4AGE Tuning

[IanParkhouse]

Sounds like a good time for me to give my 2 pence.


I've come to work this morning in my 4-age mk1, now it's still a great little engine and tuned would be fantastic, but having spent the last 3 weeks driving 1000 miles in my new 2zz engined car I can say the 2zz is everything I want and more! It's a fantastic engine.

Now the K20a is lighter and more powerful but it's also more expensive and a harder conversion.

Anytime I got cold feet while waiting for my conversion i just watched Mark's video (rexer2000)

[rexer200]

Yes now the 1zz, that's a terrible engine without question, worst unit Toyota ever made in my book.

Ahh, maybe I'm unfairly tarring the 2zz with the same brush as I thought the 2zz was a variation based on the 1zz? If I'm wrong, I'm happy to stand corrected.

Lauren, I've read your posts in the past, namely regarding standard size Mk1b brakes and how they’re good enough for the track. Your mails sound very plausible, you are very convincing and when I decided on refreshing my brakes I chose to go with your advice and ignores Paul’s. How wrong I was, £700 down the drain (new calipers, disc, pads, lines) and I still have rubbish brakes. Please do everyone a favour and if you don’t actually know about a topic, and clearly you have no clue about the 2zz, just keep quiet. Your misinformation makes it hard to obtain the truth and it tarnishes the majority of decent information on here.

[elbon50]

Yes now the 1zz, that's a terrible engine without question, worst unit Toyota ever made in my book.

Ahh, maybe I'm unfairly tarring the 2zz with the same brush as I thought the 2zz was a variation based on the 1zz? If I'm wrong, I'm happy to stand corrected.

Lauren, I've read your posts in the past, namely regarding standard size Mk1b brakes and how they’re good enough for the track. Your mails sound very plausible, you are very convincing and when I decided on refreshing my brakes I chose to go with your advice and ignores Paul’s. How wrong I was, £700 down the drain (new calipers, disc, pads, lines) and I still have rubbish brakes. Please do everyone a favour and if you don’t actually know about a topic, and clearly you have no clue about the 2zz, just keep quiet. Your misinformation makes it hard to obtain the truth and it tarnishes the majority of decent information on here.

That's very harsh Rexer. Lauren say what she thinks as we all do. No one is right all of the time

Paul Woods said recently that he doesn't actually know it all

Peter

[IanParkhouse]

Lauren

If I had a front engine RWD car I'd be buying a F20


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F20C_engine

[pk_090]

Yes now the 1zz, that's a terrible engine without question, worst unit Toyota ever made in my book.

Ahh, maybe I'm unfairly tarring the 2zz with the same brush as I thought the 2zz was a variation based on the 1zz? If I'm wrong, I'm happy to stand corrected.

Lauren, I've read your posts in the past, namely regarding standard size Mk1b brakes and how they’re good enough for the track. Your mails sound very plausible, you are very convincing and when I decided on refreshing my brakes I chose to go with your advice and ignores Paul’s. How wrong I was, £700 down the drain (new calipers, disc, pads, lines) and I still have rubbish brakes. Please do everyone a favour and if you don’t actually know about a topic, and clearly you have no clue about the 2zz, just keep quiet. Your misinformation makes it hard to obtain the truth and it tarnishes the majority of decent information on here.

Just out of curiosity what brake fluid discs and pads were you running? When it comes to brakes, everybody has different opinions, it all must depend on the circumstances the brakes are under, if your tootleing around country lanes then standard brakes would surfice, but if your hammering around oulton park i cant help but thinking about upgrading to some 6 pot D2 EVO replica brakes.

Alex

[AdamP]

if your hammering around oulton park i cant help but thinking about upgrading to some 6 pot D2 EVO replica brakes.

Alex

I wouldn't. There are much much better calipers out there that don't have the rigidity of a wet sponge.

[elbon50]

I have found stock brakes to be perfectly adequate for sprinting up to the present time with power & suspension still much as standard

Gutting the bias valve has helped a lot

As I develop the power & handling shall no doubt need to improve the brakes

Circuit racing is clearly a different ball game. Heat build up etc, etc

Peter

[Tiamat]

It all depends on what you are using the car for, if it just fast road use then the standard brakes are adeuqtae, even if you have put a larger engine in.

Paul will no doubt disagree....

But if you have put say a 3.0V6 in, they are not THAT much heavier then the "carved our of pig iron" 4AGE, certainly no worse than having a fat passenger in the car too.

Accordingly you are not changing the weight of the car so it should stop in approximately the same distance.

That assumes of course that you do exactly the speed limit everywhere and never misbehave!!

What you have the issue with, is track days or the higher speeds. Fitting a 3SGTE will enable you to take the car to a higher speed than the 4AGE can and as such you would want that extra braking power.

That said, I go with Paul's thoughts that if you are upgrading the engine then you should do the brakes too, since you are more likely to be tempted to drive quicker due to the power gains, as such a bit of extra stopping power is useful!

[PW@Woodsport]

Paul will no doubt disagree....

No, your post is pretty spot on Malcolm, all depends what the car is used for, couldn't agree more.

I'd always recommend some sort of brake upgrade with a heavier V6/3s-gte of course, seems silly not to given how easy and cheap the bolt on Celica upgrades are.

[Keri-WMS]

If you're sticking to the 4AGE format, the 1.8 7A bottom end is well worth a look for that much power, and especially if you don't want to up the cams to a higher rev range.

IF you do decide to build an all-steel bottom end then the 7A's slightly weaker rods become moot as well, so it makes even more sense. You might lose a bit of the revability but you'll get an increase in drivability.

1.6>1.8 will take a 128bhp engine up to 144bhp, all other things being equal.

And as for brakes, that's easy...

I never got my big-valve engine built (must do that) but this might be of interest: www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=129061

[Lauren]

Lauren, I've read your posts in the past, namely regarding standard size Mk1b brakes and how they’re good enough for the track. Your mails sound very plausible, you are very convincing and when I decided on refreshing my brakes I chose to go with your advice and ignores Paul’s. How wrong I was, £700 down the drain (new calipers, disc, pads, lines) and I still have rubbish brakes. Please do everyone a favour and if you don’t actually know about a topic, and clearly you have no clue about the 2zz, just keep quiet. Your misinformation makes it hard to obtain the truth and it tarnishes the majority of decent information on here.

Eh? Who are you?

Hang on a minute, whilst I admit my knowledge of the 2zz is not stella, I think I know enough about MK1's to comment on stock brakes.

I've raced MK1's on standard brakes, tracked SC's on standard brakes and this is over a hundred trackdays.

Stock Mk1 brakes working properly are absolutely fine with uprated pads.

So I do know about the topic thank you very much. I'm guessing I'm not the only one that has had no issues with stock brakes on track or on the road.

I would suggest you've done something very wrong with your brakes then. Maybe, you don't know what you are talking about? Just an idea like.