[Mk2] [Turbo] Can you just unplug uni chip

[afennell]

Having a few problems and want to eliminate the uni chip. Can these just be unplugged and all go back to standard?

[simmo490]

yes mate, unwire and re solder the origional wires together

[paul port]

this depends if the installer advanced the ignition timing when installing the Unichip in the first place!

Note - it is usual to advance the timing then retard to stock with the unichip. This way, the mapper can advance timing in the map if required.

Bypassing the Unichip without re-checking the timing could lead to problems

paul.

[afennell]

Thanks,

I was not wanting to re-solder, just temporarily unplug the uni chip and go for a little drive to see if I still have my problem.

Is this okay? I under understand about the timing issue.

Thanks for your help lads.

[BenF]

Short answer - try it and see

If the installer has cut the ignition timing and fed it to the Unchip, so it can control it, the car won't start as there will be no spark.

[simmo490]

if i remember there are 2 wires that are cut and fed through the uni chip, so no it wont run

simmo

[afennell]

I thought there might be.

Could the uni chip be causing my problems.

Intermittently the rev counter dies and the car starts to become unresponsive and cough and splutters?

[simmo490]

to be honest mate your best speaking to some one like paul port for that but that does not sound like a chip problem to me

[afennell]

Just when the sun starts coming out my car brakes.
Never mind, moving house on Wednesday and have this one has a garage, so no excuse to start finding out whats going on.

Thanks for your help.

[-:[KM]:-]

I was told by Ric Wood in Stockport that all you would need to do is bridge the wire that had been cut with a paperclip..

Insulate it though, you don't want it earthing out anywhere....

[simmo490]

yeh u can just bridge it at the plug

[BenF]

I thought there might be.

Could the uni chip be causing my problems.

Intermittently the rev counter dies and the car starts to become unresponsive and cough and splutters?

Could be, if the cut wire has been used to control the timing by altering the time at which the spark fires. If there was a poor connection there somewhere, you may find that the engine cuts out. My Unichip for the Roadster wasn't installed very well initially - it needed securing down to stop it pulling on its wiring loom and but it is now sorted properly.

[Andy K]

Hi,

To remove just a unichip on a rev3 (ie not with boost module) unplug it and bridge pins 7 and 15 on the plug, this should be the white and black wires, this is the PIM line to the ecu, (Map sensor).

then bridge pins 5 and 13, these should be the blue and purple wires, this is the IGT (ignitor) line.

Thats the only 2 lines the unichip 'breaks'

the other wires are supply and VTA, but these 'tap off' and do not intercept.

Normally the base timing is changed when a unichip is fitted and then changed when mapped, you WILL need to reset this to stock timing.

I made up a bypass plug with a cut up PC ATX power connector.

HTH

Andy

[afennell]

I thought there might be.

Could the uni chip be causing my problems.

Intermittently the rev counter dies and the car starts to become unresponsive and cough and splutters?

Could be, if the cut wire has been used to control the timing by altering the time at which the spark fires. If there was a poor connection there somewhere, you may find that the engine cuts out. My Unichip for the Roadster wasn't installed very well initially - it needed securing down to stop it pulling on its wiring loom and but it is now sorted properly.

Thanks, mine was also left rolling around, hanging off its wires. Could not believe it when I saw. I would think that's asking for problems.

[afennell]

Hi,

To remove just a unichip on a rev3 (ie not with boost module) unplug it and bridge pins 7 and 15 on the plug, this should be the white and black wires, this is the PIM line to the ecu, (Map sensor).

then bridge pins 5 and 13, these should be the blue and purple wires, this is the IGT (ignitor) line.

Thats the only 2 lines the unichip 'breaks'

the other wires are supply and VTA, but these 'tap off' and do not intercept.

Normally the base timing is changed when a unichip is fitted and then changed when mapped, you WILL need to reset this to stock timing.

I made up a bypass plug with a cut up PC ATX power connector.

HTH

Andy

Thanks, Cant make my mind up to start there are start replacing the ignitor, coil.
I'm getting upset knowing I can't drive her.

[terribleone]

Hi,

To remove just a unichip on a rev3 (ie not with boost module) unplug it and bridge pins 7 and 15 on the plug, this should be the white and black wires, this is the PIM line to the ecu, (Map sensor).

then bridge pins 5 and 13, these should be the blue and purple wires, this is the IGT (ignitor) line.

Thats the only 2 lines the unichip 'breaks'

the other wires are supply and VTA, but these 'tap off' and do not intercept.

Normally the base timing is changed when a unichip is fitted and then changed when mapped, you WILL need to reset this to stock timing.

I made up a bypass plug with a cut up PC ATX power connector.

HTH

Andy

I'm in a similar situation at the moment, where I want to eliminate my unichip from my fueling/slowness problems. I want to check my timing but have no idea what the base timing was set to when the chip was mapped.

I'd presume on an n/a there'd be the same connections to bridge, then set to stock timing and see if that's sorted the problem?? I can't see that the Unichip would be different itself on a turbo, as it's only connecting to the PIM and IGT line.

[afennell]

The problems is no longer intermittent, I have checked the plugs again and this time they are black and smell of petrol, They were not like this when the problem was intermittent.
I’m assuming as the plugs were fine when the problem was intermittent its most likely to be the coil or amplifier braking down.

[afennell]

Hi,

To remove just a unichip on a rev3 (ie not with boost module) unplug it and bridge pins 7 and 15 on the plug, this should be the white and black wires, this is the PIM line to the ecu, (Map sensor).

then bridge pins 5 and 13, these should be the blue and purple wires, this is the IGT (ignitor) line.

Thats the only 2 lines the unichip 'breaks'

the other wires are supply and VTA, but these 'tap off' and do not intercept.

Normally the base timing is changed when a unichip is fitted and then changed when mapped, you WILL need to reset this to stock timing.

I made up a bypass plug with a cut up PC ATX power connector.

HTH

Andy

Just realised you say your car was setup at engine advantages. Is this the one in Witham/Essex?

Are you on standard internals and what boost are you running.
I ask because they are just down the road from me and I was thiking of booking my car in for a re-map (when, If she runs again!!!!).

[BenF]

FWIW, I'm considering using Engine Advantages as well for the Roadster Remap - they're down the road from me as well (I'm just outside Colchester ..)

It will be either them or Perfect Touch, not sure yet which