Are there any subs that fit in rear boxes?

[ryan]

I'm hacked off with my wimpy Infinity 6x9's sitting on my rear storage boxes and was wondering if there were any subs that could be located in these boxes?
I don't want to lose the area above the boxes to a big 12" sub as I need to store the T bar glass when i've got the roof out and wat to retain the standard interior look as much as possible.
I curerently have a decent head unit, but one of the pre outs is faulty (what are pre outs? ). Will this limit my options? The reason I know the pre out is faulty is because the 6x9's would work intermittantly, and if you *banged* the dash, they would suddenly work
Anyway, the bloke from uplands just connected them in some other way so that they would bypass this faulty pre-out.
The 6x9's are run through an under bonnet pioneer 300w amp, and the shoulder height speakers were disconnected due to them not being able to handle the power. The front speakers are std and not amped.
Any ideas?
Also what is a bass box/ tube Anyone

[Shmed]

Hi,
Seems a strange conclusion to come to that the pre-out is bust, but still, normal decent head units have three sets of pre-outs (front, rear and sub) you can get a 6.5" JL sub for about £60-80, not rock your world bass, but get one or two behind each seat and you'll know about it. They fit into the original hole when pointing up (not forwards) but you have to make your own piece from MDF (or chop the original, but I wouldn't recommend it).

If you haven't got a separate sub pre-out it doesn't matter as most decent amps have a low pass filter to remove the higher frequencies. Easy way to check your pre-outs is to use the stereo fader. If the sound goes when faded to the front, the rear pre-outs are being used and are ok (check using balance for right and left), If the sound goes when faded to the rear, the front pre-outs are being used and are ok (check using balance for right and left), and if the sound never goes, then you are connected using a sub pre-out.

The JL speakers are about 75w RMS (approx 150w peak), but if you run a few of them wired up right, you could extract the full power of a 300w amp. (The subs are available in 4 and 8 ohm impedance which enables more flexibility when wiring more than one).

Hope this helps, can elaborate more if required.

[Shmed]

Also what is a bass box/ tube Anyone

A bass box is a sealed or ported enclosure (or box) with a sub in it.

A bass tube is a sealed or ported enclosure (or tube) with a sub in it.

Some are pre-amped, others aren't, some are cheap, others aren't. Many available at Motor (Chav) World made by Boss.

[Shmed]

Check http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/profile.ph ... file&u=762 there is a pic of an aforementioned sub behind seat - pig to fit, but working with 1" perspex is a pig!!!

[ryan]

Hi,
Seems a strange conclusion to come to that the pre-out is bust, but still, normal decent head units have three sets of pre-outs (front, rear and sub) you can get a 6.5" JL sub for about £60-80, not rock your world bass, but get one or two behind each seat and you'll know about it. They fit into the original hole when pointing up (not forwards) but you have to make your own piece from MDF (or chop the original, but I wouldn't recommend it).

If you haven't got a separate sub pre-out it doesn't matter as most decent amps have a low pass filter to remove the higher frequencies. Easy way to check your pre-outs is to use the stereo fader. If the sound goes when faded to the front, the rear pre-outs are being used and are ok (check using balance for right and left), If the sound goes when faded to the rear, the front pre-outs are being used and are ok (check using balance for right and left), and if the sound never goes, then you are connected using a sub pre-out.

The JL speakers are about 75w RMS (approx 150w peak), but if you run a few of them wired up right, you could extract the full power of a 300w amp. (The subs are available in 4 and 8 ohm impedance which enables more flexibility when wiring more than one).

Hope this helps, can elaborate more if required.

Thanks, great help. There is no change whether I fade or balance the speakers, so I guess they are connected to the sub pre out. Your set up would be what i'm looking for, but I find the sound is often drowned out by the seat backrest (recline your passanger seat and see what I mean; it lets through much more sound!) With this in mind, would it be possible to run the shoulder height std speakers whilst having 2 subs and of course the door speakers going?

Many thanks
Ryan

[Shmed]

It can be done, depending on the head unit. I've only got one mono amp at the minute which runs off the sub pre-out, which leaves all four speaker cables free to wire up to door speakers and shoulder speakers, which is adequate for the moment.

The shoulder speakers are pretty sh1te but if you fade most of the sound to the front, they are ok. If you're looking for big sound I would recommend upgrading and amping the front speakers (see other threads that have the word Focal in the title).

Assuming the Pioneer is four channel, you wouldn't need another amp to do this, just send the front pre-out to the amp and send the output to the front speakers whilst bridging the other channel of the amp and sending it to the subs, and leave the shoulder speakers connected via the head units rear speaker cables (assuming the head unit can cope with using pre-outs and speaker cables at the same time which I think most new units can do).

As for what a pre-out is, from my understanding, the speaker cables at the back of the headunit are amplified within the unit and sent directly to the speakers, pre-outs are the signal before it has been amplified (hence a cleaner signal), put onto a line driven by voltage and sent to an external amplifier (which is normally better quality than the internal amp).

[Hurstie1981]

Ive somehow stumbled accross this site, but check out the car hifi section, the speakers seem to be awesome specs, and not bad prices at all!!

http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/ishop/923/shopscr5.html

Graham

[Vindezal]

possible dry joint on pre-out?

[SimonPearse]

I have a pair of focal utopia 5" subs in mdf boxes in the rear 'lockers'. They are more expensive than the JL 6.5's but sound way better.

[stevowaring]

I think I am going to go for a pair of focal utopia 5" subs as well, did you make the boxes yourself, easy to do?

Steve

[SimonPearse]

Not difficult, though in my case I already have some kenwood 6" woofers in the lockers (facing forwards, so it was a little tricky getting enough cabinet volume. I prefer the smoth response of infinite baffle cabinets so I made up sealed mdf boxes with the focals facing upwards. I unscrewed the locker lids, cut along the plastic hinge line and screwed the hinge part back in place. That gives a flat lip all round for the boxes to seat onto. In cross section the boxes are like an inverted top hat, the brim replaces the original locker lid. I lined the boxes with carpet tile and wadding, covered the tops in maplin speaker cloth, and used some maplin grilles over the speaker cones. My cd changer is mounted on the passenger side box and the focals are driven by a phillips DAP 300 amp (just fits under the drivers seat after cutting a hole in the carpet) via a kenwood parametric graphic.
Rest of the system comprises Pioneer premier head unit, Pioneer tuner (passenger side tunnel under the carpet), DAP600 amp for the main speakers (under the passenger seat, hole in carpet + raise the seat 2 mm with washers!), Alpine component speakers in the doors, JBL GTO 5.0 components set into the shoulder positions (surface mounted with the magnets just fitting into the holes where the original speakers were), JBL tweeters on the trim accross the back window, crossovers in the doors amd rear quater pannels, and lots of dynamat. It's all been a tight squeeze!
I have gone for a quality of sound rather than huge bass, and I'm realy pleased with the results, and I can stillfit the T-Bar glass in behind the seats!