Pull the plug on the alternator and check that your getting 12v on all 3 pins of the plug, could be a fault in the wiring to the alternator
Here's how to check for fault codes CLICKY
Spare Engine connectors near alternator
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Last edited by jimi on Tue Feb 06, 2024 9:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Ok - I have 12v at each of the pins on the alternator plug and with the plug removed the dash lights go out.... So I am still looking at an alternator issue! I will try another!
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
4th Alternator! Same problem
Paul Can you detail the check with the charge fuse - not sure how I need to check or do that bit?
I am going to try the diag bit now!
Paul Can you detail the check with the charge fuse - not sure how I need to check or do that bit?
I am going to try the diag bit now!
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
another update - bridged T & E1 in the Diag box - followed Jimi's guide - Amber engine light flashes every 4/5 seconds suggesting all is okay..... Removed AM2 fuse for a while tested all still the same 2 x red lights....
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Hi Guys,
thanks for all your help with this todate - problem still there....
Any final thoughts before I physically hit my head against a brick wall!
thanks
Steve
thanks for all your help with this todate - problem still there....
Any final thoughts before I physically hit my head against a brick wall!
thanks
Steve
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Pull the Charge fuse (engine bay fusebox) Looking at the fusebox from the passengers side of the car it should be the fuse nearest the front of the car, test between the battery -ve and each side of the socket the fuse goes into. With the ignition on (engine not running) you should get 12v on the Right side of the socket and 0v on the Left side.
Start the engine and do the same checks, you should now have at least 12v on the Left side. Replace the fuse.
Unplug the cooling fan ECU (in the boot behind the engine bulkhead trim panel on the drivers side I think it's grey) and see if you still get both lights with the engine running.
Post up the results.
Edited to correct the orientation of the fuse holder
Start the engine and do the same checks, you should now have at least 12v on the Left side. Replace the fuse.
Unplug the cooling fan ECU (in the boot behind the engine bulkhead trim panel on the drivers side I think it's grey) and see if you still get both lights with the engine running.
Post up the results.
Edited to correct the orientation of the fuse holder
Last edited by jimi on Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
jimi wrote:Pull the Charge fuse (engine bay fusebox) Looking at the fusebox from the passengers side of the car it should be the fuse nearest the rear of the car, test between the battery -ve and each side of the socket the fuse goes into. With the ignition on (engine not running) you should get 12v on the Left side of the socket and 0v on the Right side.
Start the engine and do the same checks, you should now have at least 12v on the Right side. Replace the fuse.
Unplug the cooling fan ECU (in the boot behind the engine bulkhead trim panel on the drivers side I think it's grey) and see if you still get both lights with the engine running.
Post up the results.
Pulled the charge fuse with just ignition on I am getting 11.4v on one side of the fuse socket and 0.4v on the other side????....
I unplugged the Cooling fan ECU and I still get both lights on the dash...?
Does this explain anything?? Hope so this is really annoying me!!
thanks for all your help
Steve
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
mister2mk1 wrote:
Pulled the charge fuse with just ignition on I am getting 11.4v on one side of the fuse socket and 0.4v on the other side????....
Could you try this bit as well
jimi wrote:Start the engine and do the same checks, you should now have at least 12v on the Right side.
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
jimi wrote:mister2mk1 wrote:
Pulled the charge fuse with just ignition on I am getting 11.4v on one side of the fuse socket and 0.4v on the other side????....
Could you try this bit as well
jimi wrote:Start the engine and do the same checks, you should now have at least 12v on the Right side.
I get 13.8v with the engine running on the right side and .36v on the left???
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
mister2mk1 wrote:
I get 13.8v with the engine running on the right side and .36v on the left???
On which side did you get the 11.4v with the ignition on and the engine off ?
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Just been out and checked on my car.
My apologies I was working off of the diagrams and got the orientation wrong
With the Charge fuse out and ignition on
Left side of the fuse holder should show less the 1v.
Right side should be battery voltage (call it 12V)
and no lights on the dash
Still with the fuse out and now with the engine running
Left side should show around 13.8v ( alternator output voltage)
Right side should be approx the same.
Going by this you either have a faulty alternator (unlikely as you have tried several) or a open circuit in the wiring between the alternator and the fuse (odds on favourite)
To prove it you can use a length of wire to link between the L terminal of the alternator (you will need to keep the plug in the alt and link from the back of it) and the Right hand side of the fuseholder. The dash lights should go out.
Also check the voltage on the L terminal of the alternator from the back of the plug with the plug in and engine running, should be around 13.8v, if it's not then could be a bad contact in the plug or the alternator is faulty.
Alternator terminals
My apologies I was working off of the diagrams and got the orientation wrong
With the Charge fuse out and ignition on
Left side of the fuse holder should show less the 1v.
Right side should be battery voltage (call it 12V)
and no lights on the dash
Still with the fuse out and now with the engine running
Left side should show around 13.8v ( alternator output voltage)
Right side should be approx the same.
I get 13.8v with the engine running on the right side and .36v on the left???
Going by this you either have a faulty alternator (unlikely as you have tried several) or a open circuit in the wiring between the alternator and the fuse (odds on favourite)
To prove it you can use a length of wire to link between the L terminal of the alternator (you will need to keep the plug in the alt and link from the back of it) and the Right hand side of the fuseholder. The dash lights should go out.
Also check the voltage on the L terminal of the alternator from the back of the plug with the plug in and engine running, should be around 13.8v, if it's not then could be a bad contact in the plug or the alternator is faulty.
Alternator terminals
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Thanks Jimi - I noticed the original lefts and rights were the opposite way round!!!
Okay a bit of wiring to play with then.... uuuggghh!
thanks again though - I will let you know how I get on.....
Okay a bit of wiring to play with then.... uuuggghh!
thanks again though - I will let you know how I get on.....
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
check ECU Ig fuse; do your reverse lights work?
i take it your battery is dying or does it keep charge? is it a good battery?
i take it your battery is dying or does it keep charge? is it a good battery?
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Brand new battery - not actually suffering from charge issue as car is garaged for winter and has only just been rebuilt - just annoyingly got the 2 dash lights....
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
i dont think it has anything to do with the fan; my thoughts were that when the battery doesnt have enough juice the engine bay fan light lights up first.... later followed by the power steering if being driven. bro had this problem on his car (reverse switch faulty hence no battery charge; his PS & engine bay fan lights came on although there was no battery light on his.) once switch was sorted and battery was getting charged both those lights went off.
your battery light is on suggesting its not being charged but if it is then really could be the way its put back together or some of the elec contacts are not making a proper contact (rust on pins etc).
your battery light is on suggesting its not being charged but if it is then really could be the way its put back together or some of the elec contacts are not making a proper contact (rust on pins etc).
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
MK1's don't have power steering
85 MK1 MR2 Track N/Ail | 99 528i SE Touring | 01 Mandarin VX220
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
just a thought - even though it is a brand new battery - could the battery be at fault - I have just rang the firm where I got it and they are happy to swap it out for another.....?
just a thought - wont do any harm.....?
just a thought - wont do any harm.....?
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
System-G wrote:MK1's don't have power steering
yes but thats not the point i was just highlighting that even though the engine fan light is on it doesnt have to the source of the problem...
always worth trying new batteries bud
Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
mister2mk1 wrote:just a thought - even though it is a brand new battery - could the battery be at fault - I have just rang the firm where I got it and they are happy to swap it out for another.....?
just a thought - wont do any harm.....?
it's not the battery, this is the fault
I get 13.8v with the engine running on the right side and .36v on the left???
Did you try what I suggested ?
Going by this you either have a faulty alternator (unlikely as you have tried several) or a open circuit in the wiring between the alternator and the fuse (odds on favourite)
To prove it you can use a length of wire to link between the L terminal of the alternator (you will need to keep the plug in the alt and link from the back of it) and the Right hand side of the fuseholder. The dash lights should go out.
Also check the voltage on the L terminal of the alternator from the back of the plug with the plug in and engine running, should be around 13.8v, if it's not then could be a bad contact in the plug or the alternator is faulty.
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Re: Spare Engine connectors near alternator
Hi Jimi - No not had chance to run a wire to it yet but will definately try this
Been on call all weekend so havent done anything to the car...
Will the post the results of the above ASAP
thanks again
Been on call all weekend so havent done anything to the car...
Will the post the results of the above ASAP
thanks again