This is some useful information that was put up on another forum I am on

Where is the sensor located?
It needs to be on a good ground plane.

It needs a clean supply.

Is the sensor powered up all the time, or only when the alarm is armed?

If its only when armed, rewire the supply to it so it is powered all the time.

Turn the sensor all the way down, leave it 10 mins, then wind it up a bit, leave it 10 mins, then test

- repeat till happy with settings.

Microwave/prox's only become stable after being powered up for a while.

1.

Ideally, the proxy needs to be mounted on a horizontal plane in the car

- my preferred placements are in the roof directly over the area to be protected

(no good in convertibles, but this doesnt seem to be an issue here) or secondly in the centre of the car/area to be protected on the top of the transmission tunnel.

They need to be mounted directly onto a metal surface via sticky pad, hot glue or other similiar means.

They should not be placed on top of fabric or carpet.

And in response to your other question, no do not mount it on the firewall

- I could not think of a worst place to put one, bar perhaps a biscuit tin in the glovebox

2.

They are often biased to front or rear, dependant on model.

Your installation guide

*should* tell you this.

But try to picture this: A prox emits a

"bubble".

In an ideal world they will emit a perfectly circular dome, but that is never the case, the wiring loom entering the sensor will ruin that from the off, hence them being

"biased".

Normally prox's will emit an oval dome which will follow the line of the sensor, ie the oval will be have its longest dimension along the long dimension of the sensor, and the narrower part of the oval will be the shorter

(width) of the sensor.

The sensor will probably emit more

"power" or a longer throw out of the cable end to compensate for the cable entry

(this is the bias I am constantly referring too).

Position the sensor with this in mind.

3.

Prox's dont emit this magic bubble straight away, the bubble actually oscillates, and the longer it is powered up, the more stable it will become.

You cannot truly test the sensor until it has been powered up for at least 5 mins, preferably 10.

So ensure it is permanently fed, not on an

"armed" supply.

4.

Testing

- complex, lots of things to bear in mind.

As mentioned in 3, this bubble is oscillating, its not a bubble that can be broken, or intruded upon.

It detects moving mass.

The larger the mass, the faster its moving the quicker the sensor will detect it.

So if you move your hand in really slowly, it probably wont pick you up, or it will at least have a harder time than say, you sticking your entire torso through the window in an attempt to remove your head unit as quickly as possible.

Try to test away from fluorescent lighting, and make sure your mobile is elsewhere.

Whilst these things

*shouldnt* affect it, crappier proxes seem to be affected by dog farts, let alone gprs signals

When testing, start at a minimum, leaving the prox powered up for at least 5 mins.

Put as much of your upper body into the area to be protected as possible, and see how the prox reacts.

It might only pick you up when you are right on top of it.

Make small increases to the sensitivity, leaving it well alone to

"settle" again for 5

- 10mins before retesting it.

You may find that you think you have it nailed, and then an hour later a bus comes by a bit close and it triggers

- this happens, and it means your prox is very slow to settle, and the bubble has

"grown" over a longer period.

Once set up properly, proxs are generally very reliable sensors.

Things to take note of.

Proxs do not like metal above them or around them, only under them.

Metallic tints will screw with a prox quite nicely

- rendering them only detecting inside the car

(which is ok on single zone proxes, but dual zones, kiss goodbye to your warnaway chirps) or making them extremely unstable and triggerin for no apparent reason.

If you place your prox under your handbrake lever, the handbrake lever will render the prox only protecting either side of it, there will be a dead zone in the middle.

The same applies if you put them right in between the seats, you will get coverage of the front and back centre section of the car, but sod all to the edges

- hence my preferred placement being in the headlining

- harder to get in, harder to setup but far more effective

Hope this is enough for you to get it working