Right then, update time
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As the good lady has been away quite a lot I've had plenty of time to squirrel around in the garage and tinker with the Westy.
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That and getting fed and watered at other people's houses, like a human Littlest Hobo
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![Image](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/26/The_Littlest_Hobo_The_Complete_First_Season_DVD_cover.jpg)
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Amongst tackling a sea of little jobs I've been spending some time making observations of many of the little anomalies I've found.
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Some straight forward others more bizarre.
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So, in no particular, here's a list of what's done, what's found and what needs doing:
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There's something really weird going on with the LTE Digi Dash as readings from the various sensors don't make any sense.
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Oil pressures are out massively, however it's the wrong sensor fitted so that's easily rectified.
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The dash reads as being 12.3v when fired up and idling, a voltmeter on the battery reads 14v
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Coolant temps with the engine fired up and idling could be say 90 degrees, however if you turn the lights on they go up to 105 or so.
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The same happens if up turns the rad fan on
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My first thoughts were it could be dodgy grounding, so I pulled them, created a nice clean grounding point and reattached, with the same results?! I'm not exactly sure what's causing it, it's likely something simple but I need to work out what and where.
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Speaking of the dash, I spent a little time adjusting the various parameters on it to alter the alarm thresholds and other bits.
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When I have all the sensors I need I'll do a full sweep on it but these will do for now as when it alarms you can't see any other readings from the dash
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Water temp alarm was set to 95 before
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Oil temp was the same?!
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![Image](http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y504/MuleDesigns/IMG_0846_zpscb42b9f8.jpg)
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Oil pressure was also miles off what the factory default was so I've changed it back.
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Doesn't make any difference now as the sensor reads incorrectly anyway due to being a non-LTE part.
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It's done for when it's swapped though
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![Image](http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y504/MuleDesigns/IMG_0847_zpse60ec5ca.jpg)
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I'll do all the sensors etc when I swap the oil, to save draining it twice and wasting oil.
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The fuel pump really doesn't like it when the fuel level gets low, so I'm going to replace the tank with something sumped and/or baffled.
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The tank that's in there is pretty crap to be honest and doesn't have
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(or have provision to have) a fuel sensor installed.
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If this things going to be tracked I really don't want to be worrying about fuel starvation because of a cheap old tank!
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The pump noise was bothering me, which as of tonight has been diagnosed as being down to having very little fuel left.
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Hard to tell when you have no fuel gauge, as rocking the car backwards and forwards isn't exactly scientific
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I popped off the rear covers to see what's what and found the pump to be a Facet, which I'm told are fairly good.
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*Excuse the photo quality from here on, I'm using the camera on the new phone.
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Not quite up to the standards of my Canon 6D!
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![Image](http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y504/MuleDesigns/IMAG0010_zpspahvaiwi.jpg)
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Nick suggested that some of the noise could be because it's mounted in the way it is, so I thought it made sense to add a little something to absorb vibration.
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Enter feet from a network switch
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![Image](http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y504/MuleDesigns/IMAG0017_zpslycyrmlx.jpg)
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Tidied up.
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Yes I know you won't see it and it won't make any difference if the extra lobes aren't cut off, I can't help it.
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![Image](http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y504/MuleDesigns/IMAG0019_zpseccrntlx.jpg)
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Makes a little bit of a difference, it's a job done nonetheless.
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The pump it's might need servicing, so I'll do that at the time the tank's swapped.
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I'll do the fuel filter too as it's a bit dirty.
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Another fuel/dash related observation is that if you want to power up the dash you have to insert and turn the kill switch
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(obviously) as well as flicking the pump switch.
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This powers up the fuel pump, which can't be good for it to be sat rattling away without the engine fired up.
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To remedy this I'm going to wire the dash into the kill switch, so as long as the kill switch is in and on the dash will be too.
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It suits the way I work far far more and isn't going to put a strain on the fuel pump.
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Not sure why it would have been wired that way in the first place?!
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I'm ordering a proper speed sensor to match the dash as at the moment it's got a bike sensor fitted.
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Amazingly it's actually bang on accurate, which is incredible considering you could have the same thing fitted to your Halfords MTB
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It will help calibrate the proper sensor/dash setup when I fit the new bits, so it's staying for now.
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The valve clearances need checking again
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(thanks for the heads-up Nick
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), which I'll be doing over the next coupe of weeks.
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I'm going to spray the cam covers whilst they're off, as they look pretty tatty at the moment.
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Not sure what colour yet, likely black gloss to match the other bits.
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Whilst buying the air filter bits I got talking to a someone who works for these guys
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http://www.michaelcomberracing.com/ and to cut a VERY long story short I'm off down there to see them and get the alignment, ride height and corner weighting sorted.
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They used to race Westfields so should be able to get the old dog dialled in nicely
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I think that's the main part of it at the moment.
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No doubt more will be discovered as I delve deeper into other areas of what has become another true Mule
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