[Mk2] [Turbo] 350-400 bhp on a rev1

[LuizeGT]

as i need a turbo ive come to the idea that its time to get some power.

what do you think i will need to get me too this? ben looking at a few turbos, mainly 2nd hand as thismont ive got a bit of a cash flow problem until mid feb.

for instance the garrett GT30R thats in the sales, would this run off rev3 injectors and rail ok or would it need uprated injectors?

il be doing a rev3 conversion soon to loose the AFM and an uprated fuelpump at the same time.

i had a new clutch in july, an exedy organic clutch. do you think this will hold 350bhp or will i burn it out?

will i be ok on stock internals? suspected forges in there but yet to be seen, got high compression of an even 230psi on all 4 will this be ok for power?


ANY info is great so i know in my head what to do and budget for

[nisnos]

IMO id forget the rev 3 conversion as you wont get 350whp from that regardless of what turbo is slapped on.

The gt30r will have to run on simply actuator/wastegate spring pressure circa 8 psi or youll probably go lean due to the sheer volume of air they can push.

Next weakness is ringlands on the pistons.

Now, the next question to ask is what is your budget? 350 - 400 rwhp isnt cheap.

Remember the oldie - cheap, fast, reliable pick 2 all 3 costs£££££

[Peter Gidden]

To add to Dave's reply - or maybe clarify - your fuelling requirements will have to be met by at least a piggyback, if not a standalone ECU.

So internals, ECU, turbo kit... Budget for at least £3K parts alone.

[LuizeGT]

thought the AFM was a big restriction thats why i was getting rid.

not really got a budget, its more of a "how much will it cost" to get reliable and fast. id be happy with 350 wheel power,

so in your opinion i need piston work? ie ringlands. if im going that far then might aswell go forged if its not already, if it is then great.

that turbo was just an example really as is in the sale forum. would i get that sort of power from a CT20b? or CT26 hybrid?

[Spacey]

Lou, my build is for 350 ish rwhp and the engine looks like below. Basically you need to spend a lot. I haven't added this up yet. ECU, injectors, rail and mapping yet to go but the rest is in now:

Aeromotive 13109 Fitting Kit
Aeromotive 13109 Fuel Pressure Regulator
Apexi Power FC 93/Rev3+
Apexi Power Intake - Rev 3+ Turbo
APR Uprated Head Stud Kit
Blitz DSBC Spec R Boost Controller
Blitz DTT Version 4 Turbo Timer
Clevitte 77 Big End Bearing Kit
Clevitte Main Bearing Kit
Eagle Con Rod Set
Greddy R-SPL Intercooler Kit
GT3071r-wg turbo kit
HKS 264 Exhaust Camshaft
HKS 264 Intake Camshaft
HKS Adjustable Cam Gears
HKS Hiper Exhaust
HKS SSQV BOV
HKS Stopper Metal Head Gasket 1.2mm
HKS Valve Spring Kit
JE Forged Piston Kit 86.5mm
Mild head port
Supra fuel pump
xxxx 3SGTE 3" Stainless Downpipe
Vmax Engine Anti-Torque Bar
Wolfkatz TFFR / 870cc Injector Package Rev 3+ Turbo

[LuizeGT]

thats an impressive spec!!!

what il do then i think is get a capable turbo but run it low if i can? and build the spec bit by bit and do head ork in one go poberbly summer time as there will be more light hours to the day and warmer.

so if i start with a turbo? ive got an intercooler, fuel pump, exhaust and downpipe on, then when ive got all the bits for headwork and an ECU i can get it popped in and mapped.

do i need cams or is that a safe thing?

[TBDevelopments]

just remember lou that if you buy a second hand turbo make sure you get all the fitting kit with it.

Theres little point purchasing a GT3076 (gt30r) by itself as its not a simple job of fitting you'll need all the parts to make it fit to the car. Its a long list and will usually cost you more than the turbo to start with.

just be aware of that before you buy the first thing you see.

When we spoke before and you said about your budget a second hand ct20b or good condition hybrid is about the only thing you'll get i'm afraid as even the GT turbo kits second hand still get over £1000ish new.

Tim
xxxx

[Owen @ Kent Car Craft]

Luize,
If you fancy it,i'm selling my 440+hp rev2 with rev3 conversion.
The engine is run in, all you would need to do is enjoy it.you could remove the hassle of an expensive build(£2k+?)/tuning(£1k+?) and running in, make me an offer on mine if you like matey?
PM me
Owen

[LuizeGT]

very tempting!! but ive done a load of bodywork on mine which is stopping me from buying a ready tuned one just curious but what sort of price are you after? lol

tim, not going for anything like that i dont think. was just curious. my budget might be growing abit more now other plans have gone on hold so i can fund a better turbo. prob got a grand to play with at the mo

[nisnos]

Hi again,

It is recommended to change the pistons as a precaution, as its the ringlands that go first usually.

Rods and crank are very very tough but most do them anyway as a matter of course - mainly due to the fact that the engine is in bits anyway!

Piston wise, id say go for the Wossners as they are stock size so you can leave the block in place and simply glaze bust the bores - however if your bores are damaged then youll need a rebore and your choice of pistons to suit the rebore size.

stock hg is good but again, if its in bits go mls ie tte etc.

stock head/rod bolts are good but again, most uprate to arp or the like.

same with engine bearings - stock are v good, but most uprate.

Change the oil pump as a matter of course to safeguard yourself.

Next is cams - if you like.


As Tim rightly says - the turbo alone is useless withou a fitting kit, and many have found that by sourcing a separate turbo and then putting the kit together is vastly more expensive - and a damn hassle.


for your power goals the ATS td06 (sbits)can reach the lower end ie 350rwhp, but its at high boost, the most suitable would be a the larger of the KO turbos or the gt35r etc - various versions available from TB, sbits, rogue thor etc.

hope it helps.


circa 3-5 grand job done.

[LuizeGT]

35k dont sound bad.

would it be worth while going for a stroker kit as that wil hve all pistons and stuff in already. any ideas how good these are?

at the mo i think im going to put on a turbo but still save for this work and have it off road throught the winter instead. that way more cash to do things whilst its open like you say. if im going to do the work then i ant max bhp that i can so extra cash will be needed

[nisnos]

stroker kit isnt needed for your goals - but again it wont harm.


A stroker kit will require you to remove the engine for a rebore.

[Gary ST165]

programmable ECU + map sensor + injector swap will give good power gains until the engine lets go. at which point simply rebuild or sell the ECU etc.

ECU is a good long term investment. choose the right one, at the end of the day you will have no trouble selling it for what you paid.

[SB]

Piston wise, id say go for the Wossners as they are stock size so you can leave the block in place and simply glaze bust the bores

IMHO thats not strictly true.

Most piston manufacturers do stock sizes - I know my CP's are 86mm, and IIRC Wiseco & JE do at least as well.

Anyhow, forged pistons generally specify greater clearances than the stock pistons, and on two ~ 60k blocks I've found that a simple quick hone hasn't provided enough clearance for the CP 86mm pistons...

[nisnos]

Piston wise, id say go for the Wossners as they are stock size so you can leave the block in place and simply glaze bust the bores

IMHO thats not strictly true.

Most piston manufacturers do stock sizes - I know my CP's are 86mm, and IIRC Wiseco & JE do at least as well.

Anyhow, forged pistons generally specify greater clearances than the stock pistons, and on two ~ 60k blocks I've found that a simple quick hone hasn't provided enough clearance for the CP 86mm pistons...

I was referring to the wossners as i have fitted these to my engine and a couple of others .

I cant comment on the CP as ive not seen their fitment issues

[SB]

There aren't any "fitment issues" with the CP pistons... I was merely pointing out that depending on block wear, ovality and condition of the bores a simple "glaze bust and drop in 86mm pistons" may not be the best of ideas, especially for reliable long term running

Most forged pistons require greater clearances than the stock pistons - they are made of different materials and thus expand differently after all - simply having a glaze bust and dropping them in could be a potential disaster. If you're going to the effort of doing it, do it properly IMHO...

[Ryan.g]

All pistons have a different silicon content which alter the clearances needed.

Wossners may have more silicon content, rejecting more heat so the expansion rate is not as much.

But too much silicon content is not good in some engines

[nisnos]

There aren't any "fitment issues" with the CP pistons... I was merely pointing out that depending on block wear, ovality and condition of the bores a simple "glaze bust and drop in 86mm pistons" may not be the best of ideas, especially for reliable long term running

err think you should read my post properly SB

Piston wise, id say go for the Wossners as they are stock size so you can leave the block in place and simply glaze bust the bores - however if your bores are damaged then youll need a rebore and your choice of pistons to suit the rebore size.[/qoute]

[SB]

err think you should read my post properly SB

I probably should

[LuizeGT]

cool

been reading up on TD05 and TD06.
which is the better one?

rated pretty good. would suit me forkeeping stock at the moment but good fun and potential later on when i plumb some dosh into it