front end lift....?

[toxo]

If your speedo doesn't work it's likely your power steering is just at full pelt all the time!

[Shmed]

If your speedo doesn't work it's likely your power steering is just at full pelt all the time!

Looks like fixing the speedo has just gone up on my list of priorities Cheers

[Shmed]

Dan, I agree with the top vent. I was suggesting snorkels for ease, but what I really would like to do would be create the GT style engine cover to do the following:

1. Replace the original cover and be watertight - so no probs with water ingress
2. Have a perspex 'window' so you can still see out the back
3. Have an integrated central 'intake' that sits along the roof and channel the air to the exhaust side of the engine and the air intake (which would also be elevated from the stock position to grab the air before it got hot)

I don't use the boot, so relocate the ECU and stuff and make a tunnel from above the rear subframe straight out the rear bumper?! for the hot air to escape (maybe relocate the Spal fans in here to pull air through when stationary.

I'd consider leaving the side vents open, but would that cause some sort of vortex inside the engine bay with air colliding from the top intake?

Would be interested to see how you channel the air through the frunk, in my mind it would be like a big square tunnel that keeps the air going through onto the bonnet rather than swirling around inside the frunk.

[Shmed]

I would probably use an old engline lid for the shape and the catch mechanism, but would cut the centre out of it....

Again, a lot of this could be my pipe dream as I sit behind a desk pretty much all day every day and have a second baby due in 3 weeks.....

[nickg07]

thought id add my 2 pence here. i know nothing about aerodynamics however

the other day it was dry and some small very light things had fallen onto my car rear on the engine cover.

I set off to work and on the motorway i noticed them in my rear window, you could see them jumping up into the air like a tumble effect.

The faster i went - the higher they would rise, when i backed off they'd drop lower in the air. Obviously in the low air pressure area of the car.

Was really cool to see this first hand - and is an obvious demonstration of air being sucked up through the rear and passed out through the suction provided by that low pressure area.

Now my car has rev3 spoiler. If i had a larger rev5 spoiler, does this increase the effect?

[dantheman]

Dan, I agree with the top vent. I was suggesting snorkels for ease, but what I really would like to do would be create the GT style engine cover to do the following:

1. Replace the original cover and be watertight - so no probs with water ingress
2. Have a perspex 'window' so you can still see out the back
3. Have an integrated central 'intake' that sits along the roof and channel the air to the exhaust side of the engine and the air intake (which would also be elevated from the stock position to grab the air before it got hot)

I don't use the boot, so relocate the ECU and stuff and make a tunnel from above the rear subframe straight out the rear bumper?! for the hot air to escape (maybe relocate the Spal fans in here to pull air through when stationary.

I'd consider leaving the side vents open, but would that cause some sort of vortex inside the engine bay with air colliding from the top intake?

Would be interested to see how you channel the air through the frunk, in my mind it would be like a big square tunnel that keeps the air going through onto the bonnet rather than swirling around inside the frunk.

I would probably use an old engline lid for the shape and the catch mechanism, but would cut the centre out of it....

haha Shmed the success of it is all in the details. That GT style engine lid sounds very sensible. Better than mine, which like the one pictured would still let water in. A standard engine lid is not shaped like the whole region at all. Remember you have the inspection panels as well. thats slightly more like the shape, but then you have the whole hypotenuse vs straight edge thing which makes the sizing all wrong. It wont work like that.

Ye you could make a tunnel like, perhaps with the exit point coming out the centre grill between the lights.

You shouldnt have a problem with the side vents. Imagine the top vent is the upper stream lines, the side intake is the lower streamlines, the engine is the ball and the exit vent occurs at the right edge of the picture

However this picture would also represent the flow under the stock concept so i wouldnt worry about it. There will be much more negative pressure behind the bumper than in front of the exit vent. Any vortices will get sucked through the vent.

Was really cool to see this first hand - and is an obvious demonstration of air being sucked up through the rear and passed out through the suction provided by that low pressure area.

Now my car has rev3 spoiler. If i had a larger rev5 spoiler, does this increase the effect?

What you were seeing there was 90% the recirculating airflow over the car and 10% the air coming from the engine bay. I have hypothesised and it has partially been proven with CFD that the airflow through the engine bay is pathetically slow compared to the freestream air (road) speed. It would have looked the same had you got an unvented engine lid.

And in short, no, the spoiler makes no difference to the recirculation zone.

[James-UK]

Took mine on a long motorway journey for the first time since I bought it yesterday. Up to 60mph it feels really planted on the road, then anything over 70 the front feels extremely light / floaty and almost wobbly. I'm not sure it's just me that needs to get used to this car at motorway speeds, but I'm sure it shouldn't be that scary at 75.

The cars got those Rev 5 flaps in the wheel wells, not sure about the undertray though as I haven't looked.

What kind of things would I be looking at to correct this? I'm thinking:

- Springs / shocks / suspension - Think it's still on it's original bits so that may have an effect at higher speeds?

- Alignment?

- Powersteering? Not even sure how to tell if it's staying on at motorway speeds?

Also looking at completely refreshing the suspension soon, so I'm assuming if I lowered it slightly that would reduce lift.

[toxo]

You won't have a power steering issue unless it's an import, the problem arises from KPH to MPH conversion.

My money would be on alignment.

[James-UK]

You won't have a power steering issue unless it's an import, the problem arises from KPH to MPH conversion.

My money would be on alignment.

And you think it would be better to do that before I get the bushes, balljoints and the rest sorted?

[alanmr2turbo]

You won't have a power steering issue unless it's an import, the problem arises from KPH to MPH conversion.

My money would be on alignment.

And you think it would be better to do that before I get the bushes, balljoints and the rest sorted?

no as you would have to get it aligned again afterwards

[Shmed]

^^ what he said ^^

[James-UK]

You won't have a power steering issue unless it's an import, the problem arises from KPH to MPH conversion.

My money would be on alignment.

And you think it would be better to do that before I get the bushes, balljoints and the rest sorted?

no as you would have to get it aligned again afterwards

Yeah, problem is I wasn't looking to do it until October ish. So it's whether I go for the alignment and hope it's sorted. Or get it all done at once and leave it at that.

Just spoke to NationalTyres and the guy said they've only got one set of settings for a MK2 MR2. So I'm assuming that's for a Rev 1. Anyone got a link for Rev 3-5 settings?

[Shmed]

I used these settings:



From this thread:

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... light=dino

You won't be able to change your front castor or the camber front or rear I don't think. Just the front and rear toe and rear castor which isn't shown on there, so don't know if that is even relevent?!

[James-UK]

It's all greek to me. My knowledge of all this consists of messing around with camber settings on Forza.

Just need a page I can print off, hand to the man and let them sort it.

[Shmed]

Print the picture above and leave them to it

[Shmed]

Or just let them set the rev 1 settings.....

[James-UK]

Print the picture above and leave them to it

Will probably do this and see if it sorts the problem. Are the Rev 1 settings even that different?

[Shmed]

From re-reading the thread I posted above, it looks like the rev 1 settings are possibly better than the rev 3 one's anyway.

[James-UK]

From re-reading the thread I posted above, it looks like the rev 1 settings are possibly better than the rev 3 one's anyway.

Thanks for your help anyway. Think I'll just take it to National, get them to do the free check and if there's stuff that needs replacing I'll wait a while and get bits replaced and tracking done at the same time.

[toxo]

If you feel that your bushes and balljoints are beyond the point of needing replacement, why are you surprised that your handling is iffy?

Take it to somewhere with a proper laser alignment system (a Hunter device or similar).

There's a list here: http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/tyre-f ... entres.php

And as has been said above, you'll need an alignment after changing your bushes.