[Mk2] [Turbo] Low oil pressure at idle-1400rpm (new build)

[greeny]

Hi all,

Fired up my new engine today to bed in the cams.

But for some reason the oil light will flicker on and off at anything from idle-1400rpm, anything above and its fine.

Theres plenty of oil in the sump and oil is p1ssing out of the hole in the head where the oil sensor goes as i quickly fired it up with it removed, so theres oil getting up top.

Now the spec/ve of my engine has changed significantly from the map its idling on.

As such It hunts around on idle from 500-1300~rpm and this is when the oil light will flicker from on-off, off@~1300rpm.

Also should the oil light go off when the plug is pulled off the sensor? as mine does and in my way of thinking i woud of thought it would of brought the oil light on?

Any ideas people?

some spec if of any use:

2.2l hks stroker kit,
Block girdle,
Shimmed oil-pump (MCS),
HKS 272's high lift,
Morroso oil sump.


Michael.

[cantfindausername]

Michael, I wouldn't trust the stock light.

Get a proper gauge hooked up so you can see figures.

My thoughts would be that if the sensor is unplugged it would bring the light on, but then again, it could be the opposite of that. Could do with someone testing it. Possibly a call to 3S or someone who can quickly nip out and check what it does on a working car.

The only other thing I can think is that its something to do with the oil pump. If there was too much oil, I would think pressure would be high. Does the block girdle affect the dipstick reading at all?? An extra 3/8" on the moroso sump would be about 2 more litres lol

The pump is the only thing on your build that would affect the pressure, apart from the girdle, which is the potential unknown quantity in this equation.

Glad you've got it fired up though

[greeny]

Michael, I wouldn't trust the stock light.

Get a proper gauge hooked up so you can see figures.

My thoughts would be that if the sensor is unplugged it would bring the light on, but then again, it could be the opposite of that. Could do with someone testing it. Possibly a call to 3S or someone who can quickly nip out and check what it does on a working car.

The only other thing I can think is that its something to do with the oil pump. If there was too much oil, I would think pressure would be high. Does the block girdle affect the dipstick reading at all?? An extra 3/8" on the moroso sump would be about 2 more litres lol

The pump is the only thing on your build that would affect the pressure, apart from the girdle, which is the potential unknown quantity in this equation.

Glad you've got it fired up though

Hi ant,

The way id of thought that if the oil sensor had the lead/wire unplugged from it then you'd want the light to come on to let you know the problems there bur on mine it makes the light go out when unplugged if its right its a bit backwards from toyota if you ask me.

Anyone want to go unplug theres for me?

I had an oil pressure gauge but has given up the ghost got a new one on order so will report back with an accurate reading.

Does anyone know what pressure the oem should switch at?

I too was thinking the oil pump, as its been shimmed on the relief valve, im wondering whether the spring rating is too low or to that affect hope not!

The block girdle comes with a spacer of equal thickness of the girdle for the oil pickup which should keep it equal. The dipstick will then be 1/4"~ higher than the actual true reading as its un-altered.

I tried topping the oil upto the full mark on dipstick which should be above full in reality, (dipstick should read the thickness of the block girdle less?).

Theres definately oil getting up top as i removed the sensor and it shot out alot of oil in a couple of seconds.

All the bearings/clearances were spot on, on the tight side of toyotas clearances.

Im a bit miffed!

Michael.

[teazer82sr]

the way you say flickering, this could possibly be a relif valve problem

[greeny]

the way you say flickering, this could possibly be a relif valve problem

This is my thoughts aswell although i hope not!

I suppose i'l have to wait till my new oil pressure gauge comes to get an accurate reading

[teazer82sr]

i wouldnt think of it as a masive problem, itll just be something silly, possibly needs a stronger spring in the relif valve. does the oil light come on when ticking over

[greeny]

i wouldnt think of it as a masive problem, itll just be something silly, possibly needs a stronger spring in the relif valve. does the oil light come on when ticking over

As its on its previous map and my VE has changed considerably it hunts on idle anywhere from 500-1300rpm.

So the oil light comes on at low rpm on idle then goes off at circa 1200/1300rpm then back on.

The oil pump has been shimmed up to actually up the pressure!

This is the oil pump:

http://store.mtbuggies.com/product_info ... cts_id=277

[cantfindausername]

you could lop a 1/4" off the dipstick pipe too I guess to drop it down, but as long as you'll be doing all the oil fills, then there isn't really a need to I guess as you'll be aware of where to fill to.

My thoughts are definately with the oil pump. Unless there is a restriction in the oil galleries? Possibly round the oil cooler/filter area? This would result in greater pressure prior to the blockage, with a low pressure reading above that would it not?? Do you have any external oil cooler or anything like that which could cause an issue?

[greeny]

you could lop a 1/4" off the dipstick pipe too I guess to drop it down, but as long as you'll be doing all the oil fills, then there isn't really a need to I guess as you'll be aware of where to fill to.

My thoughts are definately with the oil pump. Unless there is a restriction in the oil galleries? Possibly round the oil cooler/filter area? This would result in greater pressure prior to the blockage, with a low pressure reading above that would it not?? Do you have any external oil cooler or anything like that which could cause an issue?

Still on the stock oil cooler. I blew through every galley with compressed air when cleaning and assembling the block to make sure they were clear too.

Hopefully my new gauge will be here tommorow so i can eliminate whether its a stock sensor/wiring problem.

Really dont want to have to strip the thing again! would rather bin the bloody thing!!

[cantfindausername]

I know thats an idle threat. You have to get to the bottom of this and fix any issues. I've been in a similar situation with my car mate.

Got the engine started and running sweet, then had 3 months of fvcking about trying to get the clutch working. Involved 2 more engine drops and a complete array of new and trial parts.

You will win in the end, don't lit it beat you.

[Century Motorsport]

I would say you would never want to see less than 1 bar on idle.

Im my experience, if the stock oil pressure light comes on - its too late.

I wouldnt even start it again until you have you aftermarket gague on then you can monitor it closely... you never know - you may have a dud pressure sendor!

If the motor is built right (which it sounds like it is!) you shouldnt have a prob - so fingers crossed for the sensor!!!

Nathan

[nisnos]

must say with all the money you've put into it greeny that im surprised you dont have a proper gauge in there buddy.
Hope you get it sorted buddy
maybe youll make pod on sunday

[greeny]

must say with all the money you've put into it greeny that im surprised you dont have a proper gauge in there buddy.
Hope you get it sorted buddy
maybe youll make pod on sunday

Dave, i did have a aftermarket sender/gauge but it gave up working! shows 7 bar without the engine on

Got another on the way so will know precisely whats happening.

Apparently the stock sensor swithches at only 5 psi, which is bu88er all!

Will hopefully have another look tommorow if my gauge comes.

As for the pod, im a VERY long way from getting there yet!

Michael.

[nisnos]

bloody gremlins get everywhere!