[Mk2] [Turbo] Brake conversion (your toughts on my idea please)

[oddshoes]

Hello all

I have been thinking about changing my breaks for a while know I have already had uprated the disks from the standard ones. The revision 1 doesnt have the best brakes out of the all the mk2 revisions and it is quite commmon for the rev1 to be changed to the rev2+ brakes, what I am thinking about doing over the winter period is changing my brakes too something like a set of 200sx or even possbably supra breaks. My thinking on this is that both have a 5 studs hub with a PCD of 114.3 so they should be a rather simple fit and I will still be able to keep my alloys as they can be ran within a 16inch alloys.
Also if they can stop 200's which have the same sort of power but a bit more weight than an MR2 they should be good enough. Or even brakes that are used to stop supras should be good as they will give the potentional for the power to be increassed out of the 3sgte lump without the breaking being effected to much in my mind with the weight of the 2's being lighter than supra

Your thought please on this matter

Dave

[JAP BOY]

Check the knowledge base mate for the supra brake conversion think most people opt out of doing this as there are a few ssues

[HighwayStar]

Just do the rev2 conversion with braided lines Dave. After 3 mths with it I reckon it's all you need. Spend the money saved on top class pads... probably carbotechs are best from what I've read.

R

[mattcambs]

yep - do the rev2 conversion. Plain discs, braided lines and Carbotech pads. You'll nowt need anything better

200SX (S14) weigh about the same as a mk2 MR2.

[raptor95GTS]

doing something different and fit bigger than rev2 brakes or just plain better. s14's can fit 315mm discs and come with 4 pot calipers as standard no?

[Driftlimits Performance]

The trouble it's worth Dave we shoudl just jam the rev2+ stuff on. Unless you want to do something natty, in which case we need to talk

[oBladeo]

I was going to do a conversion to the hux racing a bit back and decided against it. As they don't have rubbers on the pistons.

I picked up a full set of brakes from a rev2 off ebay for 140 delivered
Inc the pads and disks which i thought was a bargin

[Leakie Tbar]

I have supra 4 pots on from supra 330mm discs,

[blutak]

I've got some 4pot 'bishi gto front brakes (313mm version) for mine sat waiting for me to make up some brackets when i get chance, only drawback is that I need to look at the rear brakes too or the braking balance will be thrown out of the window.

[HighwayStar]

S'pose at the end of the day it depends on how much power you want to run and why. If you think it's worth it going bigger go bigger.


R

[raptor95GTS]

i'm hoping the ABS sorts out any issues when I upgrade the fronts (funds permitting will upgrade the rears in future too), besides as the resident track drivers tell us we only ever brake in a straight line so balance is not a knife edge

unless you trail brake
unless you overcook it
unless some dozy fart pulls out on a roundabout... and stalls

[HighwayStar]

exactly... and have to say that's why I wouldn't want to play with the balance... the rear can have a mind of it's own occasionally (mostly dependent on attitude and road surface/camber) and I don't think I'd like to increase that frequency..
Just my twopeneth...

R.

[cantfindausername]

I have supra 4 pots on from supra 330mm discs,

How did you adapt them to the MR hubs? Do you have an adapter plate?

[Sharpey]

For circuit use you can adjust the balance by using compounds with different Cf values I have found Wilwood Dynapro calipers with Poly B or Poly C pads up front work well with standard rear calipers using Carbotech XP 10 pads this keeps the bias away from the rear when trail braking.

[Leakie Tbar]

I did two diffrent ways adapter plate and re welding the hub mounts,

[skinthespin]

Chaps,

I have Celica GT4 WRC callipers on the front of my car with Lexus 313mm discs and have done quite a few track days with them, they never ever fade (apart from the last day where I ran out of pad and caught fire!) but the balance is all over the place, worse than that is the pedal movement has increased over the 2 pistons sliding calipers.

this is because you are having to displace much more fluid now compared to before, so ideally I need a bigger master cylinder too, heel and toeing is quite difficult at the moment due to this.

Also the rears are very over worked as I am pushing the pedal so hard to get the fronts to work the rears are over working, so I need bias control to limit the fluid to the rear, I have heard problems with drag though using a simple bias valve.

if you want the best performance and are never going to run on proper slicks I would say rebuild the standard callipers with some good pads like carbo tech, if you want the bling go for size, as that matters!

[raptor95GTS]

skin, I was wondering what the rears would do with all that extra fluid filling the front calipers... Guess that answers that question then. Just how bad is the balance? Does it try and swap ends?

A supra ABS Master Cylinder will reduce the travel on the pedal, it's a 1inch bore.

[RabRS]

Why not just get some Rev2+ stuff and uprate the discs/pads?

[Sharpey]

If you use a 4 pot caliper with the correct piston bore size there is no problem with balance or excess pedal travel

[Kenny-Boost]

Chaps,

I have Celica GT4 WRC callipers on the front of my car with Lexus 313mm discs and have done quite a few track days with them, they never ever fade (apart from the last day where I ran out of pad and caught fire!) but the balance is all over the place, worse than that is the pedal movement has increased over the 2 pistons sliding calipers.

hi mate, what was involved in fitting those disks and calipers?