[Mk2] [NA] New to the MR2 World - My Mr. Two Track Car Project

[Mikey P MR2]

yeah 154 and 158 sorry

[Alex B]

A difference of 62bhp between the fly and wheels sounds a lot to me, some dyno, some places just guess this others calculate it by letting the rollers bring the car to a standstill. Sounds like they might have just guessed this using a standard formula which does not take into accounts the mr2’s lower than average transmission loses.
I would have thought about a 40bhp difference is more likely.

I've just been reading up elsewhere, the BP figure is Barometric Pressure so that's not the @ the wheels figure. Bit annoying that the graph doesn't show the actual wheel vs. the estimate/calculated fly.

Either way, it's pretty strong for a 130k mile car!

[Alex B]

All other plans sounds good and look forward to reading about the updates. I am also fairly sure rev 1 and 2 cars only have 254 and 258 bhp depending on if they have a cat fitted or not.

Also meant to say, the guy was pretty adamant about it being spec'd at 164bhp. Will have to research some.

[Alex B]

See in this pdf document on the Parker site, it states 168bhp for the GT

https://secure.parkers.co.uk/secure/con ... f/3908.pdf

[Alex B]

OK, so while trying to tiptoe around "The Great Tyre Debate" does anyone have any opinion on Toyo T1-S Tyres.

T1-R


T1-S


As far as I can see the difference isn't 'great' in appearance, user experience information is welcome.


I'm being offered a good deal on them with a set of Rota rims in staggered configuration and want to know if I will be shooting myself in the foot with the choice.

[Alex B]

OK, so a little niggle with the engine is making itself more pronounced.

When cold the engine seems to mis-fire, I've just discovered in the wet it was misfiring really bad.

I had a listen in the engine bay and I could hear an electrical clicking/sparking noise. Sounds like it's arching out somewhere. Are MR2s prone to that sort of thing?

I'm hoping it's something simple like a lose earthing connector.

[Alex B]

Here are the promised pictures pre-modifications.

It's not the best motor in the world but it isn't the worst either! I gave up waiting for more good weather.







I assume this is the standard exhaust, confirmation would be good though?


Interior could have been worse


Some work required in here!

[3sgte]

misfire i would guess is damp in the dizzy cap , make sure there is a rubber seal between the cap and the dizzy they often get lost on services .

exhaust looks like a mongoose ,although i'm no n/a expert

[Alex B]

exhaust looks like a mongoose ,although i'm no n/a expert

Can anyone else confirm this please. Bit of a pain if it is as I was planning to replace it with something new and shiny, instead I'd have to think about tidying it up lol.

[Alex B]

exhaust looks like a mongoose ,although i'm no n/a expert

Can anyone else confirm this please. Bit of a pain if it is as I was planning to replace it with something new and shiny, instead I'd have to think about tidying it up lol.

I've just been chatting to my local mechanic, he says he's pretty sure it's not a standard exhaust and further to the point, the cat is in fact a de-cat pipe. I guess it wasn't so standard after all!

Problem is there's a fair amount of rust around the brackets, I could feasibly keep the back box but the de-cat+ will all have to be replaced.

The electrical/mis-fire issue was due to arching on the HT Leads, which I will replace soon enough.

[Alex B]

OK, so not alot happening over the Bank Holiday weekend. I've booked some work in for next week however and I'm waiting for a call back from Rogue on some bits and pieces.

Next week, my window wasn't winding down correctly which was basically due to a sheared regulator plate which is going to be sorted on Wednesday, for now... the blocks of wood will have to suffice! lol

Wed. or Thursday I'm having the cam cover removed, the leaky gasket replaced and the cover itself de-gunked in preparation for the KV85 Leads and IGK Sparks. If there's time I'll also be getting a Power Enterprise Induction kit.

I'm hoping I can nab the TRD Struts and Springs from SW20Paul on here which will save me a few quid in lowering and sorting the suspension. While it's not quite the best option to go for, I feel this is a happy break-even for now.

The next thing is the fleabay exhaust system, which is a bit of an unknown but I'm thinking of giving it a shot:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MR2-SW20-N ... dZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MR2-SW20-N ... dZViewItem

After I've done all this I will be getting the car Rolling Roaded at the same place again to understand what gains (if any :/ ) have been made in changing these bits.

On the wheels front, I've decided on Falken FK-452s. I was in too much of a puzzle over the Toyos and others I decided to go with a tyre I've had experience of before. The wheels themselves will be:

Rota Torque 7.5 x 17 Front (215/40)
Rota Torque Drift 9 x 17 Rear (245/35)

Hopefully will have some pictures of the changes by next weekend. Opinions welcome.

[Alex B]

OK, it's been a bit slow going of late due to me making trips back home to Plymouth frequently and my mechanic having problems getting bits, more on that later!

So what has been done, well, not a lot I'm afraid to report but basically my driver side window would wind up and down properly, which has now finally been fixed!

I thought the window had merely come out of the scissor bracket but what had actually happened is the regulator plate had sheared off at both it's fixing points! w00t! Then I had to wait a week for that to arrive.

The next job was the Rocker Cover gasket, as you can see from the earlier engine bay photo, it had clearly gone and was making a real mess of things. However, this was not to be as clear cut as one might expect!

First gasket received from the factors... hmm, not right... second gasket received... still not quite right! In the end we had to go to Toyota to find out that my revision 1 car has (how I understand it) a revision 2 engine!?!? Apparently it was such a late Rev 1 they started putting the newer engines in them. Anyhow, finally the right gasket arrives and the rocker cover gasket has been treated to a clean up.

At the same time, the NGK Iridium Spark Plugs I ordered from Rogue Motorsport have been fitted, but I ended up having to fit the leads myself due to time etc, not a big deal, those were also sourced from RM.





I also ordered a Power Enterprise Induction kit, but this won't arrive for 3 weeks or so. In addition to this I have a full set of Carbotech brake pads which I will attempt to fit this weekend if I can get around to it. Both also sourced from RM.

That's about it for now, hopefully the wheels will be along this month!

[Extubby]

Good progress there, keep up the good work.
Sorry, I bought the TRD struts and springs.

[Alex B]

Good progress there, keep up the good work.

Cheers

Sorry, I bought the TRD struts and springs.

No worries, I decided pillow ball and coilovers is the solution for me anyways

[Leon.]

Falken 452's do have very good reviews by owners on here, between F1s and T1-Rs I personally vouch for F1s - for road use. If you're doing lots of track days, an option might be to have a second set of second hand 16" rims with Toyo R888s on, for really good dry grip, and tyres which don't overheat - you'd then have a set for road, and one for track. FWIW T1-Rs replaced T1-Ss, which were even more 'wallowy' (sp?)

A lot of things have been covered already, my 2p:

Brakes - depends on budget really. Unless you can afford a big brake kit front and rear the consensus is rev 2+ discs and pads and carbotech pads. But note with the carbotechs, brake dust and noise (if not used hard) are the cons. Braided hoses and dot 5.1 are recommended, as everyone has said.

Wheel/tyre sizes - spot on

Exhaust etc, seems like that's getting sorted

Filter, it does seem the stock filter does just as good a job if not better as aftermarket ones. If you go aftermarket you will lose a bit of low down torque, but improve throttle response / 'smoothness'.

Suspension - good choice with the coilovers. The problem with Konis are that most people replace the springs as they're not stiff enough, so you end up paying as much as coilovers, esp. if you buy new topmounts separately too.

Agree with ARBs and a full set ot polyurethane bushes - I can recommend the High and Tight ones. Yes you can also get PU engine/gearbox bushes/mounts but you may increase vibrations to the cabin, depends what's important.

Look forward to your progress

[Ayrton]

My 2P:
Forget the 17s unless you are rich & want blingy wheels - heavy, worse handling.
I have tracked a set & gone back to 15s (enkei lightweight).
Whoever said 15s cook your brakes is wrong - people race on 15s.
I've just done the ring & spa with no problems on 15s with standard brakes & yellowstuff pads.
The feel is better on 15s, grip will be as good with a decent set of tyres, & tyres are much cheaper.
If you go coilovers 17s will make it feel far too hard on the road & it'll tramline more.
Tyres are important - just changed from R888 to Hankook RS2 trackday tyres, R888s don't last long - I did a set in in 2 trackdays.
You've got the brakes covered, so just suspension - I went for a second hand set of Tein HAs - great on track, too hard really for the road - depends what you can put up with, mines mainly a track car.
Poly bushes good idea if yours are worn (probably if original).
Engine/Ecu all a waste of time/money, just service it properly.

See you on track soon.
Mark

[Alex B]

Understand the comments on the rim sizes, while I want it to be a good track weapon I do want the rims to look kinda nice too

However, I did struggle to find 15"/16" in the widths I wanted and for reasonable money unfortunately, which is why my current choice is the one I'm probably going with.

[SW20Paul]

Understand the comments on the rim sizes, while I want it to be a good track weapon I do want the rims to look kinda nice too

However, I did struggle to find 15"/16" in the widths I wanted and for reasonable money unfortunately, which is why my current choice is the one I'm probably going with.

Stock REV2+ wheels with stock size tyres will be spot on for track days.

You can really upset the handing on a 2 with a bad set of wheels.

Stock wheels are pretty light too

[mrfil13]

That does look like a mongoose, give it a polish


From what i have read getting a mapped ecu on the NA gives very little gains with only a few minor mods (exhaust,induction etc) i think you will need to go into the realms of cams etc to get decent gains on the NA.

Don't know if anyone has mentioned it but thicker antiroll bars like trd or whiteline are supposed to give the car a very nice boost in handling.


Good luck

Oh Mongoose + induction on an NA sounds niiiiiice

[Alex B]

That does look like a mongoose, give it a polish

Hehe, I have planned to remove this system at the moment, as the de-cat pipe (also a mongoose I believe) has rotten at the main pipe end and is now blowing. As I'm getting a new manifold and main/down pipe aswell, it makes sense to remove the lot.

The system I am going for will remove the cat pipe section altogether thus making for a lighter system (albeit a small weight saving on that front.)

From what i have read getting a mapped ecu on the NA gives very little gains with only a few minor mods (exhaust,induction etc) i think you will need to go into the realms of cams etc to get decent gains on the NA.

That's the plan, eventually.

Don't know if anyone has mentioned it but thicker antiroll bars like trd or whiteline are supposed to give the car a very nice boost in handling.

This is also planned. Although unsure if it will be done before the Nürburgring or not. Possibly for Trax though.

Good luck

Thanks

Oh Mongoose + induction on an NA sounds niiiiiice

I'm looking forward to removing the double air box (more weight saving... yay!) and the new system. Should sound pretty good. I might need to source an ECV though to make sure I don't exceed noise limites on some tracks.