Strut Braces

[Stuart Davidson]

If I could make a suggestion about making a rear strut brace from scratch, why not go down the route I did and find a suitable bar that is already available and modify the ends to suit. Luckily, I live near to Demon tweeks so was able to go and see what is available.
The hardest part to make are the mounts that fit to the strut tops, but if you are thinking of making a few, then an investment in a a hole saw (about 76mm if I remember and not very expensive) would be a good option.
Cut the plates out and a bit of tidy welding (tig is best), go get them them powder coated for a really good finish (cheap as chips and loads more durable than painting) and thats it. My actual brace is alloy with steel mounting plates.
Haven't got pics to hand, but if you look on jimi's website on his jimi bracket page, you'll get the idea.
Whether it actually improves the handling is anyones guess, but if it's looks your after, why not?
The bar I used was off a subaru impretza something, never heard of them myself.
Stu.

[SuperRedMR2]

I can get the strut bits cut out on our laser at work

[MR2sRuleTheRoad]

Go for it I say Would be nice to have an alternative to £160 Cusco braces. I made one using some 4mm thick flate plate for the strut tops which a local engineering shop cut out for me and cost the princely sum of £5! and used some steel tube with rose joints at either end so you can screw them in or out a bit for adjustment.

[SteveM]

To the guys who've made their own bars (Stuart Davidson and MR2sRuleTheRoad) did either of your designs clear the underside of the engine lid without having to modify it? That's modify it as in hit it with an hammer which I don't really want to do

[MR2sRuleTheRoad]

I ended up selling the strut bar I made with a load of other bits when my first MR2 died, but I also had the Supercharger engine cover on that car so clearence issues were'nt a concern. It was an N/A by the way, wish I hadn't sold my strut brace now but needed all the cash I could get to buy the one I have now!

[jimi]

If I could make a suggestion about making a rear strut brace from scratch, why not go down the route I did and find a suitable bar that is already available and modify the ends to suit. Luckily, I live near to Demon tweeks so was able to go and see what is available.
The hardest part to make are the mounts that fit to the strut tops, but if you are thinking of making a few, then an investment in a a hole saw (about 76mm if I remember and not very expensive) would be a good option.
Cut the plates out and a bit of tidy welding (tig is best), go get them them powder coated for a really good finish (cheap as chips and loads more durable than painting) and thats it. My actual brace is alloy with steel mounting plates.
Haven't got pics to hand, but if you look on jimi's website on his jimi bracket page, you'll get the idea.
Whether it actually improves the handling is anyones guess, but if it's looks your after, why not?
The bar I used was off a subaru impretza something, never heard of them myself.
Stu.

Jimi

[Karl_T]

Interested in a good rear one, but I'm a bit worried about construction/design. The whole idea of a strut brace is to stop movement right? So the bar and fixings need to be as rigid as possible. That one in Jimi's post with two bends in, and the rod bolted to the end plates just looks like it's got designed in flex points.

The front one I've got is a dead straight bar between the two struts with the end plates welded to the bar. That's what I'd be looking for for a rear. A lot of what you see in some of these performance mags are little more than decor. Lovely coloured anodised bits on the ends and a nice floppy alloy bar in the middle. Pointless.

If we have to bend the rear one heavily to get it round the engine or rain channels then maybe there's just no point in a rear one.

Send me any sketches though, definitley interested if you can come up with something likely to be effective.

Karl_T

[Stuart Davidson]

[quote="SteveM"]To the guys who've made their own bars (Stuart Davidson and MR2sRuleTheRoad) did either of your designs clear the underside of the engine lid without having to modify it? That's modify it as in hit it with an hammer which I don't really want to do [/quote]

No modifications to the lid had to be made, just find the flattest bar you can find. If you can, find some shallower (poss nyloc?) nuts to bolt the thing to the strut tops as there's not a lot of stud left.

Thanks for posting the pics Jimi.

[Lauren]

Interested in a good rear one, but I'm a bit worried about construction/design. The whole idea of a strut brace is to stop movement right? So the bar and fixings need to be as rigid as possible. That one in Jimi's post with two bends in, and the rod bolted to the end plates just looks like it's got designed in flex points.

The front one I've got is a dead straight bar between the two struts with the end plates welded to the bar. That's what I'd be looking for for a rear. A lot of what you see in some of these performance mags are little more than decor. Lovely coloured anodised bits on the ends and a nice floppy alloy bar in the middle. Pointless.

If we have to bend the rear one heavily to get it round the engine or rain channels then maybe there's just no point in a rear one.

Send me any sketches though, definitley interested if you can come up with something likely to be effective.

Karl_T

You have to wonder how much point there is in a rear strut brace when the strut towers are in such close proximity to a bulkhead.

[SuperRedMR2]

ive got the profiles cut for the bits that attached to the strut studs. Got some flat bar in my car ready to be bent. it looks a bit rough at the moment but will get there.

[SuperRedMR2]

Its been a long time since I last looked at this!

I bought a cusco strut brace last week from the Bay, and I have drawn it up on autocad already as it was delivered only this morning!

I know of an engineering firm nearby to me that can get the machined bits done and I can buy the tube in from a supplier in Southend who I am friends with through work.

Material:
1" Dia Aluminium Tube with a 2mm wall (self colour finish)
MS to pick up on strut nuts (in car) (powder coated)
M10 bolts to hold it together

The Aluminium tube will be tapped inside approximately 55mm in both ends. The machined part will be approximately 18mm diameter machined from an aluminium bright bar with a hexagonal piece and hole drilled.

Please find autocad drawing showing what I mean.

This wont be exactly like the cusco one as ill be done for copying! So ill try and get a proto type made before hand!

[Karl_T]

OK, looks interesting. The insert you're sticking in the end of the ali tube you're saying is also going to be aluminium. I think the external thead may be OK but are you using an M10 into the end ot this to hold the mount loops on? I'd be tempted to make the insert out of steel. Ali isn't great for threads and cyclical loading. M10 is pretty big but I'm guessing though the movement at the strut top may be low the loads possibly aren't.

Either that or use a blimmin long M10 bolt.

But certainly a more convincing design than the cranked one. Does it clear everything? Engine and lid?

Karl_T

[SuperRedMR2]

The machined insert will be made out ally same as the tube, same as my cusco brace.

The strips welded to the loop that picks up on strut bolts are made of mild steel. May use an M8.

[SuperRedMR2]

this is for the front for the time being mate

[SteveM]

I'd still be very interested in one of these

[ligertigon]

I have access to data loggers (vernier), and using various sensors could monitor flex between these strut points on my vehicle. (pressure or sonic).


How the difference, if any, translates to handling is someone else's job if one doesn't notice!

Anyone want me to log it ?

[SuperRedMR2]

Bearing in mind the silly amount that company's charge for a new cusco brace or anything other known brand name for this product, what are people willing to spend?

[LimeyMk1]

You have to wonder how much point there is in a rear strut brace when the strut towers are in such close proximity to a bulkhead.

Doesn't make a difference in the coupe according to Malcolm but it made a difference in my T-bar.

[System-G]

You have to wonder how much point there is in a rear strut brace when the strut towers are in such close proximity to a bulkhead.

Doesn't make a difference in the coupe according to Malcolm but it made a difference in my T-bar.

The John Light one I fitted to my old track car (coupe) made immediate noticable difference. Well at least in my head to justify buying/fitting it

[LimeyMk1]

You have to wonder how much point there is in a rear strut brace when the strut towers are in such close proximity to a bulkhead.

Doesn't make a difference in the coupe according to Malcolm but it made a difference in my T-bar.

The John Light one I fitted to my old track car (coupe) made immediate noticable difference. Well at least in my head to justify buying/fitting it

Same as the one Malc and I have/had fitted G.

Will have to give the one I've got a go on Cassi's car.