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(another) quick one, the cars in getting a full service (timing belt, fanbelt and clutch main header bottle/tank changed aswell due to a leak) and while it was in ive had tuning thoughts running through my head......$ 720.00 $ 720.00
Tom those cams would tear his head apart if it wasn't modified, they've got a stupid amount of lift IIRC. High duration doesn't need any mods to the head.(at the expense of low rev power). That's what I remember anyhoo.
Sorry Chris and Gordy, I was sort of joking. These cams can't be used for various reasons...£££ The silly little lift ones are just not worth it. The MR2 Mk1 cylinder head flows enough air for around 180-190bhp, then you put the silly intake and silly little camshafts on it and it restricts it down to piffling 125ish. 180bhp on an NA is realistic with throttle bodies, head work, cams, and decent (DECENT!) Exhaust arrangement.'fastroad' cams- no point fitting cams if you're not going to do a proper tune up afterwards. across the board with more power being produced now by 4000rpm (112bhp) than mine ,when standard, at peak power (109@6600rpm) £450 for the cams (quite expensive i know, there are cheaper ones) , £250 for the 'Powerflow' (V.noisy induction noise when accelerating hard..sounds like Darth Vader on steroids), about the same for the Magnex and about £100 work on the head, so £800 without fitting for the gear, but i'm sure you could use other components to get similar results for quite a lot less (anybody tried Raw engineering's Trackpack options)....have a look at their website if you're interested...www.rawengineering.co.uk £540 for the kit to take it to a (claimed) 160Bhp...note that's at the dyno *i presume* Not the wheels as i quoted for mine..if true would be pretty close though... then 256 duration (think they are pretty low lift though) is an option... agree with the others though, when it comes to engine modding you can't really do just one thing in isolation, though in saying that its not a bad place to start.- Circuit Pack 
'decent' one that you speak of? i was considering going to longlife for mine. any suggestions on this?(your going to laugh now), its for general travelling about, going from england - scotland and the occasional trackday! so i cant have a massive petrol guzzling machine, i need a compromise!!! i know, i need another car! gordy.r wrote:cheers guys, i am looking to probably go a lot further with the tuning side of things, was just interested in what was involved, so it looks like i might need to get some head work done if i want a decent cam set up then!
speaking of exhaust set ups, where can i get a
Also they are not stupidly loud but will add 'character' to the sound of your car, so about right IMO.- Circuit Pack .IMHO any cam change will need a change to the fueling and a unichip.RR is a must as well.so unless you have a few pennies to throw at it stick with standard.£300 for just the back box. Pretty pricey, but I've got it fitted to a Mongoose down pipe. Don't know about gains etc but the overall length/pipe diameter is identical to the goose so should be similar.@ Sabre Heads works out the back of Janspeed in Salisbury, he suggested making a stainless exhaust manifold using the ideal lengths etc to match the cam profile. Apparently the cams dictate (majorly) the optimum design of the exhaust, and not doing it "right" on such a highly tuned engine (180bhp from a 1.6!!) is just a waste of bhp and mpg.£600. If many people were interested I could probably get them to bring down the unit cost and we could share the development cost among "x" number of people.(and saving mainly) in my OMEX throttle body/piper cam/sabre head assembly. After a lengthy thread in "modifications" regarding other NA engine options, I have decided to stick with the engine it has and tuning it up stupidly.£500, the cams £400, the throttle bodies including mapping and ECU etc around £1500-2000, then I would need light flywheel and new clutch, the exhaust manifold and connector pipe. Would not expect much change from £4000 once completed, but would be 180bhp at least at the flywheel, probably around 150 at the wheels, maybe more... I agree with the others.juanwond wrote:Power is 142bhp@7000 at the wheels after rolling road tuning
Power is up
(most guys seem to have a stainless and some sort of induction) - I'm impressed. However, as before, with higher lift comes requirement for solid lifters and in some cases head modifications and CERTAINLY fueling alterations.£11+vat each from MrT and I've yet to find another source. Unichip soon, hoping for about 150+ BhpAtw - the timing's just been done at the cams for the moment though no vernier stuff. The engine pulling smoothly from about 2000rpm - before that's it's a little lumpy though still not a problem around town. From 4000rpm on it just pulls harder and faster for the redline, with a quite pronounced vtec like kick in power and noise when Tvis does it's thing. You do have to rev it some to get the performance,yesss indeed - as you'd expect it doesn't have as much torque low down as stock (not untill 5000rpm in fact), but it's very noticeably quicker than standard. It'll happily pull away from say a Golf mk2 16v (a standard one anyway!) from about 60mph onwards and it'll hit over 7000rpm in 5th on a decently long (legal) piece of road. And yes it is low lift (8.1mm i believe) - HKS 272(common exh./intake). Mileage....believe it or not over 30mpg when driven sensibly (below tvis). So, yes 'silly low lift' cams but works for me! 
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