But what looks to be a similar package by Rogue lists them both as idlers.
TBH I've no idea what a tensioner looks like so can't confirm
But I'd make sure the tensioner is done when you change your belt - I have a 100% record (of 2 cars) of dealerships mucking up cambelt changes - one was on a Mazda 323 1.8 (non-interference engine) where the tensioner chewed the belt around 2 months after being fitted - the other where Toyota handed back my car with the tensioner making noises (they sorted it, but it should never have been given back to me!).
Oh, and perhaps change the water pump too
well lets just say. doing anything on the tiiming end is a b1tch of a job. most say drop the engine but you dont need to. it doesnt give much space to work in tho.
so if you want to keep the costs down just replaice the belt. your bearings should be ok and if you follow the right procedure for retentioning the tentioner then that should be cool to.
its the luck of the draw here. i did this and a cpl of weeks later my water pump went. so i had to do it again.
so my suggestion would be to replaice the belt, check the condition of the bearing, and if you cant retention the tentioner do that too. and maybe the water pump.
Well in truth I don't actually need to change it. It's (possibly) making some weird noises (see my other post) was going to change the idlers and tensioner as they werent done when it was changed so guessed it might be them