Timing belt installation on a Mk1b

[BenF]

Could do with some advice from those that have re-insalled the timing belt on their Mk1b's with the engine in place ..

Basically I've been helping a friend who has a SC replace a failed water pump - after some fun and games it looks like the new pump is on and is water tight now. (The water pump and timing belt are the same between the NA and SC)

But we now need to re-install the timing belt - before it came off we tippexed the cam gears, timing belt and crank positions - we haven't moved any of the cams etc during the removal of the belt.

However, the only way we were able to get the belt off was to remove the gear from the the inlet cam - the tensioner with the spring (and timing 'needle') seemed to be stuck in place, and didn't move- even when the tensioning spring was released, and removed.

What's the best way to get the timing belt back on?

The belt looked to be slack enough to allow us to just able slide it back on, but its not something I really want to do and I think is fairly far from the Toyota BGB 'approved' method of doing things

[Icsunonove]

However, the only way we were able to get the belt off was to remove the gear from the the inlet cam - the tensioner with the spring (and timing 'needle') seemed to be stuck in place, and didn't move- even when the tensioning spring was released, and removed.

Ben, you've simply got to get it free, simple as, no other way.....

Please explain, I don't understand, here's a pic, what's stuck? can't you undo the bolt? or won't the adjustor move even without the bolt in place?

[ldavies83]

that bolt is a pig, 10mm ring spanner does it! but with me it was a nights soak of wd40 that freed it eventually, I even ordered a replacement bolt from MrT, didnt need it eventually, so its going spare! but you will have to slacken that off

[ldavies83]

BTW depending on the mileage, it will be worth replacing the idler pulley anyway Just done my 100k replacement and replaced the waterpump, idler pulley and belts just so I didnt need to do it again for a while!

[Icsunonove]

Leigh, good thing about the SC engine is it's non-interference (presume NA is as well then). So it's not too much faff if it fails!

[MartG]

I was able to use a socket on that bolt when I did mine, as the pointer had to come off anyway for the big SC pulley

You need to get the tensioner freed up, as without it operating properly the timing belt won't be correctly tensioned and could either snap or slip a few teeth - neither of which are good for the engine Once free, you should have no problems refitting the belt.

[ldavies83]

Leigh, good thing about the SC engine is it's non-interference (presume NA is as well then). So it's not too much faff if it fails!

Absolutely right, the NA is a non interferance engine (dont you just love toyota and thinking out of the box for the 80's!) however I wouldnt want to test that principle out when the engines spinning at 7000 rpms

[ldavies83]

I was able to use a socket on that bolt when I did mine, as the pointer had to come off anyway for the big SC pulley

I actually thought about cutting it off, and ordered a replacement bolt from MrT, thankfully it came off with a good heave the morning after

[MartG]

a good heave the morning after

Sounds messy

[BenF]

that bolt is a pig, 10mm ring spanner does it! but with me it was a nights soak of wd40 that freed it eventually, I even ordered a replacement bolt from MrT, didnt need it eventually, so its going spare! but you will have to slacken that off

Cheers Leigh - that was the key to the job.

Looking at the pic that Tom posted above, I thought some wierd and wonderful Torx socket was going to be needed, and molegrips weren't shifting it - but you're right, a 12 sided 10mm ring spanner with a DIY extension freed it off nicely

We got the belt back on, left the idler loose and turned the engine over on the starter to get the belt nicely tensioned again

We pulled the HT lead from the coil to stop the engine starting ... when we started the engine all you could hear was Crack .. Crack ... Crack. The car's owner thought that was the sound of valves being shattered but I could see some imressive 2-3cm long sparks crawling over the top of the ignitor coil through the condensation

Good news is that its all back together again and not leaking - we put the belts and idlers back on (but not the cam covers) and the car seems fine - water system remains pressurised, no coolant leaks.

We've just got to remove the belts, re-install the timing belt covers and the job will be done

Tom - one thing I saw from your photos was that you had the top timing belt cover off - do you run your car like this normally?

[Icsunonove]

Tom - one thing I saw from your photos was that you had the top timing belt cover off - do you run your car like this normally?

No Ben. This photo was taken a few months ago when I was rebuilding the top end after a very bad trackday at Elvington!

[ldavies83]

that bolt is a pig, 10mm ring spanner does it! but with me it was a nights soak of wd40 that freed it eventually, I even ordered a replacement bolt from MrT, didnt need it eventually, so its going spare! but you will have to slacken that off

Cheers Leigh - that was the key to the job.

Looking at the pic that Tom posted above, I thought some wierd and wonderful Torx socket was going to be needed, and molegrips weren't shifting it - but you're right, a 12 sided 10mm ring spanner with a DIY extension freed it off nicely

Glad it helped, I asked the very same question here a couple of weeks ago, and a Torx socket does fit it, however I could get a ratchet behind it Anyway Happy motoring, will that be the beast coming up to anglesey next weekend?