames garage and you'll see what I mean.