MR2 won't start

[Flip1977]

Hi everyone.

I have the age old "my car won't start" problem, but after reading 101 different threads I'm totally confused on the best way forward.

So, back story. UK spec R reg MR2. Second car, so she doesn't get driven much in the winter (but is stored outside). Weather looked good the other week, and jumped in. Drove to work fine, but coming home we had torrential rain and she got very wet feet for an hour/30 miles of motorway, however ran fine all the way home, no dodgy spluttering or misfires or anything. Couple of days later we hopped in her to go out and cranked away to no avail.

Cranks over fine, smells of petrol, so that side is working. I pulled out a spark plug and sure enough, no spark. I read my error codes (I think correctly) and got code 14, and 22. 22 being temp (she was cold when checking, obviously, so I kinda ignored that one) and 14 being no IGF signal and pointing to ignitor and coil, I jumped to the conclusion on coil pack, and bought a new one, popped it in, and same symptoms. Annoyingly I then dropped the old coil and cracked it too, so didn't want to swap back and she had the new one in now, whether she needs it or not!

I then tried to get a touch more methodical. With ignition on and poking a multimeter around:-

• We have 12v on one wire in the plug that goes on the coil
  We have 8-12v on the other wire (slow reacting digital multimeter, so hard to gauge)
  We have 12v coming out of the HT lead socket
  We have 12v coming out of the other end of the HT lead going into the dizzy.
  The dizzy looks clean, dry and tidy, with seemingly no damage.
  I tried a set of jump leads between engine and bolts on the body to add improved earthing, incase it was that.
  Boot is clean and dry, and ECU is the same, all plugs seem solid
  EFI fuse is intact.
  

So, I am thinking the dizzy is ok, as it was fine on the previous trip, and then died and doesn't even TRY to fire, Coil pack is fine now (and probably was before), I'm thinking its something a bit more electrical and final. (By final I mean it's not a misfire or an intermittent problem, its just not working at all)

I was going to look at the ignitor module next, is this something I can test, or should I just spend £40 on an ebay one and throw it in? Anything else I can test or look at replacing first? I don't want to just go on a rampage and replace everything ignition related though! Alternative is if anyone local (Car in Camberley, I work near Leatherhead every day) could lend me an ignitor to try maybe?

Hope someone can help! Many thanks.

[Ryan S]

sounds like the ignitor, I'm pretty sure there's isn't any tests you can do to the ignitor i'm afraid, It's rare that they go but in my case my coil and ignitor went at the same time, the ignitor reeked of electrical fire (if that's any help). replaced both and problem was solved. Maybe somebody local can let you use theirs for a few minutes before you stump up for one, if nothing else at least you will know if that's the problem or not

[2mad]

If you offer some beer tokens .. to someone on the forum in you area (same car) .. sure someone will help you out

[2mad]

Have you checked for spark cranking .

[Flip1977]

Tested for spark cranking by having a spark out and cranking it over - nothing there, is that what you mean? This is what drove me to the coil, but could still be the ignitor.

Obviously if anyone more knowledgeable and local can help me diagnose or lend me an ignitor perhaps, there could be a purple beer token in it for them!

[Ryan S]

Tested for spark cranking by having a spark out and cranking it over - nothing there, is that what you mean? This is what drove me to the coil, but could still be the ignitor.

Obviously if anyone more knowledgeable and local can help me diagnose or lend me an ignitor perhaps, there could be a purple beer token in it for them!

stick up another post asking for a local owner to help, doesn't matter if it's NA or Turbo ignitor, both do the same thing despite having different part numbers

I'm using a NA ignitor on my tubby before any smart arses chime in.

[2mad]

Tested for spark cranking by having a spark out and cranking it over - nothing there, is that what you mean?

Yes thats what meant .. yeah beer tokens a great idea .. hope someone helps you.. best of luck mate

If you were in mk and needed a rev3 turbo part (got a st205 at mo) I would help .. that and i like stella lol and cups of tea

[2mad]

You could always buy a second hand ignitor and resell it if its not the problem .. do you have a Toyota mr2 bgb (i had a download of it) it tells you how to test components with a multimeter .. its very helpful for diagnosing problems .

[Gullzter]

Igniters rarely fail, how do you know the coil is fine?

I would check your coil/igniter bracket is secure for the ground, if it is i would point to the coil as they fill with moist then crack (most seem to happen in coil and wet weather which it is now.
Take the coil off and check if it is split anywhere, thats where i would start if you have checked the rest

[2mad]

I meant coil .. got a bit confused .

[Ryan S]

Ignitors rarely fail but it does happen, don't rule it out!

[2mad]

Like I said if you have a multimeter and a download or cd of the toyota mr2 instruction manual , there diagnostic stuffs spot on.

[Flip1977]

My first guess was the coil, and that has been replaced with a new one (which didn't fix the problem), so I know that is ok now.

I'll see if I can find this MR2 instruction manual, that sounds helpful ta!

The bracket is used as an earth is it? That could be a problem area I guess, may be a dodgy earth?

[2mad]

My first guess was the coil, and that has been replaced with a new one (which didn't fix the problem), so I know that is ok now.

I'll see if I can find this MR2 instruction manual, that sounds helpful ta!

The bracket is used as an earth is it? That could be a problem area I guess, may be a dodgy earth?

Yep sand down where the bracket meets the fire wall (so you have a nice paint free earthing point).. hope that sorts it mate

[SonicSW20]

Considering how relatively cheap things like ignitors, coils etc are, I'd just replace the lot, it seems pretty clear that's where the problem lies. Depends on how quickly you want it back on the road I guess.

[Ryan S]

Considering how relatively cheap things like ignitors, coils etc are, I'd just replace the lot, it seems pretty clear that's where the problem lies. Depends on how quickly you want it back on the road I guess.

have to agree with this, the cars have lasted 20 odd years with that same earthing point, get the ignitor swapped and post back the results.

also check the FM2 fuse in the frunk, mine blew repeatedly when the ignitor went, with that gone there's no power going to the rear fuse box.

[Flip1977]

Seems logical, ok, I'll go with this, thank you! Seems like all of the ebay ones are used. They seem to be the same part number across all models (and as sheppy confirmed by running an NA on a turbo) would I be better off getting one of the plastic bodied looking ones that seem to come from the turbos (and so would be imported, and possibly has a drier life) or a metal one that could be from a import or UK one (or a rav 4 apparently?) Is there any advantage to one or the other that anyone knows of?

Does anyone know how pricey they are new from the stealers or from eurocarparts or equivalent?)

[Ryan S]

Seems logical, ok, I'll go with this, thank you! Seems like all of the ebay ones are used. They seem to be the same part number across all models (and as sheppy confirmed by running an NA on a turbo) would I be better off getting one of the plastic bodied looking ones that seem to come from the turbos (and so would be imported, and possibly has a drier life) or a metal one that could be from a import or UK one (or a rav 4 apparently?) Is there any advantage to one or the other that anyone knows of?

Does anyone know how pricey they are new from the stealers or from eurocarparts or equivalent?)

I'd just buy a new one, the only reason I took a used one as it was that peter sent it to me along with a coil free of charge to test out the problem, it wasn't for longevity. with using the NA one on my turbo i'm almost certain my fuel consumption went down, it may have just been that fuel prices went up in the 2 weeks it was off the road

EDIT: just to add, I think you are getting the ignitor and the coil mixed up,



this is the igniter



and this part is the coil

there is a metal bracket that hold the 2 parts together. chances are it will be gubbed.

[Gullzter]

My first guess was the coil, and that has been replaced with a new one (which didn't fix the problem), so I know that is ok now.

I'll see if I can find this MR2 instruction manual, that sounds helpful ta!

The bracket is used as an earth is it? That could be a problem area I guess, may be a dodgy earth?

Make sure the bracket is tightened up properly, i had the same issue and turned out bracket wasnt tight enough to the body. Could be your issue or could be something else, doesnt cost anything to tighten up

[Flip1977]

Fair point Gullzter...

I have already had the bracket off and given it a clean up and polish, perhaps I'll try running a bit of wire straight from the battery negative to the bracket as a test - at least that will categorically prove the earth is ok. And the coil is new, so that should be fine, all that is then left is the ignitor I guess...

Thanks guys, assuming it's not hissing down on Thursday I'll have a play with the bracket/earth, and see if that gets me anywhere...