Does it matter if I attach rear drop links with thread pointing inwards?

[bluesmoke]

The OEM ones have the thread with the bolt on pointing out, but I can't fit my replacements on that way.

Will it make any difference to the feel of the car if I put them on the other way, so they are the same way as the fronts?

[Si_Crewe]

It's usually easier to fit them facing outward cos it's a bu88er to tighten the nut and, if you've got DLs with a hex-end on the thead, there's no room to get an allen key in.

If the DLs will go on facing the wrong way I don't suppose it's a big deal.
You might regret doing it that way when the time comes to replace them though, cos they'll be a total bu88er to remove again.

Top-tip: Loosen the 2 bolts holding the hub to the strut then remove the top bolt completely.
This will allow the hub to pivot downward and, importantly, the strut will move outward just enough that you can get the drop link in behind it.

[jimGTS]

/\
thanks for tip, im doing mine soon along with some whiteline arbs


bluesmoke, did those droplinks have a hex key hole on the end of the bolt?

[bluesmoke]

Cheers buddy.

Jim, yeah they have got the hex holes on them

[Marf]

Top-tip: Loosen the 2 bolts holding the hub to the strut then remove the top bolt completely.
This will allow the hub to pivot downward and, importantly, the strut will move outward just enough that you can get the drop link in behind it.

Careful doing that, loosening those bolts can affect your camber.

[Si_Crewe]

Top-tip: Loosen the 2 bolts holding the hub to the strut then remove the top bolt completely.
This will allow the hub to pivot downward and, importantly, the strut will move outward just enough that you can get the drop link in behind it.

Careful doing that, loosening those bolts can affect your camber.

You know of a way to fit new DLs that doesn't involve loosening them?

FWIW, those bolts are a VERY good fit though the struts and hubs. There's pretty-much zero play in anything, even without the bolts tightened up.

[Marf]

Top-tip: Loosen the 2 bolts holding the hub to the strut then remove the top bolt completely.
This will allow the hub to pivot downward and, importantly, the strut will move outward just enough that you can get the drop link in behind it.

Careful doing that, loosening those bolts can affect your camber.

You know of a way to fit new DLs that doesn't involve loosening them?

As I recall from when I fitted my aftermarket droplinks you can just pull/push on the ARB to give you the clearance needed to put the droplink onto the strut.

FWIW, those bolts are a VERY good fit though the struts and hubs. There's pretty-much zero play in anything, even without the bolts tightened up.

Perhaps mine has had different bolts fitted at some point in its life. Theres a good few degrees of camber adjustment to be had on my car by loosening the bolts and pivoting the hub around the shock.

[Si_Crewe]

[As I recall from when I fitted my aftermarket droplinks you can just pull/push on the ARB to give you the clearance needed to put the droplink onto the strut.

The ARB isn't the problem.

There's usually no way to get the top end of the DL in between the strut and the inner wheelarch.

[Marf]

Hmm odd. I don't remember there being space issues when I fitted mine.

[jimGTS]

resolved with pics?

[Marf]

Just looked through me phone for some pics, I fitted my drop links with the threaded parts facing inwards, hence no issues with clearance.

[bluesmoke]

There's deffo no way of getting them in without loosening the hub. I can't even get the ARB bushes in place before I do that.

[jimGTS]

Just looked through me phone for some pics, I fitted my drop links with the threaded parts facing inwards, hence no issues with clearance.

thats the fronts tho right?
backs are opposite way?

[Marf]

Not sure, I don't have any pics of the rears on my phone. Either way I had no clearance issues at either end.

Maybe my aftermarket drop links have less thread on them so they clear without faffing around.

Can check once I get the car back from Pete on Friday.

[toxo]

FWIW, those bolts are a VERY good fit though the struts and hubs. There's pretty-much zero play in anything, even without the bolts tightened up.

Perhaps mine has had different bolts fitted at some point in its life. Theres a good few degrees of camber adjustment to be had on my car by loosening the bolts and pivoting the hub around the shock.

Sam, you've probably got camber adjustment bolts in there (as have I). Not worth undoing them if you can avoid it because you don't know if you've got camber adjustable bolts until you take them out and then you need another wheel alignment

[vinnyninja]

not sure if were on about the same thing ... but i was trying to fit a new n/s frond DL the standard one snaped ans i couldnt fit the new one from peter G in my bc coilovers ,

the thred was to long to fit in the top of the leg ... so i just put um on the other way round on the anti roll bar and the top of my strut with the threads facing outwards........ turnd the wheels when it was on the deck .. no rubbing evrthing is working as it should be so in my eyes no problems

[Si_Crewe]

Sam, you've probably got camber adjustment bolts in there (as have I). Not worth undoing them if you can avoid it because you don't know if you've got camber adjustable bolts until you take them out and then you need another wheel alignment

Surely you could take one bolt out, see if it's a loose fit and then decide whether to proceed or not?

[toxo]

Sam, you've probably got camber adjustment bolts in there (as have I). Not worth undoing them if you can avoid it because you don't know if you've got camber adjustable bolts until you take them out and then you need another wheel alignment

Surely you could take one bolt out, see if it's a loose fit and then decide whether to proceed or not?

In this case, probably yes. However if the bolt you remove is a camber adjusting one it has to go back in exactly the same position it came out from.

There are other situations (when changing driveshafts and the like) you have to apply some pretty mega pressure to some parts to get it all to fit back together, and that's not to mention that some of the suspension components are at their full extension already with the car jacked up. I wouldn't be happy that 1 bolt with half the clamping force would hold things as required in those situations, which is why I just leave them alone if at all possible.

[jimGTS]

ok so whats the overall advise??

if they dont fit one way round (due to thread length), flip them 180degrees so facing the other way?
this isnt an issue for handling?

dont be removing anything other than the ARB out the way?

[bluesmoke]

Right, I would advise not fitting them the wrong way round. They ended up slightly touching my tyre on one side. Not something I would have wanted to leave like that!

I took the car for an alignment today, and had them put the DLs on the correct way around