[Mk2] [Turbo] Omoni gauges

[mr2nut123]

could you do another video of the back of your gauges, all of them? it looks like the one in the first video is mechanical which means that the hose (most likely a capillary tube) should be connected to the engine at the other end. Capillary tubes are quite delicate and if it has been mishandled when the engine was removed it a possibility it was broken and this means the gauge would need to be replaced.

I can confirm that two hoses with a bendable braided outer run under the dash and go to the engine bay. I haven't been under the car to check the oil one, but I can certainly see the water one which is plumbed in near the firewall.

[mr2nut123]

you said the side lights lit up the gauges so were the sidelights on? That would explain it.

Even when I had the sidelights on, and both gauges were lit up quite brightly, the wires only had 0.05v showing on them. Perhaps I need to tap the black probe to a known good ground on the car and see if it then shows the full voltage. It's looking like the black wire isn't connected.. Would the gauges be able to light up with just the red wire connected to the sidelights for example?

[bishop]

the gauges would need a ground and a +12v supply so one of those wires is hooked up to the sidelight s supply somewhere, it doesn't have to be the dash though, they could take a sidelight feed from the cig lighter surrounds or the stereo wiring too.
that would also be another place to check for a supply voltage feed.

[mr2nut123]

the gauges would need a ground and a +12v supply so one of those wires is hooked up to the sidelight s supply somewhere, it doesn't have to be the dash though, they could take a sidelight feed from the cig lighter surrounds or the stereo wiring too.
that would also be another place to check for a supply voltage feed.

Could it really be as simple as the black wire not being connected to a good ground? I'm wondering if perhaps it was disturbed when the boost controller was removed from the car. It WAS on the inner edge of the centre console so I suspect that the boost controller had it's feed from inside the dash.

If I find the black wire loose behind the dash, where would the best place be to re-attach it?

[bishop]

anywhere with a good ground, might be a bit of a stretch but if you could get it to the gear shifter the mount for that would have an excellent earth!

[mr2nut123]

anywhere with a good ground, might be a bit of a stretch but if you could get it to the gear shifter the mount for that would have an excellent earth!

Just pop the gear gaiter cover off and stick it in there?

[bishop]

shamelessly plucked from Google, any of the four circled bolts (albeit missing in this photo but that are there) should provide you with a good earth as they are direct to the chassis.

[mr2nut123]

shamelessly plucked from Google, any of the four circled bolts (albeit missing in this photo but that are there) should provide you with a good earth as they are direct to the chassis.

Cheers! Did the test last night. So with the meters black probe on one of those bolts, and the red probe to the positive wire with a gauge connected, I got the following:

https://youtu.be/B-lZ1_i4XY0

Less than 8v showing. Could that explain why the back lighting works (dimly) but the gauges needle doesn't move? I know they have direct oil and water feeds, but I'd imagine there's a little board in there that needs 12v to transfer the reading..?

[mr2nut123]

You see the video ok bishop?

[bishop]

yep saw the video okay. if both the oil and water gauge have that small metal pipe inside the braided hose cover then they will be purely mechanical inner mechanisms.
here is what the inside of the temp gauges will look like:



and this is a rough schematic (bearing in mind the actual temperature probe for vehicle purposes is usually much smaller:



As such there is no electrical components save for the illumination. if you had the gauges wired up so that the light were on as you took the measurements then the voltage you observed in the video is normal (with the lights wired in and on your unlikely to see 12v, the difference is what is dropped over through the light, be it LED or bulb).

if the gauges aren't reading then either the probe isn't inserted into the right place or (more likely) someone has twisted the capillary tube too much thinking it was a normal hose and has damaged the tube. this would stop the gauge from working properly.

the pressure gauge is a different matter, but that's an all electric jobby I thought?

[mr2nut123]

yep saw the video okay. if both the oil and water gauge have that small metal pipe inside the braided hose cover then they will be purely mechanical inner mechanisms.
here is what the inside of the temp gauges will look like:

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://www.triumphexp.com/phile/6/39243/DSC_0919.JPG

and this is a rough schematic (bearing in mind the actual temperature probe for vehicle purposes is usually much smaller:

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://www.instrumentationtoday.com/wp- ... rement.jpg

As such there is no electrical components save for the illumination. if you had the gauges wired up so that the light were on as you took the measurements then the voltage you observed in the video is normal (with the lights wired in and on your unlikely to see 12v, the difference is what is dropped over through the light, be it LED or bulb).

if the gauges aren't reading then either the probe isn't inserted into the right place or (more likely) someone has twisted the capillary tube too much thinking it was a normal hose and has damaged the tube. this would stop the gauge from working properly.

the pressure gauge is a different matter, but that's an all electric jobby I thought?

Cheers for the info! That could make sense actually. The braided hoses going into the gauges have been bent underneath the plastic gauge pod as opposed to drilling holes into the back of them. Is it possible to repair those hoses? I don't think Omori even exist these days

If I can't get them working, anyone got any recommendations for a set of oil temp, water temp and oil pressure gauges that work a treat on the MR2?

[gnzyza]

Stack are regarded to be good. I looked into this recently, and you should go for electric gauge for oil.

Another cheap alternative is the Depo 4 in 1, you can get oil temp,pressure,water in a 60mm gauge. I've researched them on the net and other people seem to like them but not sure if any feedback on here.

I've settled on stack 52mm because they look OEM and will fit in the din slot along with my AFR gauge.

[mr2nut123]

Stack are regarded to be good. I looked into this recently, and you should go for electric gauge for oil.

Another cheap alternative is the Depo 4 in 1, you can get oil temp,pressure,water in a 60mm gauge. I've researched them on the net and other people seem to like them but not sure if any feedback on here.

I've settled on stack 52mm because they look OEM and will fit in the din slot along with my AFR gauge.

They look really nice! Do they light up much being a black backing?

Just found some electrical oil gauges on ebay. They look great!

[gnzyza]

I think they are white led backlite, red needle

[mr2nut123]

I think they are white led backlite, red needle

Yup! They look brilliant actually. I think I'd go for black.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stack-Electri ... SwAL9UfQ6N

What else would you need for them, or would the included adapter be the right size for the MR2? I seem to remember needing a sandwich plate on my previous car, not sure which is the preferred way to take the oil temp and pressure?

[bishop]

oil temp is good to take form about anywhere, sandwich plate usually being easiest. my personally preference (and where I had mine in the past) was to tee the factory oil pressure switch, which is found in the cylinder head.
if you have a rev 1 or 2 engine it can be found here:



and then you could tee it like this to fit the oil pressure gauge:



alternatively if you have a rev3 engine you can fit the Pressure sender through one of the existing spare bosses for convenience.



I personally would fit the pressure gauge to the same location as the factory oil switch as its usually (not always) quite far from the oil pump so can give you a better idea of how much pressure is in the whole engineer rather than in the area near the oil pump or filter

[mr2nut123]

oil temp is good to take form about anywhere, sandwich plate usually being easiest. my personally preference (and where I had mine in the past) was to tee the factory oil pressure switch, which is found in the cylinder head.
if you have a rev 1 or 2 engine it can be found here:

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://url.photobucket.com/albums/v139/defgeph/jp.jpg

and then you could tee it like this to fit the oil pressure gauge:

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://www.mr2australia.com/uploaded/Re ... enders.jpg

alternatively if you have a rev3 engine you can fit the Pressure sender through one of the existing spare bosses for convenience.

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://www.shinny.co.uk/mr2rev3turbooil ... ations.png

I personally would fit the pressure gauge to the same location as the factory oil switch as its usually (not always) quite far from the oil pump so can give you a better idea of how much pressure is in the whole engineer rather than in the area near the oil pump or filter

Thanks for the very useful diagrams and heads up there! An update on the gauges!

So I found the earth to the gearbox mount and the copper was very oxidised and fragile. I chopped the cable and re-crimped and I then saw the full 12v even WITH the gauges running/lit up.

The bad news.. They still didn't read The hoses that run to the back of the car weren't bent at all, and if they were leaking I'd have seen. I can only assume that the sensors either in the gauges or in the engine side have failed.

I'll just get some new gauges when I can afford it.

[shinny]

and then you could tee it like this to fit the oil pressure gauge:

Please don't fit a pressure sensor like that. The extra weight on a vibrating engine has been known to cause failures, meaning loss of oil (which is never a good thing). I'm sure there are people who haven't seen this failure, but it's just not worth the risk where oil systems are concerned.

If you're going to attach the sensor here, please use a braided line and mount the T-piece elsewhere. Kits for this exist.

I use the highlighted ports on the oil pan (in fact, I made that highlighted diagram) and highly recommend using them if you can. Sensors may clash with the aircon belt though, if you have one.

[mr2nut123]

and then you could tee it like this to fit the oil pressure gauge:

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://www.mr2australia.com/uploaded/Re ... enders.jpg

Please don't fit a pressure sensor like that. The extra weight on a vibrating engine has been known to cause failures, meaning loss of oil (which is never a good thing). I'm sure there are people who haven't seen this failure, but it's just not worth the risk where oil systems are concerned.

If you're going to attach the sensor here, please use a braided line and mount the T-piece elsewhere. Kits for this exist.

I use the highlighted ports on the oil pan (in fact, I made that highlighted diagram) and highly recommend using them if you can. Sensors may clash with the aircon belt though, if you have one.

I wouldn't actually. Had that previously when someone fit me a gauge and luckily I saw the oil spray onto my rear window! The things you learn in your teens. Don't overtighten brass, and don't do the above and run a braided hose

[shinny]

I wouldn't actually. Had that previously when someone fit me a gauge and luckily I saw the oil spray onto my rear window! The things you learn in your teens. Don't overtighten brass, and don't do the above and run a braided hose

Good man