thanks in advance
John
Shock Absorbers?!
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jones_2001_2000
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Shock Absorbers?!
can anybody help me with where to buy and how to fit shock asorbers to my MR2 G Limited 1991 looked at many websites but mainly finding aftermarket coils and dont want then, just to fix what got!!
thanks in advance
John
thanks in advance
John
Re: Shock Absorbers?!
Superb guide here:
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2/mk2/ ... rings.html
You're a bit limited with shocks TBH.
AFAIK there's only yellow or black Billies, or standard Toyota items(which are actually quite cheap).
Some more pics here:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=106016
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2/mk2/ ... rings.html
You're a bit limited with shocks TBH.
AFAIK there's only yellow or black Billies, or standard Toyota items
(which are actually quite cheap).Some more pics here:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=106016
Re: Shock Absorbers?!
Hi
They are easy to change the difficult bit is the bolt on the top of the shock piston, I undo it a few turns while its still on the car with weight on them makes it wee easy!
Once off the car slowly undo nut and be ready for the twang, they are not too bad and don't go flying, just have a good hold on the top mount.
When putting the legs back together you can put your body weight(9 Stone I weigh) on the top mount pushing the spring while doing the nut back up, then once done up tight as you can get it use a new latex glove and hold piston with the gloved hand, this gives you a few more turns as it stops the piston from turning more grip, once done up fit back to car and put car all together, once car is back together give the top nuts another go as now its easy to do up making sure they are tight, the top mount and shock piston have a retangular slot in / on so make sure its all lined up and home ells the piston / nut will just spin if it does its not fitted correctly.
You will have to take the break hoses off the calipers or whereever is easyer and poke though the brackets that hold them to the strutt ells you have to cut and bend the metal, obveously on a new set you don't want to slice the bracket so undoing the break hose on each one in turn is the better idea, just bleed the system once its all done, 2 people job, get the wife she now has a use !!
4x 14mm nuts hold top mount/ strut to chassis at front and 3 x 14mm nuts hold rear top mounts / strut to chassis, I think from memory its 2 x 17mm nuts and bolts hold the shock to the wheel hub, these are tight so long ratchet or bar on the end of one to shift them once loose they undo easy generally.
The bad part is the drop down links(from anti roll bar to shock) these are the worst, they use allen key sockets and these round out very easy and then you have to cut them off with grinder / saw and replace.
The drop links are held on by 14mm nuts, I find it best to spray with WD40 and leave overnight then put a ring spanner on nut and belt it with a hammer a few times till its loose, then put your allen key in to hold center pin still, oh remember with a small flat blade to clear out the allen key socket hole on the drop link of all the mud and stuff so the allen key goes all the way in, its not that deep to start with so you need it to fit well if it is still tight.
One word of caution just watch the recoil on the springs when the nut comes off the end of shock its not too bad but if your not ready it will make you jump.
Fensport sell yellow billys that fit spot on.
Hope this helps.
They are easy to change the difficult bit is the bolt on the top of the shock piston, I undo it a few turns while its still on the car with weight on them makes it wee easy
!Once off the car slowly undo nut and be ready for the twang, they are not too bad and don't go flying, just have a good hold on the top mount.
When putting the legs back together you can put your body weight
(9 Stone I weigh) on the top mount pushing the spring while doing the nut back up, then once done up tight as you can get it use a new latex glove and hold piston with the gloved hand, this gives you a few more turns as it stops the piston from turning more grip, once done up fit back to car and put car all together, once car is back together give the top nuts another go as now its easy to do up making sure they are tight, the top mount and shock piston have a retangular slot in / on so make sure its all lined up and home ells the piston / nut will just spin if it does its not fitted correctly.You will have to take the break hoses off the calipers or whereever is easyer and poke though the brackets that hold them to the strutt ells you have to cut and bend the metal, obveously on a new set you don't want to slice the bracket so undoing the break hose on each one in turn is the better idea, just bleed the system once its all done, 2 people job
, get the wife she now has a use !!4x 14mm nuts hold top mount
/ strut to chassis at front and 3 x 14mm nuts hold rear top mounts / strut to chassis, I think from memory its 2 x 17mm nuts and bolts hold the shock to the wheel hub, these are tight so long ratchet or bar on the end of one to shift them once loose they undo easy generally.The bad part is the drop down links
(from anti roll bar to shock) these are the worst, they use allen key sockets and these round out very easy and then you have to cut them off with grinder / saw and replace.The drop links are held on by 14mm nuts, I find it best to spray with WD40 and leave overnight then put a ring spanner on nut and belt it with a hammer a few times till its loose, then put your allen key in to hold center pin still, oh remember with a small flat blade to clear out the allen key socket hole on the drop link of all the mud and stuff so the allen key goes all the way in, its not that deep to start with so you need it to fit well if it is still tight.
One word of caution just watch the recoil on the springs when the nut comes off the end of shock its not too bad but if your not ready it will make you jump.
Fensport sell yellow billys that fit spot on.
Hope this helps.