st205 charge cooler operating questions

[jasongtr]

a mate took my new mr2 turbo out for a spirited drive today, when he came back the top of the charge cooler was hot -too hot to touch really - so

Is that normal? I ask as I have my doubts that with the car running 400hp at 1.5bar and mapped by 2 bar tuning to run 450hp at 1.8bar, its not up to the job.

Also once it cooled down I opened up the coolant cap and it wasn't brimmed, should it be brimmed to the top like the engine coolant is under the cap, I understand they are a pita to bleed properly.

cheers

[shinny]

The charge cooler should only be warm to the touch if it's been sat for a while after turning off a hot engine. If I've just been driving I expect the charge cooler to be cold to the touch. If it isn't, something isn't working right.

The coolant should be pretty much brimmed to the filler cap, and should ideallly be filled with the pump on. Is sure the pump is even working?

This is why my charge cooler system is controlled by the ST205 ECU (which turns on the CEL if the level drops too low or the pump fails) and has temperature sensors (to prove coolant is actually circulating)

[jasongtr]

ill check the pump is working and fill it up to see how much I can get in, can I ask what power you run or what you think the capabilities of the st205 cc is

my car has a link g3 ecu - no idea if it controls the cc

[shinny]

I can't tell you if the Link G3 controls the pump or not... I'd guess not.

I'm running standard internals and thus up to 300bhp. The GT4 boys say the coolers are good for about 400bhp.

[jasongtr]

ok, mine is just within, ill check the pump/levels, ill be turning the boost back up to 1.8 bar so would need a better charge cooler at some point I guess

[bolton]

When the pump is running the water/coolant should be at the top of the charge cooler core, when you undo the pressure cap! If the pump is not running and you undo the pressure cap water/coolant should come p*ssing out! Its a pressurised system!

[jasongtr]

that's fine but should you be able to see the coolant level when cold and the pump off - it gonna be difficultto see the level when hot and the pump is running when it spraying all over the workshop roof

[Driftlimits Performance]

It's only under pressure if it's hot. Which it shouldn't be. You should be able to remove the cap without it spraying everywhere. Unless of course your pump is pumping the wrong way.

[jasongtr]

I cannot imagine the thing has been installed incorrectly, the engine was built by century motorsport (of course that does not mean they installed the charge cooler)

but when it cooled down I could not see coolant at the top when removing the cap - so going by the thoughts in the tread its either down on coolant making it run hotter than normal or the pump is fecked

[bobhatton]

a mate took my new mr2 turbo out for a spirited drive today, when he came back the top of the charge cooler was hot -too hot to touch really - so

Is that normal? I ask as I have my doubts that with the car running 400hp at 1.5bar and mapped by 2 bar tuning to run 450hp at 1.8bar, its not up to the job.

Also once it cooled down I opened up the coolant cap and it wasn't brimmed, should it be brimmed to the top like the engine coolant is under the cap, I understand they are a pita to bleed properly.

cheers

There is a lot more to the system than just the charge cooler. What pump are you using, what size pipe work and what cooling rad?

[jasongtr]

ah ha ill pass on most of that.

its def got a chinkychento (haha) rad as ive got a receipt for that, I assume the rest is st205 standard as per my other rev3 turbo that had this setup, I can certainly take a look later

[shinny]

It's only under pressure if it's hot. Which it shouldn't be. You should be able to remove the cap without it spraying everywhere. Unless of course your pump is pumping the wrong way.

This depends what you describe as the "right" way. IIRC, Toyota fitted the system as a concurrent flow, where-as most people plumb it is as the more efficient counter-current system, meaning the water goes the other way around the core and the pressure from the pump is at the filler cap.

[jasongtr]

Pass

[jasongtr]

ok the pump feels like its working (its vibrating/buzzing when the car is running)

its located under the ns headlight (my last on as bolted to the gearbox) either way its on

the coolant level was a fair bit below brimmed, so its currently sitting there with the cap off - engine idling (too high but that's another story) and seems to be bleeding itself as every now and then a few bubbles appear and I top it up a bit, how long does it take to bleed - assuming its being done the right way of course

[Moo]

Try and determine what make and model pump it is. It might be working but still not be man enough for the task.

[jasongtr]

not sure if this is a potential cause of the low coolant but could it be the fact the water is boiling/evaporating and im losing it that way?

[Peter Gidden]

could it be the fact the water is boiling/evaporating and im losing it that way?

In a sealed system?

[Peter Gidden]

how long does it take to bleed - assuming its being done the right way of course

The smallest of air locks will prevent flow. Can take 30 mins to bleed.

[jasongtr]

could it be the fact the water is boiling/evaporating and im losing it that way?

In a sealed system?

theres an over flow bottle on mine

[shinny]

could it be the fact the water is boiling/evaporating and im losing it that way?

In a sealed system?

theres an over flow bottle on mine

There is also a pressure cap.. from my experience that keeps most of the pressure in the system.

You shouldn't be getting near boiling the water in the system if the pump is actually flowing coolant around the system. I have a temperature gauge on the coolant outlet of the charge cooler and the worst I see on a functioning system is around 20°C over ambient immediately after boosting.