Koni suspension kit - any good?

[tamiyauk]

I've seen this Koni kit
http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/koni/suspension.html
with Koni springs and bump stops, I'm guessing it's adjustable for the MK1, is it a good set to buy?
I know that some people have used different springs with Koni shocks, are the Koni springs OK?
Is there anything else I need before fitting this to the car? Any special tools?
Opinions welcome,
Cheers

[System-G]

Koni are the best adjustable shocks for the MK1. I wasn't aware that Koni made springs though... Most packages that include springs will have the springs made by another reputable manufacturer. So in short yes a damn good kit.

As far as tools are concerned, you will need a torque wrench, spring compressors, a huge breaker bar and a seriously sturdy work-top with a vice or some other meathod of bracing the suspension strut. The top nuts holding the shocks in place are a right bistard to get loose. Oh and a china marker or some tippex to mark the camber thingies before removing the suspension assembly.

Try find Laurens "How-To" it contails pretty much all you need to know.

[MegatronUK]

Ditto Cracking set of bits for your mk1!

[Hebruins]

Koni indeed doesn't make springs for the AW11, so despite the picture, that set will come with other brand springs

[MegatronUK]

Koni indeed doesn't make springs for the AW11, so despite the picture, that set will come with other brand springs

Usually Apex or Rock in the UK. I've got the Apex springs on - they're approx 30mm lower and are uprated over standard.

[monkeyra]

I've got koni adjustables on my mk2.

Only just picked up the car, so am playing with the settings at the moment.

Soft is springy though!

[Jimbo_Jet]

When I eventually update my suspension I'm def interested in this Koni kit! Do people who have it fitted think it deteriorates the ride quality at all?

[nick_w]

Oh and a china marker or some tippex to mark the camber thingies before removing the suspension assembly.

.

what camber thingies??

ive just fitted a koni kit on mine with jamex springs, and it is good

[Hebruins]

Koni indeed doesn't make springs for the AW11, so despite the picture, that set will come with other brand springs

Usually Apex or Rock in the UK. I've got the Apex springs on - they're approx 30mm lower and are uprated over standard.

I've got the Apex with my Koni's to (bought them separately), haven't fitted them, so no comments on ride quallity from me yet.

[Lauren]

When I eventually update my suspension I'm def interested in this Koni kit! Do people who have it fitted think it deteriorates the ride quality at all?

If you run them on full soft with uprated springs then they are comfy enough but still well damped. On hard they are not comfy, choice is yours though.

It depends a lot if you qualify comfy as under-damped or not. Remember its not a luxobarge, so the ride should be well controlled. I think on full soft the konis with well matched springs give a very good ride/handling compromise.

[Jimbo_Jet]

I think on full soft the konis with well matched springs give a very good ride/handling compromise.

So not too dissimilar to the OEM MrT set up then? If it could also reduce the body roll that the OEM set up has then that would be ideal for me for me! Especially if I could turn up the konis if I was in the mood or was to take it on track.

[j0nathan]

I think on full soft the konis with well matched springs give a very good ride/handling compromise.

So not too dissimilar to the OEM MrT set up then? If it could also reduce the body roll that the OEM set up has then that would be ideal for me for me! Especially if I could turn up the konis if I was in the mood or was to take it on track.

Jimbo: remember at the club meet a few months back we discussed this - mine is Koni with Fensport spring. If you want to feel what it is like then ask at the next meet and we'll go for a spin. My set up is quite hard even at full soft setting so wondered if I need to either:
a) go back to stock height springs
b) go to slightly softer springs but retain the lowered height

My Konis set to hard are way way too hard for the road under normal conditions. I have driven it like this but you would crash from bump to bump on any seriously pitted roads. It does not roll though!!!

Jon

[System-G]

Oh and a china marker or some tippex to mark the camber thingies before removing the suspension assembly.

.

what camber thingies??

The Camber adjustment cam is one the suspension arm of the hub assembly. If any of these move the camber will be affected hindering handling of the car. Saying that though, if any suspension work is done - especially lowering, a decent geometry reset is needed. This means full 4-wheel alignment (not tracking). 4-whell alignment (full geometry) costs around £80 - £100. Regular alignment (tracking) only cost around £20 - £50.

Clearly seen in a pic from Lauren's site here:

[Lauren]

I think on full soft the konis with well matched springs give a very good ride/handling compromise.

So not too dissimilar to the OEM MrT set up then? If it could also reduce the body roll that the OEM set up has then that would be ideal for me for me! Especially if I could turn up the konis if I was in the mood or was to take it on track.

Jimbo: remember at the club meet a few months back we discussed this - mine is Koni with Fensport spring. If you want to feel what it is like then ask at the next meet and we'll go for a spin. My set up is quite hard even at full soft setting so wondered if I need to either:
a) go back to stock height springs
b) go to slightly softer springs but retain the lowered height

My Konis set to hard are way way too hard for the road under normal conditions. I have driven it like this but you would crash from bump to bump on any seriously pitted roads. It does not roll though!!!

Jon

What fensport springs do you have? I ran 20% uprated 30mm lower and thought the ride was pretty good really on full soft.

You will still get body roll even on full hard and a fair degree of it too... MK1s always err on the soft side.

pic of my old SC running konis & fensport springs set full stiff on rear and medium on front:


I always ran hard on the rear and medium on the front on the road and track... yes it would crash over potholes but you get used to avoiding them.

Only way to counteract bodyroll is to fitter bigger ARBs. A 16mm rear ARB helps a lot.

[System-G]

I run KYB shocks and PI springs. The ride is extremely hard and I still get a fair bit of body roll too.

Photo from last anglesey day:

[Jimbo_Jet]

Jimbo: remember at the club meet a few months back we discussed this - mine is Koni with Fensport spring. If you want to feel what it is like then ask at the next meet and we'll go for a spin.

Yeah cheers for that Jon, I really wouldn't mind going for a spin in it next month if you wouldn't mind? I remember trying to push the front of your car down in the car park in December - it was rock solid!

It's interesting to hear what you've just said about the lowered springs - I had wondered if they would lower the ride quality more than I would like, as I would presume that the koni kit with a 35mm drop, or whatever it is, is going to have to use springs at least 30% stiffer than OEM?

I've limited experience at the mo so would love to see how yours feel - but my thoughts have been to go for Koni adjustable socks but partner them with some standard height springs which I would get made to spec from Fensport. I think I'd prob go for progressively wound springs winding up from 10% over standard OEM up to 30% stiffer than OEM, with a view to containing body roll a bit more. I'm guessing starting at 10% stiffer than OEM might be a good match for the Konis which people have mentioned even on the soft settings are around 10% stiffer than the OEM shocks. Just ideas at the mo

[Jimbo_Jet]

I run KYB shocks and PI springs. The ride is extremely hard and I still get a fair bit of body roll too.

Hmmmmm, I prob should think about upgrading both ARB's at the same time then This is going to end up being a huge project for me I was originally planning just to replace the springs and shocks, but then decided I might as well do the bushes as well. Now I think I might chuck a couple of bigger ARB's at it as well.......... best start saving!

[nick_w]

Oh and a china marker or some tippex to mark the camber thingies before removing the suspension assembly.

.

what camber thingies??

The Camber adjustment cam is one the suspension arm of the hub assembly. If any of these move the camber will be affected hindering handling of the car. Saying that though, if any suspension work is done - especially lowering, a decent geometry reset is needed. This means full 4-wheel alignment (not tracking). 4-whell alignment (full geometry) costs around £80 - £100. Regular alignment (tracking) only cost around £20 - £50.

Clearly seen in a pic from Lauren's site here:
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mark.nias/ ... nge/17.jpg

oh dam i wish id known that, is there anyway of setting it yourself, also where should it be set to, has anyone got any photos of where theres are set to

[LimeyMk1]

ARBs aren't that expensive, mine cost $105 IIRC. A fair amount of choice for the Mk1 as well if you don't mind importing parts.

[jrleech]

Yep, Koni's rock. On the softest setting they are equivalent to a new set of Toyota shocks (which are pretty damn good), stiffen them up a bit and lose that roll

Not sure if new Toyota shocks and beefy ARB's would have the same effect??

Poly bushes are a major improvement too..

Cheers,
Jon