[Mk2] [Turbo] New mods - A work in progress (Picture Heavy!)

[HighwayStar]

Yeah c'mon Moo.... what does it need and what can we other happy campers do to help?

R

[Moo]

It's all relatively minor in the scheme of things and no doubt can be sorted if I chuck yet more money at it but therein lies the problem. I sucked up a huge amount in labour costs to get the car back on the road and it's still not quite where I want it to be. Not hugely wrong but wrong enough to stop me from enjoying it. There are things that are just downright annoying about it and totally detract from the driving experience to the point where it p1$$es me off every time I do drive it. And that's pretty much why it's sits in the garage unloved.

I'm not saying a bad job was done, nothing could be further from the truth in fact. Rogue did an amazing job in putting the car back together and getting it back to a road worthy state. There were always going to be niggles and we had a good bash at trying to sort them but it still needs further work and I reached the point where I just had enough of it and the bills.

Will list out the stuff that needs addressing later but it doesn't really change much. Until it gets sorted I won't be able to enjoy the car but I don't want to pay anymore to get it sorted. Bit of a catch 22 really.

[ashley]

Give us the list- you never know, we might be able to get some of it sorted without throwing any cash at it

[Moo]

Things that need addressing:

Cutting out at just over 6k, feels like it's hitting the rev limiter. Been like that since day 1, does it all the time.

Stuttering between 2.2 and 2.5k under light throttle and constant speed. Can feel the car starting to judder and kangaroo underneath you. Blip the throttle to those revs while on cold start and the car nearly stalls. Not sure if the 2 are connected.

Takes a lot more cranks to get the car started when both warm and cold than it did on stock ECU. Cold start and running tweaked the second time on the dyno but still doesn't run particularly well when cold.

Rev counter in the Race2 Dash keeps cutting out. It died completely the first time on the way home and got looked at during one of the niggle visits. It now works for the most part but every so often will cut out for a few seconds and come back to life. Particularly annoying as when it does this it lights up all the shift lights like a Christmas tree for a few seconds until it settles down.

Speed reading on the dash is all over the place, constantly flickering either side of the speed you're actually doing. Sample rate on the dash is as low as it will go. Don't think it's fixable as is, it's just the way it is. As far as I know my options are to go back to my standard clocks or buy the data logger so I can use GPS for the speed reading. Not really the end of the world to leave it as is but really annoying as you can always see it flickering madly just at the bottom of your vision.

Still getting fumes in the cabin when the windows are open. Nowhere near as bad as before after running a tube from the catch can breather down to the bottom of the engine bay but still bad enough. Not sure if it's still the catch can vapours or maybe the screamer pipe but not pleasant driving with the window open, even a little.

Wheel wobble. In no way related to any of the work done by either garage as had this issue before the car went off the road but still needs addressing and isn't really helping with my general dislike of the car. Had wheels refurbed and checked while car off the road, wheels and tyres all true. It's one of those annoying wobbles that's there one minute and gone the next at the same speed.

Really annoying rattles behind the dashboard and squeaks, buzzes and vibrations from the engine bay. Hardly surprising considering what's changed in there and was able to cure a bit of it during one of the niggle visits but still plenty to sort. Not talking about the odd noise here and there you expect with an old car. Talking constant in your face noises and resonant vibrations. The stuff you can't tune out. Makes for a pretty agricultural driving experience.

Bodywork and trim damage to be repaired and replaced.


So there you have it. None of it is major but most of it will take more money spending to fix and that's not something I'm willing to entertain right now.

On a positive note the car does go like a bat out of hell when you boot it and for those few seconds between flooring it and it cutting out I can forget about all the bad stuff and it does actually put a smile on my face but since you can't go every where flat out it's short lived and not really enough to outweigh the other stuff that is letting it down and responsible for its banishment to the garage.

[dazzz]

There's nothing wrong with taking a little break while you regain the motivation.

Would be interested to know what the little bugs are though?

[ashley]

Cutting out at just over 6k, feels like it's hitting the rev limiter. Been like that since day 1, does it all the time.

Stuttering between 2.2 and 2.5k under light throttle and constant speed. Can feel the car starting to judder and kangaroo underneath you. Blip the throttle to those revs while on cold start and the car nearly stalls. Not sure if the 2 are connected.

Sounds like you need to look over your ignition system, you're on COPS aren't you? Some simple tests you can do there with an multimeter when you are ready, we can talk you through it on here...

Takes a lot more cranks to get the car started when both warm and cold than it did on stock ECU. Cold start and running tweaked the second time on the dyno but still doesn't run particularly well when cold.

Sounds like the cold start may have been done with a warm engine, then fiddled on the second session...that probably needs looking at on a cold morning, I know someone who might be able to look at it for you for a beer, but you'd need to bring it over for a few days

Rev counter in the Race2 Dash keeps cutting out. It died completely the first time on the way home and got looked at during one of the niggle visits. It now works for the most part but every so often will cut out for a few seconds and come back to life. Particularly annoying as when it does this it lights up all the shift lights like a Christmas tree for a few seconds until it settles down.

Install problem? You need to see where the Dash has been wired into and where it's pulling it's +12v switched from- might need some professional help on that one, we need someone who is hot on the Dash 2 install and willing to help.....I wonder if we can find a volunteer...

Speed reading on the dash is all over the place, constantly flickering either side of the speed you're actually doing. Sample rate on the dash is as low as it will go. Don't think it's fixable as is, it's just the way it is. As far as I know my options are to go back to my standard clocks or buy the data logger so I can use GPS for the speed reading. Not really the end of the world to leave it as is but really annoying as you can always see it flickering madly just at the bottom of your vision.

Just talked this through with Peter Gidden and he may well have a solution for you, he's just gonna go do some research on the speed signal frequency range on the MR2 gearbox speed sender to confirm...if this is the problem then you're probably looking at a £50 fix.

The dash isn't level, it's been mounted lopsided. Really minor I know but I must have chronic OCD as it totally bugs the crap out of me every time I see it and has almost become the epitome of everything I don't like about this car.

I had the same mounting set up as you and mine was level, you can have my old dash insert- should sort that for you straight away: I'm picking it up from Peter a week on friday for you.

Still getting fumes in the cabin when the windows are open. Nowhere near as bad as before after running a tube from the catch can breather down to the bottom of the engine bay but still bad enough. Not sure if it's still the catch can vapours or maybe the screamer pipe but not pleasant driving with the window open, even a little.

Sounds like an exhaust/ turbo/ manifold leak. From memory your screamer pipe vents under the sump, and I never had that problem with the set up. Suggest pulling the whole lot out, inspect for cracks, reface all mating surfaces, renew gaskets, then seal it all up again...happy to help.

Wheel wobble. In no way related to any of the work done by either garage as had this issue before the car went off the road but still needs addressing and isn't really helping with my general dislike of the car. Had wheels refurbed and checked while car off the road, wheels and tyres all true. It's one of those annoying wobbles that's there one minute and gone the next at the same speed.

I've got spare set of wheels, lets bolt them on and see if it solves the problem and take it from there...

Really annoying rattles behind the dashboard and squeaks, buzzes and vibrations from the engine bay. Hardly surprising considering what's changed in there and was able to cure a bit of it during one of the niggle visits but still plenty to sort. Not talking about the odd noise here and there you expect with an old car. Talking constant in your face noises and resonant vibrations. The stuff you can't tune out. Makes for a pretty agricultural driving experience.

Only one way to deal with that....one noise at a time, but definitely do'able with patience, and shouldn't cost anything!

Bodywork and trim damage to be repaired and replaced.

Sorry- can't help with that one, but if you get the rest sorted you may feel happier about getting it sorted?


Like I said- more than happy to help if I can, I totally get you being fed up with it, but the best way to resolve it now you've had a break, is to face the issues down one at a time, do as much yourself, and we'll get you as much help as we can...you just need to ask

[Toyspeed]

Have you logged for trigger errors?
Sounds like your cranktrigger could be missing teeth?

Mine did almost the same when it lost trigger

[jimGTS]

this is certainly a good time to get stuck in yourself dude.

way more satisfaction knowing youve done the work over paying someone else!
granted not everything diy, but majority is.


is it worth going back to stock ecu/injectors/leads just to see where you are at?
(obviously put boost down).

doing this alone may bring back some love for it.
(and will very most likely cure your cold and warm start ups, misfiring, rev limit etc).

and tackle the other things while its in a "simpler" state of tune.
??

[Moo]

Thanks for the suggestions and offers of help, they really are appreciated!

Yes, running COPS. You think that might be the cause of the first 2 issues? How about the map or some settings in the ECU? I did speak to Patrick briefly about this last year and he suggested it might be the ECU pulling things back on safety grounds. High coolant temps or boost creep were a couple of suggestions. The coolant temps are fine but might be getting boost creep? I did think at the time I might get the map checked out, might still be worth doing? Happy to check out the COPS first before looking at a remap but would have to buy a multi meter!

I don't have the dizzy, leads or stock injectors anymore and even if I did it would be a bit of a mission for me to put those things back on the car. I'm not running an EBC anymore so wouldn't have a clue as to how to put the boost down. That might be an afternoons work for you Jim but this is me we're talking about here lol. Put me in front of a keyboard and I'm your man, show me a spanner and an engine and I'll break out in a cold sweat every time!

Don't really know what to do about the rev counter in the Dash. Might not have many options other than to pay the professionals or live with it. Would be great if Peter had a fix for the speed reading, that's one thing I wouldn't mind paying for!

Thanks for the offer of your old dash insert. I will accept that gladly!

With the fumes issue, now you mention it, I do remember there was a crack in that manifold when I bought it from you. Luke did say he'd welded it up and he also welded a brace on the back but maybe it's gone again and that's the cause? Not easy to check visually as the manifold is heat wrapped but it's a good place to start. There was also a leak between the downpipe and back box that was sorted by a garage local to me so that's something else to check.

Testing with a spare set of wheels is a good place to start and again, thanks for the offer.

The rattles I can and will have a bash at myself. I've got an idea of what is causing the worst of them, it's just a case of working up enough enthusiasm and finding the time to start ripping things out and trying to fix them.

Would you be up for me driving over to you one weekend and trying out your spare set of wheels?

[ashley]

Sounds like you need to do some data logging to see what's happening, and we need to understand what the ecu has been set up to do...it's a link isn't it? Who mapped it? They should be able to tell you exactly what they've got it doing in relation to charge temps, or knock, or whatever...that would be a good starting point.

The ignition issues could be a number of things, best bet is to start testing and start crossing things off the list. testing the COPs is a 10 minute job, testing the crank trigger signal needs to be done, and it'll be worth checking if the wiring for both the crank trigger and cam ref has be adequately shielded- a noisy signal at higher rev's could be an issue...it's all guess work at this stage though.

Pull the details on how your ecu was set up from whoever mapped it, get a copy of the map as well if you can. Once you've done some testing it would be worth borrowing a data logger and seeing what's happening when it starts p1$$ing around.

Rev counter is an interesting one, but I'm positive it can be sorted- we might need beg some help from someone friendly though...it may be as simple as noise on the input to the Dash, where is it taking it's signal from- ECU I'm guessing? Is it using the serial interface, or CAN input? Is the wiring shielded?

Not talked to Peter again yet, but from the discussion we had last night it sounds like the Dash2 can't take too high frequency signals for wheel speed, so he's checking the frequency range you get from the stock gearbox speed sender. If it's too high then he knows a company that can build you a simply frequency converter that can half, or factor of 10, or whatever to the signal so the Dash can use it.

Cracks in mani, not properly sealed joint between mani and turbine housing, and a leaking downpipe would all explain the fumes...like I say- rip it all out, clean it up and inspect for cracks, then reface the joints, make a gasket for the ex mani to the turbine housing, and then torque it all back together again with a smearing of decent exhaust jointing compound...my money says that'll solve the problem.

And yes- of course you can try my wheels!

Given how far away you are, it might make more sense to meet somewhere else, let me come back to you at the end of next week once I've picked up the dash mount

[jimGTS]

Electrical side there are better people given what your running, but am happy to be a spanner monkey to pull things out. (Turbo/injectors etc).

Guess plan of action is needed. What's best to sort first before making the car undrivable by removing bits etc?

Makes no sense to pull the turbo if someone can check your electrical system etc.

Sure between a few members you'll be back in shape.