Discussion and technical advice the SW20 MR2. 3S-GTE, 3S-GE, 3S-FE etc
Anything and everything to do with maintenance, modifications and electrical is in here for the Mk2.
Hey guys new here just wanted to find out is it possible to run all the turbo components on a rev 3 Na engine? So basically remove the turbo kit from the 3sgte and put it on a 3sge will it work and will I have reliability issues or can I run very less boot and get away with it?
Thanks
pistons are the wrong compression, you could run lower boost, but that's the least of your issues...
manifold ports wouldn't match up
custom turbo oil feed needed
custom coolant feeds to the turbo
clutch to cope with more power
then obviously wiring loom change for ecu, injectors, map sensor etc
Just buy a turbò engine
Yup, you'd basically end up building a 3SGTE the long expensive way around.
It's only worth building a 3SGTE from a 3S block if it's a late block with the strengthened water pump area.
Gazza_DJ wrote:Yup, you'd basically end up building a 3SGTE the long expensive way around.
It's only worth building a 3SGTE from a 3S block if it's a late block with the strengthened water pump area.
thought the rev2's were a decent cast? and it was only early rev 3's which suffered the water pump issue? US guys go on about rev4+ for block though. so ive lost track.
Gazza_DJ wrote:Yup, you'd basically end up building a 3SGTE the long expensive way around.
It's only worth building a 3SGTE from a 3S block if it's a late block with the strengthened water pump area.
thought the rev2's were a decent cast? and it was only early rev 3's which suffered the water pump issue? US guys go on about rev4+ for block though. so ive lost track.
Late 3S blocks have a redesigned corner there, it's squared off instead of round.
Apparently, when you put your ARP head studs into the block and hand tight down, the one in the corner by the water pump should be tightened down till it bottoms out then backed off about 1mm and held in place with some lock tight. This is supposed to stop the block cracking over the water pump problem. I've asked the guy putting my forged engine together to do this.
blogsy wrote:Apparently, when you put your ARP head studs into the block and hand tight down, the one in the corner by the water pump should be tightened down till it bottoms out then backed off about 1mm and held in place with some lock tight. This is supposed to stop the block cracking over the water pump problem. I've asked the guy putting my forged engine together to do this.
explain what?
I cracked a NON turbo block on the water pump area, no modifications at all, stock head bolts. running 158bhp.
The cracking is due to it being a thinner cast and then thermal shock... the thermostat/waterpump is right off that corner
putting arp's in, backing them off/whatever/praying etc will have no effect on whether the block will crack or not in that area
I have heard this and make some sense
That is can be caused by the thermo shock of the cold water hitting it as the thermostat opens causing the area to be brittle and would attribute to the crack. Some people do not run a thermostat for this reason .... how much of this is true I don't know but .....( I think it is just Luck lol)
Dale_V wrote:That will make no difference what so ever
It doesn't actually crack on the bolt hole
Am I right to think that a small percentage of forged engines crack between cylinders 2 and 3, possibly to do with to high a compression piston, knock and a thin cylinder wall. And are there a small percentage that don't get this problem but crack on the block by the water pump, ok. So what if a Messiah told you that since backing off this stud, they've never had a block crack around the water pump area. Next time i'll keep it to myself
blogsy wrote:
Am I right to think that a small percentage of forged engines crack between cylinders 2 and 3, possibly to do with to high a compression piston, knock and a thin cylinder wall.
Nope, it has nothing to do with it being forged or not, 2-3 cylinders can crack on stock pistons. But yes, knock and being thin walled are the culprits
blogsy wrote:So what if a Messiah told you that since backing off this stud, they've never had a block crack around the water pump area.
Then all they've had is good luck."backing off" a head stud will do nothing what so ever to aid a block staying in one piece.