[Mk2] [NA] Just failed MOT, some questions..

[TheBaker]

Ok, not that I wasn't expecting to fail, some bits I literally wasn't expecting to fail.

Here's the sheet of what was wrong:(click to enlarge)



Questions:

About the emissions, can those results be due to the lack of cat? Or more, it has some minor leaks in the welding but I puttyed them. Also what is considered the rear exhaust, the downpipe?(It's got a decat on and I know this will fail but my mate did tell me they were friendly)

He said he didn't do the full test but When he put the pipe in the CO was ridiculously high, what element of the exhaust would that be related to? Has had new dizzy, leads and plugs the past while too.(had rotor too but it broke, replaced with old one for now)

The front breaking issue with the imbalance, could this be caused by the leaking hose and how can I test for it myself, I've never noticed imbalance at normal speeds.

Rear Binding break, I wasn't aware of this, what is the solution to fixing this? (Sometimes when on slopes before the car would make a droning sound like a large ship lol.. I take it that is due to this brake binding?)

Also, is a sunvisor strip really a fail?

Thanks for any help.

Gutted.

[LuizeGT]

that sheat says to me that he hasnt done the emissions test because there is too much of an exhaust leak, ie the holes that you puttied up maybe? so you wouldnt get a true reading. the CO would be due to having a decat i assume

binding brakes is due to the caliper seizing, you can strip the caliper off its carrier and clean up, check the piston isnt seized, may need refurbed caliper.
yes sunvisor is a fail if its in the zone, anything is

[ashley]

Sounds like the de-cat is your problem, but also- given how bad the leaks on your exhaust sound to be, it's possible that the oxygen sensor isn't giving a true reading (as gas is leaking out of the system before it hits the sensor), which could also be throwing things out.

Sounds like you need a new flexi/ mid section, a cat, and maybe some welding on your back box...

[TheBaker]

"Sounds like you need a new flexi/ mid section, a cat, and maybe some welding on your back box... "

Indeed, depressing as I can't afford that right now.

Have just seen a cheap backbox and cat on ebay though.

I was wondering, assuming I got a lend of a cat, how could I attach it to my current exhaust system as it has no flanges and I wouldn't be able to weld it, are there any special clips etc that can seal and hold it?

What parts are classed as front and rear exhaust do you know?

The only way I reckon he could have told there were leaks on exhaust is the metal tape around the welds of the decat(not even a proper decat, just a straight pipe) I don't think there are any issues elsewhere, maybe the downpipe connection but yeah definetely some welding needing done.

Also about the leaking brake fluid, this occurred when I changed my shock absorber last month, I thought I'd solved it by tightening it really hard but it still persists, just a little but not alot, is it possible I've put the washer back on the wrong side, I'm 90% sure it's on the correct side.. if not what else could it be?

Do you know of any guide to stripping/checking the calipers?

Thanks guys.

[Amebb]

hi there

the best thing i do when i take my car for the MOT is to put shell optimax in to thecar and there is another additive that i use that reduces the emissions big time..... and yes it does work.

Put the optimax and the emissions reducing additive into your tank drive it around (if you can) for about 30mins etc and then get the car emissions retested.

It should do the trick. If your engine is totally messed up then you need to sort that out first.

Thanks

[GMLMR2]

That mot looked very similar to one I was issued when I first had my 2

Break imbalance would mean one brake isn’t braking as hard as the other, you can get this problem for a few miles when you have just fitted new pads, you can carry this imbalance test on a open quiet straight road, go up the road at 60mph and brake hard if your car pulls to one side then you have an imbalance problem, this is pretty much always a seized piston or if your extremely lucky the cage which holds the pads in might have seized guides, the fronts are a pain in the ar$e to say the least because they are twin piston and usually only 1 gets stuck, its caused by a rust ring that forms between the inner seal and on the inner part of the dust boots and closes up on the piston which eventually leads to it being seized, I decided to rebuild all 4 callipers in the end all new seals, pistons, boots ect, I took out the rust rings with some fine sand paper and rebuilt the callipers using castrol silicone calliper grease, it’s been 4 years and brakes are tip top.

Regards to exhaust, well I took mine off completely manifold the lot and replaced it all with stainless steal, but in your case remove the lot and start again with a gasket rebuild set, it’s best that if you have holes never putty them up because it will burn out eventually, especially if you’ve used gumgum “proly the shitest stuff around”, if you have a mig welder to hand then touch them up with that, buy your self a gasket set and rebuild the entire exhaust system for peace of mind.

Lastly… emissions, well high co levels are caused by lol obviously not having a cat, if the car is suppose to have a cat then fit one, if you still have high co levels then the other culprit is the oxygen sensor located in the b pipe section.

Also anti roll bar linkage is the drops links, they have a ball joint on each end and are done up with a lock nut so make sure there done up tight and that the ball joints and dust boots are ok and not worn