[Mk2] [Turbo] Failed MOT - help with understanding sheet VT30

[dervbas]

Just failed the MOT, as usually, every year!

Please click on the thumbnail below to see a readable copy of the MOT failure sheet.



I know about the handbrake and headlamps, I can do them.

But where on the car are the problems located and what needs replacing for point 004, 005 and 006?

Any tips also welcome.

Thanks for reading.

[ashley]

004 Your exhaust isn't properly supported in the middle- I'm guessing you don't have the exahust mount that bolts to the rear sub frame fitted? Have a look under your car at your exhaust- the bit cicled below should be in a bush which bolts to the top of the rear subframe:




005 Drivers side rear wheel bearing needs replacing? This bearing:




006 One of the bushes in your Passenger's side rear suspension needs replacing:




Hope that helps

[asdrewq]

Excessive play in track control arm rear bush will require a new track control arm I'm afraid. It's a greased bearing, not a rubber bush.

This applies if it is in reference to the INNER bearing, as the outer is pressed into the Hub, and again it's likely a replacement hub would be needed to fix.

[dervbas]

It is proving very difficult to find a replacement bush/bearing for the joint (identified below) that has failed the MOT:



I've found what could be a replacement in poly form but I'm unsure if this is it as the description for the part is confusing since it doesn't mention that it goes in the hub:

http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/23 ... 6-305.html

Can anyone identify if this is it or point me in the direction of a replacement? (Note: I don't want to fork out for a full poly bush kit as I'll be selling the car immediately after MOT)

[ashley]

As mentioned by asdrewq above, this is not a part you can buy a replacement for- and it won't be included in a poly bush kit either. You have two options:

- replace the hub (call TCB and ask for a 2nd hand one)
- get hold of a scrap hub and press the joint out, then press it into your existing hub (not sure this is the usual thing to do- but it is what I ended up doing and it was surprisingly easy)

Hope that helps

[dervbas]

What tools did you use to pull the bearing out of the old hub and press it back in the hub for the car?

The garage doing the repairs to my car say they cannot remove the bearing as doing so would destroy it. They don't understand why I can't get hold of the bearing on its own as you would with any other car - its utterly ridiculous!

[ashley]

What tools did you use to pull the bearing out of the old hub and press it back in the hub for the car?

The garage doing the repairs to my car say they cannot remove the bearing as doing so would destroy it. They don't understand why I can't get hold of the bearing on its own as you would with any other car - its utterly ridiculous!

Right- first thing to point out is that it is not officially a service item- if you talk to toyota- it is a replacement hub, and you cannot buy replacement bearings.

So it all depends on you finding a scrap hub to get a decent bearing out of- so it may well be easier to simply find a second hand hub and replace the whole thing!

However, if you do want to replace just the bearing this is how I did it (but please remember I DO NOT recomend doing this!)

1. This is the bearing:



The rubber gromits are held in place by littel circular clips. You need to remove these really really carefully as you will need to reuse them and it is easy to bend them.

2. Bearing with the rubbers removed:



3. Get a monster socket that the whole bearing and shell will fit into, it needs to be deep enough for the whole thing to fit in, and wide enough for the shell to fit in without touching the edges.

You also need a smaller socket that is larger than the inner bearing- so sits on the outer shell, but is MUST be smaller than the hole through the hub, and small enough that it will not get jammed in the hole when you push it through!

Now set up the two sockets, and hub in a vice like so:



4. Now slowly do up the vice- the small socket should push the whole bearing through the hub and into the larger socket until it drops out:



5. Pressing the replacement bearing back in is simply the reverse of this process- you just need to be careful only press it into the hub until the outer shell sits flush with the hub...it needs to sit in the same position as the original bearing.

6. Apply some grease to the bearing, then stick the rubbers and clips back on...job done.


Hope that helps mate...

[GBTurbo]

Handbrake - Is there any "slack" on the actual handbrake lever? Like for example, you can easily lift the handbrake 5-10mm before anything happens?

If so, its probably one of the cables underneath. I had to do one of mine for my mot.

And there is the adjustment - http://mr2oc.co.uk/forums/41/134533.html

Any more questions just ask away

[dervbas]

£207 later, I have an MOT.

Firstly, an insanely massive thank you to ashman for the detailed post regarding removing a track tie bar bearing just above. People like you are who really drive the owners club and I really appreciate the time you gave up to document the method so precisely.

Thanks to all the other posters who have helped and gave support.

GBTurbo, I ended up purchasing a brand new rear nearside handbrake cable and that helped pass the problem on the second MOT.

Now, for the hub! I sourced a MR2 specialist in Bradford who was more than happy for me to drive up to his place late on a Friday night to take an offside rear Rev3 ABS hub from him for a very fair price.
This was pulled apart by the MOT mechanics and used it in conjunction with my Rev1 calipers and recently upgraded discs.
The result was a much tighter connection between the track rod and the track tie bar of the hub and sufficient to pass the second MOT.

I've learned then that the Rev1, 2 and 3 calipers all fit the same hub, regardless of SW20 revision; it is just whether you need an ABS-enabled hub or not that counts.

Car is for sale now as I cannot continue to keep up these expensive bills so there's a nice Rev1 tubby with 12 months MOT to join the 'for sale' list now.

Thank you all again

[ashley]

Result mate- well done!!