....new condensor is in, haven't had it gassed yet but is there any way of checking the compressor is working before i do?How to test a/c compressor
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How to test a/c compressor
In process of gradually getting my a/c to work.....new condensor is in, haven't had it gassed yet but is there any way of checking the compressor is working before i do?
....new condensor is in, haven't had it gassed yet but is there any way of checking the compressor is working before i do?Re: How to test a/c compressor
As far as i know you can't the clutch won't work when there's no pressure in the system to protect itself
Re: How to test a/c compressor
That's what i was wondering.....so guess i'd best start with some gas!
....so guess i'd best start with some gas!Re: How to test a/c compressor
The clutch will not engage if there is no pressure in the system to save the compressor from possible damage if allowed to run for long time.
The refrigerant flowing around in the system helps cool the compressor down to extend its life as well as transport some of the oil around.
However if you were to unplug the clutch electromagnet wire and say take that to the red connector in the engine bay fuse box that will engage the clutch and the compressor will start to rotate.
Generally the compressor will be ok as long as it has not seized as they are full of PAG oil used in the A/C system lots remains in the compressor so running it for a minute or so should not hurt it, I would not recommend running for longer than a minute thou ells damage could happen.
You will want to get a professional to pull a vacuum in the system and see if it returns to atmosphere pressure as if it does this means you have a leak, if it holds its vacuum the system is ready to pressure test and refill.
You will also want to"bake" your "receiver dryer" in the oven at say 50 Degrease C for a good hour to dry out the desiccant jell inside on the day you get it gassed.
The"receiver dryer" has no doubt absorbed lots of moisture (which is what it is meant to do but in small amounts and in a closed system) as yours has been open to the air for a while so its saturated.
Heating it up causes the water to evaporate out of the desiccant pellets so it can once again absorb moisture or you can buy a new one if you don't fancy sticking it in oven, any unabsorbed moisture in the AC system will freeze and block the thermal expansion valve and stop the AC from working properly/ efficiently.
Receiver dryer is located passenger side wing area, take off the plastic under trays on this side and look up there for a black round cylinder about 50mm in diameter and 250 mm long with 2 pipes going to it.
Typically on the low pressure side of the system there is roughly 140 PSI! on the high side with system running around 220 - 250 PSI ! this also depends on the ambient air temperature outside.
Hence the need to pressure test as under pressure the gas WILL find even the smallest hole and over a few hours or day simply leak out and add to global warming as R134a is not too good as its a HFC!
Once your system is all good run the system at least once a month to spread the oil around to keep the O rings lubed up in the bolt together pipe joints and rubber pipe sections to help the system stay sealed.
I used to install massive refrigeration systems for a living and did do car air con so know it inside out.
The refrigerant flowing around in the system helps cool the compressor down to extend its life as well as transport some of the oil around.
However if you were to unplug the clutch electromagnet wire and say take that to the red connector in the engine bay fuse box that will engage the clutch and the compressor will start to rotate.
Generally the compressor will be ok as long as it has not seized as they are full of PAG oil used in the A/C system lots remains in the compressor so running it for a minute or so should not hurt it, I would not recommend running for longer than a minute thou ells damage could happen.
You will want to get a professional to pull a vacuum in the system and see if it returns to atmosphere pressure as if it does this means you have a leak, if it holds its vacuum the system is ready to pressure test and refill.
You will also want to
"bake" your "receiver dryer" in the oven at say 50 Degrease C for a good hour to dry out the desiccant jell inside on the day you get it gassed.The
"receiver dryer" has no doubt absorbed lots of moisture (which is what it is meant to do but in small amounts and in a closed system) as yours has been open to the air for a while so its saturated.Heating it up causes the water to evaporate out of the desiccant pellets so it can once again absorb moisture or you can buy a new one if you don't fancy sticking it in oven, any unabsorbed moisture in the AC system will freeze and block the thermal expansion valve and stop the AC from working properly
/ efficiently.Receiver dryer is located passenger side wing area, take off the plastic under trays on this side and look up there for a black round cylinder about 50mm in diameter and 250 mm long with 2 pipes going to it.
Typically on the low pressure side of the system there is roughly 140 PSI
! on the high side with system running around 220 - 250 PSI ! this also depends on the ambient air temperature outside.Hence the need to pressure test as under pressure the gas WILL find even the smallest hole and over a few hours or day simply leak out and add to global warming as R134a is not too good as its a HFC
!Once your system is all good run the system at least once a month to spread the oil around to keep the O rings lubed up in the bolt together pipe joints and rubber pipe sections to help the system stay sealed.
I used to install massive refrigeration systems for a living and did do car air con so know it inside out.