www.imoc.co.uk

You should be using a tap handle on them.

Remember the remains you should try to get red hot.

I have 7mm holes all the way through the stud, ive tried to extract but they will not budge. If you have managed to get that far then I'd try heating up the remains and then using an extractor like below on the remains. http://cdn.toolstation.com/images/141020-UK/800/51010.jpg Has worked a few time...

If there is enough meat left you can try to use a stud extractor, like below.



If not then your options are a little more limited like drilling and removing.

Why do you need to remove it?

If the manifold is going back on then just leave it all connected.

If not then the above advice is good. If you're heating bolts to try and get them off then you really need to get them near red-hot.

Use the dishwasher, but make sure the significant other is not at home when you do

Whilst I don't disagree that the price of a new sensor is a tad excessive, you need to understand that there is a reasonable amount of thought that goes into selecting the appropriate wire for an application. Especially for something like an ABS sensor where the signal is transmitted on a balanced l...

Another repair tip for the ghetto brothers

Try pushing down on the cover as somebody pulls the lever.

Also may be possible to squirt some WD40 in the direction of the catch.

The left rear shock feels stiff, like too stiff and very hard to compress by body weight. This would be a bit worrying to me. It's not usually the shocks which cause a problem with compression, but rather the springs, unless they are really screwed. Think i'd be stripping down the suspension first ...

Kiefer wrote:

MartinF wrote:I'll take the rear tie rods, assuming they're straight.

Il pop them off next weekend if you don't mind the wait

Any joy with these ?

Yeah, sounds like it could be an ignition or cam timing issue. Both relatively easy to check.

No problem, once you're ready then drop me a PM with the price and we can get sorted.

Thanks

I'll take the rear tie rods, assuming they're straight.

Unplug that connector and perform a continuity test from that exposed piece of wire to the other side of the connector, the side which attaches to the sensor. I suspect it's open circuit. If so you will need to find somebody with a spare loom and ask if they'll supply you that connector with a lengt...

Put it on 10v, that should be fine.

Also I think the positive probe should be on VF1, like when you checked with your digital meter.

Buy the Eibach or similar bolts, remove the top bolt from your strut and insert the new bolt so it is not straining against the strut or hub carrier, tighten to recommended spec.

Then when you go to your chosen alignment place they will adjust this bolt as required.

Does the engine light come on when you start the car?

mr299ron wrote:Any other UK suppliers?

Yeah, all the Toyota dealers listed on the Toyota.co.uk website

I managed to get hold of a set of the brackets made by Rogue. May be an option depending on how your seats fix.

Have a look at the VIN plate in the frunk for your gearbox type, assuming it hasn't been replaced at a later date.

As for the filler bolt the one you link to won't work as it has an unthreaded section. Easiest thing to do is just get one from Toyota or try calling TCB Parts.