I've tried everything.....and now it's dead (CONCLUSION)

[skytek]

Just my luck! I was washing the car last night and saw lots of yellowish oil on the rear alloys. Both shocks have died Now the rear end is knocking and banging along.

[jonb-]

I've been watching this thread as if you recall I almost bought that car, just beat me to it by about a day.

Sorry you're having such trouble with it, talk about poor luck. From the cars history you'd have assumed if anything was going to be a reliable car it was going to be this one.

Anyway, i hope everything clicks into place in the next few weeks and you get many years of trouble free motoring after that.

[skytek]

Thanks Jon, yea I remember our race to grab this one lol. Looks like your bad luck at missing out was a blessing in disguise lol

I've just got back from my mechanic friend and the diagnosis is that I need all 4 shocks replaced. The rears are completely dead and the fronts are pretty close too. The car's been handling like a shopping trolly since I got it and has been getting worse over the last few weeks so the diagnosis comfirms my suspicions.

I'm going to try to go the second hand route to keep costs down. A mate has a car coming in that's he'll be breaking and it has adjustable suspension so I'm hoping it'll be in decent condition and I can grab those.

The boost problem is still bad. I may need to have the turbo unit out to inspect the actuator and other bits if the new ignition components don't do the trick.

The previous owner sold the car at the right time. "Don't worry mate, you definately won't have any mechanical problems for a long time" - That's what I was told. I'm saying nothing . Why do I keep getting stuck with lemons?

Maybe my purpose in life is to buy lemons, spend thousands on them and sell them on so other can enjoy them. Finally found my calling

When I was nipping about on the R6 I never had any bother. Maybe someone's trying to tell me cars aren't for me! lol

Oh well, you pay your money and take your chances, and if you're me you end up broke. That's life .

[PW@Woodsport]

hi mate,ive had one of your buddies at woodsport recently and he asked me to have a look at your thread...ive scanned through from page 1,havent read word for word on the boost prob but have you tried something basic like blocking or clamping the hose that runs from turbo to actuator? If you did that and gently took the car up the road it should boost to whatever level you want,be careful though,we dont want 20psi!

But that would be my starting point to determine if the turbos working and all boost pipes etc are in order.

[skytek]

Thanks Paul, that's a new idea that hasn't yet been suggested. I'll give that a try this evening and report back.

[screech205]

yeah give it a whirl mate, i've been havin boost problems, did this test and turns out my turbo was only putting out 12psi with this hose bunged up so it's goin in for a replacement turbo in a couple of weeks

Sounds suspiciously like whats happening to my car so fingers crossed this test comes out ok!

Steve

[skytek]

yeah give it a whirl mate, i've been havin boost problems, did this test and turns out my turbo was only putting out 12psi with this hose bunged up so it's goin in for a replacement turbo in a couple of weeks

Sounds suspiciously like whats happening to my car so fingers crossed this test comes out ok!

Steve

That's bad news about your turbo mate . I hope mine's not bu88ered. So, did blocking the hose up help you determine the true boost pressure you were getting? How does that work? And, with it blocked, were you still unable to boost as high as you'd have liked? And would that show a turbo problem?

I didn't get a chance to do the test at the weekend but I will this evening all being well.

Cheers Steve,

Reuben.

[PW@Woodsport]

skytek with the turbo to actuator hose blocked you are stopping the wastegate from opening,so if the turbo is working correctly and all IC pipes are sound you should be able to boost until you hit fuel cut.

If you dont boost properly then it could be an IC pipe leak somewhere or a fuelling problem/ignition problem or maybe the wastegate is partially jammed open,thats not uncommon with aftermarket downpipes with machining defects.

Theres 101 things it could be,also the turbo may have an exhaust leak at the flange,does it blow at all? any soot around this area?

Blocking the turbo to actuator pipe is the first step,if it boosts up to fuel cut then that narrows it right down to an actuator problem or boost controller problem....lets see how the test goes,but please accelerate gently with one eye on the boost gauge in case your fuel cut is disabled,we dont want a silly psi!

[skytek]

Paul, that's great! Thanks!

So just to be clear...

At the moment I have a grainger valve fitted instead of my apexi avcr, so do I just pull the tubes off the valve and block the ends up?

[Stefen]

Yes. Block the pipes up with a small bolt. Make sure the one from the turbo is a really tight fit.

[PW@Woodsport]

indeed,take your grainger off and stick a bolt in each pipe.

[skytek]

Ok dudes I tried that and I got 1.2bar before backing off the throttle, BUT it took awfully long to actually reach 1.2 and the power was nothing compared to how that kind of boost should feel.

So what does this mean?

[screech205]

It's sounding like either the turbo's leaking somewhere or you've got a split pipe in the system.

I'd start by having a look at the hoses from the turbo to throttle body (unless you've already done so). If all is well, you'll need to find a way of testing the actuator to find out if it opens at 6psi.

If that checks out then look at leaks on gaskets, etc or if all else fails it'll be a turbo off job. Sounds pretty bad tho if it didn't boost with turbo pipe blocked off

[PW@Woodsport]

skytek next thing to do is remove your intercooler pipes and run a single pipe from your turbo straight to the throttle body....no intercooler,no bov,just a single boost hose going from turbo outlet to the throttle body.

You may be able to do this using your exisiting hoses and clips or you might have to buy or borrow some hose,use anything you can get your hands on that will plumb these two together,an old gt4 chargecooler would be perfect just for testing purposes.

Have you got any pipes you can do this with? if you havent then give me a few days to knock something together on a spare 3s-gte ive got here and i will send you the pipe so you can continue tests.

This test will eliminate a leaking intercooler or boost pipes,it will also rule out a BOV problem,by the way have you got the stock recirc fitted or an aftermarket atmos? If its the stock recirc you can remove the recirc pipe from it,bung it up with something solid so its blocked and try your run again (still with turbo to actuator hose blocked)....see what this does.

Let me know if you want an IC bypass pipe knocking up,oh is it rev1 or 2? thanks.

[skytek]

Thanks Paul!

I think I'll take you up on your offer for the custom pipe for testing. I'll pay for materials and your time mate. Your help is very much appreciated on this, as I was really losing hope. There doesn't seem to be anyone over here who really knows their mr2 turbos

I just have the standard bov, no aftermarket one.

I'll take some snaps of the engine bay tonight and post them up incase that makes things easier for you.

[PW@Woodsport]

no probs,i'll make you an IC bypass pipe...theres a quick bov test you can do in the meantime though...the recirc pipe that comes off it (about 1" diam)...take that off and attach a long pipe of some sort into the cabin onto that,block off the afm side too though! then take it for a quick run and with someone in the passenger seat see if any boost is getting past the bov while accelerating...either that or just replace the bov to see if it cures it.There should be no boost coming from the bov under acceleration,only on lift off.

[Stefen]

Just a note - This is a Rev 2 engine with a Rev 3 conversion, so the AFM has been done away with and replaced by a Rev 3 MAP sensor setup. There may be other changes such a CT20, Skytek can confirm this.

[PW@Woodsport]

thankyou for that stephen,that changes things a little.....carry on with the aforementioned tests though skytek

[skytek]

I took it out for a test run up the motorway last night and found that in 2nd under full throttle the turbo would boost to about 0.6 then I'd get a puff of smoke and a temporary drop in power for a second and then it would boost on up eventually to 1.2 at about 6,500 rpm. I did this with the hose form the turbo to actuator still blocked off. Power is pretty pathetic.

I've had the chance to buy a Turbo Technics CT26 Hybrid with only 3000 miles on it (see for sale section for the discussion). Should I grab it while I have the chance as it's probably a turbo/actuator problem with my ct20b?

Thanks!

[PW@Woodsport]

mate you have got to actually find the fault on yours before going any further,otherwise a new turbo might not make any difference at all.... did you try blocking off the recirc tube on your BOV?