Mate if you can get 350 reliable then no point binning it for another 10/20 or 50 brake..
Enjoy at least whole of next summer
TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
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Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
That's the plan mate, just to have it running, reliable and niggle free for next year, I wrote out a to-do list last night that's got about 20 things on it, but lots of them are just fitting things I've already got or adjusting stuff.
EX MR2 owner, currently on a '00 Honda CBR600 Follow me on Instagram @c35rob
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
Familiar looking comp wheel
Nicely done. Hope it does you well!
Nicely done. Hope it does you well!
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
Any progress Rob? We ready to go back on the road?
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
androo007 wrote:Any progress Rob? We ready to go back on the road?
Haven't touched it for ages mate, haven't really got any interest in it to be honest. I might get a few weeks at home at the start of the summer where things may happen if it's not cold, wet or I've got anything else to do... we'll see
EX MR2 owner, currently on a '00 Honda CBR600 Follow me on Instagram @c35rob
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
awww dont lose the faith Rob, its such a fantastic example! Lets make 2017 a big comeback
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
I agree, don't give up.
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
Cool car this keep the faith. Guess as you are up in the North East you know AK Automotive as I have know the owner quite well. Decent chaps.
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
Keep up the great work Rob. Threads like this are an inspiration to us all. Tis a stunning car you have there
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
Thanks for the positive comments. As the car stands now it's still on space savers in the garage, new damper still not fitted. Car hasn't been started in months
I kind of wish someone would just come and take it away so I never have to see it again to be honest!
I kind of wish someone would just come and take it away so I never have to see it again to be honest!
EX MR2 owner, currently on a '00 Honda CBR600 Follow me on Instagram @c35rob
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
How much is it worth....?
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
I'll take it!
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
C35Rob wrote:
I kind of wish someone would just come and take it away so I never have to see it again to be honest!
I think that about my car most days!
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- Posts: 2589
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:48 pm
- Location: Hertfordshire
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
C35Rob wrote:Thanks for the positive comments. As the car stands now it's still on space savers in the garage, new damper still not fitted. Car hasn't been started in months
I kind of wish someone would just come and take it away so I never have to see it again to be honest!
lol i'll have it if yer giving it away!
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
ashley wrote:How much is it worth....?
As it stands? I don't really know.. low enough for it to make me sad, probably too much for someone to want to come and trailer it away when there's other nice ones out there that are MOT'd and on the road (like Jim's old one, etc)
EX MR2 owner, currently on a '00 Honda CBR600 Follow me on Instagram @c35rob
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
Well if you do want shot let me know, I may know a buyer
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
SUMMER 2017 will be your time buddy, you just need a good bit of time to get a run at it, spare some cash and I'm sure the good weather will convince you
FORGED BUILD (424hp @ hubs): http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=170916
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
SUMMER 2017 will be your time buddy, you just need a good bit of time to get a run at it, spare some cash and I'm sure the good weather will convince you
FORGED BUILD (424hp @ hubs): http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=170916
Re: TOM'S 96 Rev 3 GTS - BREAK ME UP, BEFORE YOU GO GO
well, it's been a while..
since the last update I've mainly been fixing things that were broken and breaking things that didn't need fixing
you may remember back to nov 16 when I discovered after straightening the bent lip on the front N/S wheel (after my accidental verge incident) that the inner barrel was cracked on a previous repair..
well I'd split the wheels down at my friendly powder coaters, left him the barrels and took the lips and centres home, I did tell him I was in no rush, and then never bothered chasing them up, so it was feb 17 by the time I got them back
all four barrels were blasted, the two barrels that had previous weld repairs carried out (to a disgraceful standard) by the previous "refurbisher" were ground out, beveled, and welded properly - you can't even tell they've had a repair now unlike before where they were just blobbed over the top of the crack
they were then powder coated in gloss black
I started to re-polish the lips, but then quickly remembered how much of a hateful job it is, so packed them up and sent them off to 'mike the polisher' , 5 days later they were back in my house looking like this
money well spent, given the time and fingerprints I'd have lost doing it myself
the centres are in 9/10 condition, so to keep costs down I decided not to have them re-coated.
the stock bolts were cleaned and polished and the nuts were replaced with m8 A4 stainless flange nuts.
all 3 pieces were then bolted together, torqued properly, loctite 221 applied to the nuts and the wheels sealed up with Dow Corning 781 acetyl silicone, which is much more flexible than sikaflex or tigerseal.
a mate had made me some replacement stickers for the centre caps (the original gold foil caps had succumbed to old age, sadly) and I managed to get some replacement gel spoke decals too
then I dropped the wheels back off to get the tyres on - 214/40 r17 yokohama AD08R on the front and 255/35 r17 Achilles 123S on the back
the same day (I think) as putting the wheels back on I removed the skateboard wheel bearings and fitted the BRD delrin gear cable bushes I'd had sat in my toolbox for ages,and removed, cleaned, greased and rotated the "gear cube" too
I had decided that as the front end needed to come apart again to change the dead damper, and to replace a wheel bearing I may as well do it all in one hit and replace everything..
Rays Engineering wheel nuts (not aluminium!) from RHDjapan
APP Sfida KG1115 carbon metallic pads (also from RHDJapan) ( http://www.app-top.jp/brake/pad/ ), the APP info on them rates them from 50-800 deg C and with a Mu (coefficient of friction) of .40-.50, compared to Porterfield R4s which have a maximum Mu of 0.41, for example.
and Mtec coated discs... should have clicked black not gold, but it's not the end of the world
some superpro adjustable ARB drop links to replace the rose jointed ones on there now which sadly don't have enough articulation on full lock
and I've just bought a brand new set of Goodridge hoses from Rev2Rich too.. kind of an impulse buy but since the APP hoses on the car now are unknown age it makes sense to replace them while everything is apart.
I bought a spare set of front hubs, complete with calipers, a pair of rear calipers, some new wheel bearings, caliper rebuild kits etc and set about stripping them all down, which took an age using a knot wheel on a grinder and phosphoric acid.
once they were clean they were hung up, acid etch primed and shot with a good thick coat of 2K jet black, all bar the rear calipers which I sent to Bigg red, as I didn't have the special tool for removing the handbrake adjuster and thought I'd end up scratching the new paint putting the return spring back on anyway
I had some custom spacers made too by Superforma, 8mm thick hubcentric slip ons, with a 60.1mm inner centre bore to match the toyota hub, and 73mm outer lip to match the centre bore of the front wheels, so no more spigot rings, and a few mm extra clearance between the tyre and the spring.
however....
that did mean that the tyre would definitely be hitting the arch lip, so I've got some Stage21 +20mm fibreglass front wings, also from Japan.
the actual quality of the fibreglass is pretty good, but they aren't a direct fit.. needing a fair bit of tweaking and heating up to manipulate them into place.. but then they're not £600 a pair like Border racing ones (which are ugly as sin anyway)
just laid on, no fasteners in
after a fair bit of messing it's on and lined up
then removed again for prep and paint some time in the future, once the passenger side has been fitted up.
a bag of bolts, clips and things from toyota, I decided to throw all of the old hardware on the hubs away, and replace it with new (caliper to hub bolts, brake hose clips, banjo bolts, bleed nipples etc etc)
and this last weekend I took the hubs and knuckles to get the new ARP extended wheel studs and wheel bearings pressed in at a mates garage
at some point in the last few months I welded up and painted the exhaust manifold heat shield I made too.. obviously I haven't got around to fitting it yet!
and finally.. I bought a Bride sliding seat rail in an attempt to get an extra inch or so leg room, and to keep the MOT tester happy as he didn't really agree with not having a slider fitted to the seat.
so...
jobs to do:
1)fit everything shown above, plus a new damper (which I already have)
2)paint the fibreglass wings
I've still got other stuff I want to do, remove the turbo and fit the billet wheel, improve the intercooling (still tossing and turning between BMIC and CC, but more leaning towards BMIC), I want to lose weight from the car so would like to go with GRP doors, bonnet and boot lid, replacing the bomex wing with a GT wing. all in good time, maybe.
since the last update I've mainly been fixing things that were broken and breaking things that didn't need fixing
you may remember back to nov 16 when I discovered after straightening the bent lip on the front N/S wheel (after my accidental verge incident) that the inner barrel was cracked on a previous repair..
well I'd split the wheels down at my friendly powder coaters, left him the barrels and took the lips and centres home, I did tell him I was in no rush, and then never bothered chasing them up, so it was feb 17 by the time I got them back
all four barrels were blasted, the two barrels that had previous weld repairs carried out (to a disgraceful standard) by the previous "refurbisher" were ground out, beveled, and welded properly - you can't even tell they've had a repair now unlike before where they were just blobbed over the top of the crack
they were then powder coated in gloss black
I started to re-polish the lips, but then quickly remembered how much of a hateful job it is, so packed them up and sent them off to 'mike the polisher' , 5 days later they were back in my house looking like this
money well spent, given the time and fingerprints I'd have lost doing it myself
the centres are in 9/10 condition, so to keep costs down I decided not to have them re-coated.
the stock bolts were cleaned and polished and the nuts were replaced with m8 A4 stainless flange nuts.
all 3 pieces were then bolted together, torqued properly, loctite 221 applied to the nuts and the wheels sealed up with Dow Corning 781 acetyl silicone, which is much more flexible than sikaflex or tigerseal.
a mate had made me some replacement stickers for the centre caps (the original gold foil caps had succumbed to old age, sadly) and I managed to get some replacement gel spoke decals too
then I dropped the wheels back off to get the tyres on - 214/40 r17 yokohama AD08R on the front and 255/35 r17 Achilles 123S on the back
the same day (I think) as putting the wheels back on I removed the skateboard wheel bearings and fitted the BRD delrin gear cable bushes I'd had sat in my toolbox for ages,and removed, cleaned, greased and rotated the "gear cube" too
I had decided that as the front end needed to come apart again to change the dead damper, and to replace a wheel bearing I may as well do it all in one hit and replace everything..
Rays Engineering wheel nuts (not aluminium!) from RHDjapan
APP Sfida KG1115 carbon metallic pads (also from RHDJapan) ( http://www.app-top.jp/brake/pad/ ), the APP info on them rates them from 50-800 deg C and with a Mu (coefficient of friction) of .40-.50, compared to Porterfield R4s which have a maximum Mu of 0.41, for example.
and Mtec coated discs... should have clicked black not gold, but it's not the end of the world
some superpro adjustable ARB drop links to replace the rose jointed ones on there now which sadly don't have enough articulation on full lock
and I've just bought a brand new set of Goodridge hoses from Rev2Rich too.. kind of an impulse buy but since the APP hoses on the car now are unknown age it makes sense to replace them while everything is apart.
I bought a spare set of front hubs, complete with calipers, a pair of rear calipers, some new wheel bearings, caliper rebuild kits etc and set about stripping them all down, which took an age using a knot wheel on a grinder and phosphoric acid.
once they were clean they were hung up, acid etch primed and shot with a good thick coat of 2K jet black, all bar the rear calipers which I sent to Bigg red, as I didn't have the special tool for removing the handbrake adjuster and thought I'd end up scratching the new paint putting the return spring back on anyway
I had some custom spacers made too by Superforma, 8mm thick hubcentric slip ons, with a 60.1mm inner centre bore to match the toyota hub, and 73mm outer lip to match the centre bore of the front wheels, so no more spigot rings, and a few mm extra clearance between the tyre and the spring.
however....
that did mean that the tyre would definitely be hitting the arch lip, so I've got some Stage21 +20mm fibreglass front wings, also from Japan.
the actual quality of the fibreglass is pretty good, but they aren't a direct fit.. needing a fair bit of tweaking and heating up to manipulate them into place.. but then they're not £600 a pair like Border racing ones (which are ugly as sin anyway)
just laid on, no fasteners in
after a fair bit of messing it's on and lined up
then removed again for prep and paint some time in the future, once the passenger side has been fitted up.
a bag of bolts, clips and things from toyota, I decided to throw all of the old hardware on the hubs away, and replace it with new (caliper to hub bolts, brake hose clips, banjo bolts, bleed nipples etc etc)
and this last weekend I took the hubs and knuckles to get the new ARP extended wheel studs and wheel bearings pressed in at a mates garage
at some point in the last few months I welded up and painted the exhaust manifold heat shield I made too.. obviously I haven't got around to fitting it yet!
and finally.. I bought a Bride sliding seat rail in an attempt to get an extra inch or so leg room, and to keep the MOT tester happy as he didn't really agree with not having a slider fitted to the seat.
so...
jobs to do:
1)fit everything shown above, plus a new damper (which I already have)
2)paint the fibreglass wings
I've still got other stuff I want to do, remove the turbo and fit the billet wheel, improve the intercooling (still tossing and turning between BMIC and CC, but more leaning towards BMIC), I want to lose weight from the car so would like to go with GRP doors, bonnet and boot lid, replacing the bomex wing with a GT wing. all in good time, maybe.
EX MR2 owner, currently on a '00 Honda CBR600 Follow me on Instagram @c35rob