Wheel Bearings
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- Posts: 5494
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
- Location: Wickford, Essex
Wheel Bearings
Can you change the rear wheel bearings in situ or does the whole hub have to come off?
Re: Wheel Bearings
Whole hub has to be removed.
When I did mine I took the hub down to my local garage and got them to do it for a few beer tokens.
When I did mine I took the hub down to my local garage and got them to do it for a few beer tokens.
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- Posts: 5494
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
- Location: Wickford, Essex
Re: Wheel Bearings
Right i've got the ball joint bolts undone, removed the driveshaft, undone the tie rod bolt and removed the suspension leg bolts.
What I am having trouble with is the castor threaded bar/nut and the other arm bolted onto that as well.
I need to borrow a long 22mm socket to get the castor nut undone but also need to remove the other end of this bolted to the chassis.
Any ideas?
What I am having trouble with is the castor threaded bar/nut and the other arm bolted onto that as well.
I need to borrow a long 22mm socket to get the castor nut undone but also need to remove the other end of this bolted to the chassis.
Any ideas?
Re: Wheel Bearings
There's no need to touch the lower suspension arms once you've unbolted the ball joint from the upright
Re: Wheel Bearings
It's been a while (and its too dark to nip out and look now) but don't you unbolt the ball joint from the hub leaving the lower suspension arms fully assembled. Then unbolt the hub from the strut. That just leaves the toe link which is the easy one (as long as you leave it attached to the car, otherwise getting it back on can be a pain in the ar$e).
Re: Wheel Bearings
SuperRedMR2 wrote:I need to borrow a long 22mm socket to get the castor nut undone but also need to remove the other end of this bolted to the chassis
Are you intending to polybush the track control arm & trailing arm while you have the hub off Alex ?
If not then you can leave those in situ
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- Posts: 5494
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
- Location: Wickford, Essex
Re: Wheel Bearings
Yes i am peter
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- Posts: 5494
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
- Location: Wickford, Essex
Re: Wheel Bearings
I got a deep socket from Halfords; about £5 IRC
Soaked relevant parts in plusgas & left overnight
A breaker bar is helpful
The bolts at the front end of the trailing arm came out OK with the breaker bar & an ordinary socket set
BUT I read someone saying that his were seized into the bush
Plusgas & breaker bar again
Or heat
Soaked relevant parts in plusgas & left overnight
A breaker bar is helpful
The bolts at the front end of the trailing arm came out OK with the breaker bar & an ordinary socket set
BUT I read someone saying that his were seized into the bush
Plusgas & breaker bar again
Or heat
Re: Wheel Bearings
22m ring wrench + 2 meter long pipe did the trick on mine.
Re: Wheel Bearings
Another vote for a big spanner and bigger bar. Or another big spanner levered in series with the 22mm. Something we call 'the spanner trick'.
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- Posts: 5494
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
- Location: Wickford, Essex
Re: Wheel Bearings
I'm going to save myself £200 by not polybushing it with a 4-wheel alignment as I'm just taking the hubs off for the time being now.
I just want it back on the road so I can use it before the bad weather sets in. It's quite easy taking the hubs off in the end, so i'll do the bushes in the winter
I just want it back on the road so I can use it before the bad weather sets in. It's quite easy taking the hubs off in the end, so i'll do the bushes in the winter