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, for now I'm using the standard seat belt and bring it ( prior to painting ) 
: http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... highlight= Might be worth considering. That's got to be better than the small bolt on the tunnel.Pauln wrote:I'm guessing that because of the awkward profile of the MR2 floor, there's probably a small gap between the bottom of those runners and the actual floor towards the rear of the runners, which if true might allow you to weld on a couple of right angle brackets for the seat belt, dependent on the side mount positioning, etc.
Paul
: http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... highlight= I'm off now to start wiring up my new budget dash cam. It finally got to the point that five days after a full charge, the battery simply didn't have enough power available to start the car. They did offer to fit in for £10, but unsurprisingly I didn't take them up on that particular offer 
Ongoing domestic issues limit the time I can spend working on the car, but I have managed to make some progress. As money was a bit tight at the time, I decided to replace this with a higher spec Kenwood single din unit. So when I fitted a rear view camera the obvious choice seemed to be to go for a wireless camera to work with my Garmin satnav. I have long regretted both decisions. Unfortunately saving money in the short term, doesn't always work out in the long run. I had originally intended to re-use my existing camera via a wireless link, but wasn't happy with the results on the larger screen, so purchased and installed new Auto-vox HD rear view camera. As I had to pull two new power cables through to the boot, I thought I may as well pull a new video cable to improve picture quality. The Auto-vox HD camera is only a budget model, but compared to the Garmin camera via a wireless link the image quality is much better with far less noise. The other advantage of the new camera is that it's designed to fit on the top edge of the number plate, making it less prone to water splash from the road.
The power feed to the camera is controlled by a relay in the boot. In the normal rest position the camera is connected to the reversing lights supply, but when the over ride switch is engaged the relay changes over to the fused ignition power feed from the switch. A further cable runs from the camera power feed, via a fuse, to the head unit. This triggers the head unit to automatically switch to the camera signal when power is fed to the camera. I tried to recharge the Halfords battery, which had been replaced under guarantee less than a month before, but after several attempts to charge the battery the only result was a hot charger and zero volts measured across the battery. However you looked at it the battery appeared to be dead, possibly shorted out internally. I therefore decided to purchase a Yuasa HSB005 battery on-line for next day delivery. I've always fitted Yuasa batteries in my bikes, and they've been pretty reliable, so this seemed like the best option. Especially as the Yuasa battery has greater capacity and carries a five year warranty... After fitting the new battery, I only checked the car started OK and that the voltmeter went up a bit when the engine was running, so I had no way of knowing if this was an existing fault that I hadn't noticed, or one that had just occurred. If it was an existing fault it might explain why the previous battery was flat. Having searched the internet for clues, the following day I checked the brake light switch and found the small plastic pad that the brake light switch plunger rests on had disintegrated and the plunger was now free to pass through the hole that the pad fits into. For now I've reshaped a plastic panel retainer as a replacement. Having re-adjusted the brake light switch I've had no further problems with this. The A119 has a higher spec and incorporates GPS in the mounting bracket, doing away with the additional windscreen mounted gps unit used with the A118. The power feed for the A119 also connects to the bracket rather than the camera, making it much neater and easier to un-clip than the earlier model. The optional polarizing filter also helps to reduce reflections from the windscreen, which could sometimes be an issue with the A118. The A119 is of course only a budget camera, and not in the same league as the likes of GoPro, but front and rear camera image quality is now pretty much the same. As I didn't want to cut into the loom, I purchased a replacement ODB1 unit from IMOC member auzzam. This is the later model which is pre-wired with a suitable plug for the engine bay diagnostics port. Unfortunately when I first fitted this it was tight against the engine bay lid when it was closed, so I had to modify (bend) the port bracket to improve clearance a bit. It now works a treat on my phone, but I haven't as yet mastered the mirror function to bring the display up on my head unit. But I will keep at this, as I'm sure it should be possible. So when IMOC member C35Rob posted a drivers side rail in the for sale forum it seemed like a good opportunity to find out without having to shell out lots of money to import one from Japan. 
It's also possible to tilt the seat a bit further backwards with the Bride frame. 
I may try elongating the bottom hole into more of a slot come the better weather, as it really wasn't too far off. I therefore purchased and replacement s/h panel, and decided to take this as an opportunity to try to improve the output of the stock rev3+ reversing lights. Who ever thought it was a good idea to fit reversing lights side on was obviously more concerned about looks than illuminating the road adequately. I even purchased a couple of led panels, but when I wired these up to test I was horrified at how hot they became. Hot enough in fact to start to melt the adhesive backing. So that idea was rejected. In the end I spotted some 1156 BA15s P21W LED Lamps for sale on eBay which looked as though they were more biased to side illumination than the front, so decided to give them a try. 
I originally tried a white dual pin version of the led lamps I fitted in the reversing lights, but it looked to pink for my liking and I didn't think the difference in illumination between tail and stop function was sufficient. 
Unfortunately the photographs don't really do them justice as to the naked eye they look a solid red all over. The following photo was taken with the inner fogs on to show the difference between tail and brake.
I found with a bit of modification the stock rear number plate lamp holders are a reasonable fit, so I've now fitted led bulbs in these and wired them into the tail light circuit. Well that's the hope at least.Pauln wrote:
Hopefully this year I can also finally find time to fit retractable mirrors and new front door speakers, and repair, paint and fit a genuine Autopista rear spoiler which is currently cluttering up the loft.
Paul
It's just finding the time to do the work on a nice dry day. 2 wheel toy. Well I say new, it's actually 20 years old and a bit rough round the edges, but that's still 5 years younger than my Mr2.
With my MR2 off the road for a few weeks, and not owing another car, it seemed to make sense to buy a bike to get around on in the meantime. Well that's what I told myself, rather than admit I missed having a bike as well.
I forgot to take my camera with me and had to use my phone. I did toy with changing colour, but I really like a well polished black car.....which actually should be quite soon if I remember right? Time flies! 
Whilst its not leaking at the moment, it clearly won't be too long before it is. Um..... Which also might explain why they kept misting up inside. I've just ordered a new clear pair. Whilst I was there, I gave the front bumper bar a quick wire brush and a good coat of Kurust to try to keep the rust at bay. You can clearly see the sorry state of the existing condenser in this shot.
Just a few areas needing a bit more work.
Including a small section on the bottom where they have had to chop it away prior to repairing it.
But other than checking it fits, the front Aerowave lip is still in it's gel coat.
"glue". In the end they had to rub that right back to the plastic before applying a fresh coat of primer.
I do hope so. It seems never ending at the moment. When I get it back I still have to install a new harness in both doors for the upgraded folding mirrors and speakers. Which, as I have no garage, I'd really like to do before the snow arrives 
..
Same with the various bits removed for painting. Fingers crossed.- just 
- sorry wrong recipe 
But the nose cone, front lip, and rear spoiler and various other bits are still in primer. Some of which can be seen in the distance in the last two photos. Then its put it all back together again. 
